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My first LS1...let the modding begin. Need opinions

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Old 05-17-2009, 11:51 PM
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Default My first LS1...let the modding begin. Need opinions

OK... So first off, I did a lot of reading and really can't find a straight answer. It seems that what I read goes from one extreme to the other.
Here is the background on the car.
Just picked up a 1999 TA A4.
Borla Catback, Yank 3600 stall, Granatelli Mass Airflow Sensor, Fastoys Ramair Induction System, Directflow Airlid with K&N, Eibach springs, Hotchkis Sway Bar, BMR Tubular LCA & Relocation Bracket, BMR Driveshaft Loop
All that said, My original goal was 400RWHP but I see that with the A4 numbers aren't that important. I just want a down right fast DD.
Things that are planned are LTs, ory, cam, and obviously a tune.

My main question is what cam. I want a pissed off sound but I want it to be a good DD at the same time. Any suggestions would be great. I am a newb so take it easy on me.
Thanks in advance guys and girls!
Josh
Old 05-18-2009, 12:08 AM
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Josh if your going to DD that sob, do everything you have planned minus the cam. It'll be plenty fast and you'll be close to that 350 to the wheels. When you start doing head and cam you lose the DDness. I think it's silly to dump a bunch of money in a car to make it go faster but not to fast, because it still has to be a dd. Watch how much power you add too, things start breaking alot faster! That's my 2cents. Happy modding brotha.
Old 05-18-2009, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by weeble1
OK... So first off, I did a lot of reading and really can't find a straight answer. It seems that what I read goes from one extreme to the other.
Here is the background on the car.
Just picked up a 1999 TA A4.
Borla Catback, Yank 3600 stall, Granatelli Mass Airflow Sensor, Fastoys Ramair Induction System, Directflow Airlid with K&N, Eibach springs, Hotchkis Sway Bar, BMR Tubular LCA & Relocation Bracket, BMR Driveshaft Loop
All that said, My original goal was 400RWHP but I see that with the A4 numbers aren't that important. I just want a down right fast DD.
Things that are planned are LTs, ory, cam, and obviously a tune.

My main question is what cam. I want a pissed off sound but I want it to be a good DD at the same time. Any suggestions would be great. I am a newb so take it easy on me.
Thanks in advance guys and girls!
Josh

you wont get a straight answer on here... cam is something you should do a LOT of research on before you choose. ultimately we could pick something out for you, but you might want something more aggressive, or more drivable, etc. One cam that you see a LOT of people using because of the drivability/chopy idle/proven power is the TR 224. its a small cam, but can be make great power.
Old 05-18-2009, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by liquidsmooth
Josh if your going to DD that sob, do everything you have planned minus the cam. It'll be plenty fast and you'll be close to that 350 to the wheels. When you start doing head and cam you lose the DDness. I think it's silly to dump a bunch of money in a car to make it go faster but not to fast, because it still has to be a dd. Watch how much power you add too, things start breaking alot faster! That's my 2cents. Happy modding brotha.
really? No cam huh? hhmmm. Thanks for the input. Definitely something to think about. Thanks
Old 05-18-2009, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 406malibu
you wont get a straight answer on here... cam is something you should do a LOT of research on before you choose. ultimately we could pick something out for you, but you might want something more aggressive, or more drivable, etc. One cam that you see a LOT of people using because of the drivability/chopy idle/proven power is the TR 224. its a small cam, but can be make great power.
I did a little reading on that cam. I want to hear some sound clips on it. Thanks
Old 05-18-2009, 12:49 AM
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Also plan on LS6 intake
Old 05-18-2009, 01:02 AM
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I dont recommend a cam for a DD car or even an ory... but if you do settle for a cam, get a mild one...

