jh2586

Hey guys! Here's my story..

I'm a member of the U.S. Army deployed in Iraq. I'll be coming home in early November 2009! With that being said.. you all know that a deployed soldier will usually have a good chunk of $$$ when they get home. My budget however will be nothing greater than $15,000 to spend on a car due to funds needed for college and other things.

I've always been a Ford guy. I've owned several fords to include my last one which was a 2003 Ford Mustang Mach I. I loved that car to death. I believe the Mach I is the ONLY Ford car that you can match up to the LS1 F-Bodies and give them a run for it's money. Then there's the 03-04 cobra.. but that's for the higher-end corvette's range.

Ok now that I've gotten that out of my chest, I am pleased to say that I am slowly but surely converting to a GM fan. I've always loved the F-bodies and had a special place in my heart for them. Why I got a Ford instead of a Chevy/Pontiac? I don't know, but that's the past. So I'm here to look for some advice on what to get. I will definately be getting the 1998-2002 LS1 era. At first I was looking into SS Camaro's and Z28's.. but after doing a bit of research, I'm leaning towards getting a WS6 T/A. I understand that they are practically the same vehicle but I like the way the WS6 looks better than the Camaro's. Also, I believe the WS6's are harder to find and not everyone has them.

Now I need some help in what to look for when the time comes to buy.

1) What mileage is considered "low mileage" or decent enough to not have to worry about a crap load of major maintenance?

2) For the mileage that's considered "low mileage" as mentioned above, what is a good price to pay for a good condition WS6?

3) If I end up purchasing a good WS6 with the right amount of mileage and condition.. what should be my first priorities as far as LIGHT mods go that will not hinder my ability to properly SMOG the vehicle. (Note: I live in California, which is known to have the most smog restriction laws.)

I appreciate any kind of help and advise. I am not looking to get a convertable or an automatic. I want a T-top and a 6-speed. I also want one with leather interior. Thanks guys!

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

1) Ls1's are strong and will easily last into the 100k mark with proper maintenance. also the t56 is strong but an upgraded clutch is needed once you start modding

2) i would say for a really nice ws6 somewher in the 9-12k range for one with light mods and decent mileage

3)i would say full exhaust(headers if possibly) since they make the biggest bolt on difference, air lid, tune and gears and with that youll definetly need good tires but be very careful with the stock 10 bolt and t56, they are known to blow with a few hard launches on the track.

oh and thanks for your service, we truly owe everything we have to the service men and women of the United States

jh2586

First off I'd like to thank you for supporting our troops. We really appreciate it. We couldn't do half the stuff that we do, nor can we survive half the stuff that we go through without you guys.

Ok now down to busniess About that 10 bolt rear end.. when you say it's known to "blow out", are you talking about physically abusing it every single day? Or maybe once in awhile? Or it is FOR SURE to blow out sometime or another? I mean I'm not looking to take it to the track often. Maybe once or twice just to see what my E/T is after I'm satisfied with the light mods that I'll put into it. And you said the T-56 tranny goes out too? Isn't the T-56 in the Viper, Corvette, Cobra etc? So would it go out in those vehicles too? Or is the T-56 in the F-bodies a lower/cheaper version that's prone to go out?

Sorry for the 23932089 questions in that paragraph lol.. I just don't want to buy something that's going to break. Again, I'm new to GM and I don't know how the quality of these cars are. Thanks for any input.

ethomp

Well, when people say they "blow out" i really think it is just from abuse at the track. My brother has owned one of his 98 z28 for 8 yrs now. He has full exhaust and a lid with stock rear end and has taken it to the track twice a year and he ran it on the street daily. It now has 130,000 miles and runs as strong as it did the day he bought it. If you dont go completely crazy with these cars and keep the maintanence up on them....they are bulletproof. Just make sure you go ahead and buy a window motor and keep it in storage....haha. And the TA headlight motors i hear are notorious for going out or breaking too. Luckily i haven't had that problem yet. And as said before, i appreciate you for your service. I'm a civilian worker for the army corps of engineers and i know all the great things ya'll are doing over there. Be safe and come back home to enjoy the wonders of an LS engine

jh2586

Ewwww, the thought of a headlight or window motor going out really turns me off. I guess it's a hit or miss thing. I'm real picky about the cars I buy. I was looking online for some good WS6's, and I've found that for $9k - $12k I can only find ones that are 98-00. There are some exceptions but they all had higher miles (over 100k). Ok so after doing some research, I guess the main difference between the 98-00 and the 01-02 is the LS6 intake manifold on the 01-02's which is not a HUGE upgrade in power. Can anyone second this opinion?

ethomp

^ you are correct with that. and dont let something like a little motor going out put you off from these cars. They are GREAT vehicles...even if i am a little biased. The LS series engines are top shelf. Not to mention, TA's are just sexy...haha. As far as finding a deal, just keep looking. I looked for about 8 months before i found mine on this site. Got it with 23,000 miles for 9,000 dollars. The deals are out there if you look long enough.

jh2586

Yeah I found out the hard way. I've been looking for like 5 months now. Everytime I find one though.. I still have plenty of time left on this deployment to even bother buying it. I like to see every aspect of a car that I buy before I buy it. But now my time is coming soon, only a month and a half left, so I think if I end up finding a good deal, then I can negotiate with it. I'm pretty much set with getting a WS6. Those are just effing sexy!

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

The window motors are a PIA but so what.

I haven't had to deal with the headlight issue yet. And BTW it is usually the nylon gear that strips not a burned out motor. Install a brass gear and be done with it..

