WOT TB only opening 84 %...
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WOT TB only opening 84 %...
Ok so i was doing some runs at the drag strip and have my auto tap TB position sensor enabled and noticed even with my carpet out and pedal to the floor 84% is all the TB opened. I have a bored out (82mm) TB. The cable is tight to the point if i make it any tighter it raises my idle. I dont really know how it is connected to the pedal after it uses the cable off the (cruise or TC control the little black thingy). only other thing i could think of is the cam on the TB might be from a truck, and i was wondering if that would be the problem...
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Auto tap is seeing a voltage from the tps. That is all!
This may or may not indicate the true position of the butterfly. Remove the air intake hose and look and check the butterfly manually.
Also Check the voltage from the tps at WOT.
Let us know what you find.
This may or may not indicate the true position of the butterfly. Remove the air intake hose and look and check the butterfly manually.
Also Check the voltage from the tps at WOT.
Let us know what you find.
#15
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2000ws6transam: If your car is a 2000 model as your username implies, then you should have the larger cam on the throttle body. 99-04 trucks and 98-99 f-bodies both use the small cam TB and are interchangeable, so it's possible you may have either one of these. Don't worry about the spring color just measure how tall the throttle cam is and post it up.
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Yes, my car is a 2000. I got the TB from my friend at a dealership. I think he told me it was for a 02 truck, but its been about 3 years ago when i got it. It was still in the plastic and i took it right to my friend at a machine shop who bored it out to around 84 mm. This seems to be a little problem now tho... coming back from the track last Sunday i think i broke the input shaft on my T56. No money to fix it lol so i figured i wouldnt even bother tearing into it! Thanks for all the help and i will measure the cam and post it up when i get back to my car (parked it at my parents they have a huge yard 45 min away)
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Work it from front to back and figure it out. I've seen a
few things hang up the throttle.
Blade, by hand and ruler, can the blade be drawn to dead
center or over? If yes, good. Over, stop-screw or shim.
Under, bump-stop mod. Blade should be held up by idle stop
screw only enough to not-bind. Do not idle "on the blade",
idle relearn will "soak up" the same % range up top as it
"makes up for" at closed.
TB to TCS - if snap-adjuster, snug it.
TCS to pedal - nonadjustable. Take out slack by shim at
pedal arm and/or bending pedal arm to less obtuse angle.
Non-TCS - bend pedal or shim cable end
When you have verified blade travel and pedal draw to
dead open, then measure (scan) your TPS voltage and
verify it's in range (look it up). If TPS voltage is skewed
then slot and adjust TPS for good closed idle voltage.
few things hang up the throttle.
Blade, by hand and ruler, can the blade be drawn to dead
center or over? If yes, good. Over, stop-screw or shim.
Under, bump-stop mod. Blade should be held up by idle stop
screw only enough to not-bind. Do not idle "on the blade",
idle relearn will "soak up" the same % range up top as it
"makes up for" at closed.
TB to TCS - if snap-adjuster, snug it.
TCS to pedal - nonadjustable. Take out slack by shim at
pedal arm and/or bending pedal arm to less obtuse angle.
Non-TCS - bend pedal or shim cable end
When you have verified blade travel and pedal draw to
dead open, then measure (scan) your TPS voltage and
verify it's in range (look it up). If TPS voltage is skewed
then slot and adjust TPS for good closed idle voltage.