My car is not a daily driver, full bolt on makes over 360 rwhp and im still unsure if i should install a cam, because im sure i will be near 400 rwhp... but gotta think of that 10 bolt and a stock clutch... My point is, once you start modding, be prepared to spend a little more cause stock **** might break... and these cars aint exactly brand new
Old 05-18-2009, 01:12 AM
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I see. The one I picked up has relatively low miles (41K). I guess I need to do some thinking. What should I do if no ORY?
Old 05-18-2009, 01:23 AM
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I don't see why a mild cam wouldn't be suitable for a DD. I had a TR 224/224 on a 114 on my old '98 Z28 that made for a VERY good street car, not too bad of an idle and good torque throughout.
Old 05-18-2009, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ARCTIC '00
I don't see why a mild cam wouldn't be suitable for a DD. I had a TR 224/224 on a 114 on my old '98 Z28 that made for a VERY good street car, not too bad of an idle and good torque throughout.
That's kinda what I'm looking for. I don't mind a choppy idle. I know fuel mileage will take a little hit but I'm prepared for that.
Old 05-18-2009, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by weeble1
I see. The one I picked up has relatively low miles (41K). I guess I need to do some thinking. What should I do if no ORY?
Theres no reason to not do ORY, unless you have to pass emission tests. My DD has one, its just a little louder(which is a good thing IMO)
Old 05-18-2009, 09:51 AM
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I'll probably just go ahead and do it when I do the LTs. If I don't like it I'm sure I'll be able to sell it.
Thanks
Old 05-18-2009, 10:03 AM
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I would absolutely do an ORY whether it be a DD or not. Even a cam CAN be suitable for a DD, you just have to do your homework. Driveability is mostly in the tune. I have put together a car with Ported 5.3 heads and a MS3, A4 that was a DD. Just have to find out what you call driveability "issues" and go from there on cam selection. But you can always go custom grind and have Patrick G taylor a cam to your needs and have everything you want.
Old 05-18-2009, 10:05 AM
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Only thing that sucks about an ORY is smelling like fumes when you get out of the car, it's not something i like walking into work. (white collar job)

You'll love the LTs def go for it.
Old 05-18-2009, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SMOKNSS
I would absolutely do an ORY whether it be a DD or not. Even a cam CAN be suitable for a DD, you just have to do your homework. Driveability is mostly in the tune. I have put together a car with Ported 5.3 heads and a MS3, A4 that was a DD. Just have to find out what you call driveability "issues" and go from there on cam selection. But you can always go custom grind and have Patrick G taylor a cam to your needs and have everything you want.
Know anything about prices to have him grind one for me?
Old 05-18-2009, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ynkssws6
Only thing that sucks about an ORY is smelling like fumes when you get out of the car, it's not something i like walking into work. (white collar job)

You'll love the LTs def go for it.
wow... is it really that bad? I was next to a 98 with cam, lts, ory and borla and it didn't smell bad at all. hhhmmmm
Old 05-18-2009, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by weeble1
wow... is it really that bad? I was next to a 98 with cam, lts, ory and borla and it didn't smell bad at all. hhhmmmm
you can smell the fumes with an ory, but unless you are walking around the car constantly for 20 min with the car running, you aren't going to smell like it.
Old 05-18-2009, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by weeble1
That's kinda what I'm looking for. I don't mind a choppy idle. I know fuel mileage will take a little hit but I'm prepared for that.
Then the 224/224 seems like a good choice for you!
Old 05-18-2009, 09:49 PM
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If you want to pick up an extra 40-50 hp get a a high22x-low23x cam and keep the lift around .600. The cost is changing springs much more often. Some say 20k but i just checked mine at 20k and they were OK so I will go 10k more and check and prolly change then...
Old 05-18-2009, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SOMbitch
If you want to pick up an extra 40-50 hp get a a high22x-low23x cam and keep the lift around .600. The cost is changing springs much more often. Some say 20k but i just checked mine at 20k and they were OK so I will go 10k more and check and prolly change then...
That's what I want. How would the sound of that be? Really choppy?



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