My rear was fine until I put drag radials on it and started dead hooking with high 1.6 60's M6 cars are much harder on rears than the A4. Too many powershifts with a T-56 and it is not uncommon for the little 10bolt to go KABOOM

And the T-56 is VERY strong tranny. The clutch will go out with much less power than a T-56. The only real issue with a T-56 is the synchros can be worn on the higher mileage ones.... I have seen a guy in 700hp full weight turbo car trapping low 140's on a stock T-56

These cars have thir flaws but they are addicting

Oh and one last thing. Stock shocks SUCK even when brand new Get some Konis from Sam Strano or at least get his speced revalve Bilsteins if you don't nut up for the Konis. Your car will be much more enjoyable. Since you are trying to stay Cali legal you may want to spend your $$$$ on making it a canyon carver. The suspension mods in sig hard to beat for that..... See my garage to see the stance of Strano springs. www.stranoparts.com/

jh2586

Thanks for the info! I'll check that site out. Oh yeah nice 60' time! I found an SLP performance package for like $2500. It comes with FULL exhaust system, cold air intake system, a tuner, and a few other things.. would that be a great buy?

ethomp

well, i like my SLP exhaust but most people complain about it. the best thing for you to do is go to the gen III exteral engine section and the internal engine section and start scroungin through threads. you'll learn alot about these cars doin that. also, there is a site called ls1sounds.com if you want to hear what different exhaust combos sound like. oh and let me ***** out my car a bit.https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...1-exhaust.html

Bugsy

iTrader: (1)

Stay away from those SLP long tube headers! There are much better options available.

jh2586

What's wrong with the SLP long tube headers? Just wondering.

xephona

iTrader: (4)

They don't fit very well, and limit your ground clearance. That kit is a waste of money, you can buy BETTER parts than they supply, for CHEAPER. As for staying cali legal, well... small loophole with that. I was stationed in Cali for a while, and just got my car registered back in WI where I set my HOR as. Cali emissions cannot touch you then.

jh2586

I wish I can do the same thing as you.. but I'm ETSing in November. No more active duty Army for me. I'll be transferring to the Reserves. So I don't know if that rule will apply. God I hate California emissions.. it's sooo stupid!

Anyhow I was lookin at different posts on peoples' mistakes on modding their cars. I'm deeply looking into it because I obviously don't want to make the same mistakes. I think I might get a nice exhaust system first.

xephona

iTrader: (4)

Not much of a rule actually, the way it worked for me was. Parents were still living in WI, so I sent them the VIN number and had them talk to the DMV, all they had to do was say I was stationed in CA, and needed plates. No questions asked. The military doesnt care what plates you run. And the cops only care that your Insurance, License, and Plates match 2 out of 3.

I.E. If your plates and license are in the same state, or insurance and license are in the same state, etc.

As for modding mistakes. Take them with a grain of salt. Most people consider them mistakes because they do nothing (i.e. smooth bellows). Or they just upgraded that part again later. (i.e. putting an catless Y pipe in, and a year later upgrading to true duels)

As long as you have a general IDEA of what you want to do to the car in the LONG RUN, you won't make any mistakes. Figure out if you want a blower, H/C car, bolt-ons, etc. Then just pick out those parts in advance, and start adding em as you see fit. Exhaust/headers is a good start, so long as you make sure your intake is upgraded too and you are SURE of what exhaust you want done. Headers wont do MUCH if you still have an LS1 manifold.

jh2586

Cool I'll definately try it tonight. The good news is I still have my valid CA Driver License. I'll see if I can get them to do that "smog exempt" rule for me. Because if I can do that.. OMG I can go crazy with the mods.

Oh question.. if I end up putting a s/c on it, what can the stock motor handle as far as boost? I heard around 5-6psi no problem. But I'd like to confirm that.

xephona

iTrader: (4)

That would be a question for the forced induction forum. But it depends on your definition of "stock". the bottom end may handle it, but I have a feeling that you will need to replace the pistons, lifters, springs, etc. Not to mention the 10 bolt rear. I tore mine up on STOCK power... TWICE.

EDIT: Here are a couple quick reads from the FI forum.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lity-list.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...induction.html

jh2586

Cool thanks!

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

when i mentioned the 10 bolt and t56, i meant the combination of the two....the tranny is strong but match the clutch dumps from the t56 to the stock 10 bolt makes it more prone to go out on you. The manual rear came with an Eaton posi unit wheras the automatic rear came with an auburn posi unit which most would say is a little better. autos are also less stressful on the rears. but hell if you dont beat on the car, chances are your not gonna hurt the rear, but if you put tire on it and try and cut a 1.5 60' you WILL be buying a new rear.

good luck on ur search you will find the right car and will make it that much more of a pay off to finally drive it.

TireSm0ke

iTrader: (1)

None of these cars came with an Eaton posi unit, they either came with a Torsen or Auburn, depending on the year. You might be thinking of gear ratios - the m6 cars came with a 3.42 while the a4 cars came with either a 2.73 or 3.23, depending on the option code the car was ordered with (RPO code GU2=2.73,GU5=3.23, GU6=3.42).

As far as mileage goes, these cars can go for a long time, there are many members of this forum with full H/C cars with 150+ miles on a stock bottom end. Dont let the little things like window and headlight motors bother you either, being a TA owner ive dealt with these things and they are not nearly as big of a deal as people here make them out to be. Good luck on your search, and thank you for your service.