LS1PoweredZ28

iTrader: (2)

How often do you guys change your fuel filters, I was thinking about doing mine soon.

Kevin

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

Every 10k miles, 15k max I would say.

onebadz

How hard is it to change your fuel filter, I have been thinking about doing mine for a while. Is their a write up on how to do it. Thanks

Wes

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I agree. 10K is best, 15K is the latest I would ever wait.

It's easy to change, it's a quick disconnect type setup....

LS1PoweredZ28

iTrader: (2)

I have heard that you should let the pressure out of the fuel system. Do you have to do this? What is the best way to let the pressure out?

Kevin

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

You can either let the car sit for about 12-24hours for the fuel system to depressurize on its' own or you can depressurize it. To depressurize it, you'll notice that the system has a valve up in the engine bay on the drivers' side. It usually has a green plastic cap. Just unscrew the cap, and then you'll notice a valve that's similar to what you'd see on a bicycle intertube or your car tires. You would depressurize the system the same way you'd let air out of your tires. You can use the special tool that the Helms manual recommends or you can gently use a small slot headed screw driver. You'll need a jar of some sorts to catch the fuel that will be coming out of the system. It's not much. Just be careful or you can smell like gasoline.

HOTROD98Z

iTrader: (1)

GM recomends every 15k to change the filter. All i did was disconnect the battery, take off the fuel cap and pull the fuel pump fuse, then replace the filter, took like 20mins.

soldier6552

its quick and easy, just let the car be cool and dont even worry about the depressurizing valve; just remove the gas cap and that will do it for the car if is cooled down. just make sure you have some shop rags (fuel leaks from the lines even with it depressurized) you need some needle nosed pliers and a 14mm wrench... or maybe its 15mm. I dont remember just use that with the craftsman wratchet wrench and its a sinch.
-JOSH

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

ive changed mine twice in about 30k.its the easiest thing to do next to changing your air filter.

soldier6552

-JOSH

Colonel

I change mine whenever the fuel pressure at WOT drops. However, except for those rare occasions that I run my LS1 on pine tar or turpentine (man does that stuff have some octane!), I haven't manged to reach this point.

2000WS6Vert

Where is the fuel filter located?

Any particular brand better/worse than another?

Edit: I just found this link.........nevermind!

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...lacement_1.htm

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you will get what you pay for. That's why I went with a Canton Racing GM EFI fuel filter, part number # 25-909. It has a billet case that can be disassembled when you need to inspect or replace the element. It is designed to work in the stock OEM lines and even uses the clips. It is much bigger and flows up to 90 gpm. I discoverd these because I noticed that the car didn't feel its' usual self when I replaced the fuel filter with a parts store brand. I did a fuel pressure check and was able to deduce that it was the fuel filter. These cheap OEM style filters are "iffy" in the quality department. The majority are made on low bid in a foreign sweatshop. I also wanted something that wouldn't collapse from the moisture that is common in pump gas. The Canton Racing unit is $75 for the entire unit, but from then on out the elements are about $5, and that's all that's replaced. Plus, when I decide to let loose in the mods, I didn't want something that could choke me into the poor house because of fuel starvation.

www.cantonracing.com/fuel.cfm#

Colonel

A stock filter straight from GM is my choice. They actually flow quite well (I made well over 500 RWHP with one.)

LS1PoweredZ28

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the Install University link, I hadn't seen that write up.

Kevin

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

While I agree that the Canton is a nice piece that will probably flow better (especially with some serious internal/FI mods going on up front) I think the key was that your car "didn't feel it's usual self" after replacing the stock one with a cheapie parts store filter...did you try/test an actual AC Delco/GM replacement one as well?
I think there's a big difference between it and say a 'no name' brand or even a Purolator etc...like Colonel said, OEM name brand (ie: Motorcraft for my Mustang) fuel filters is all I put in my cars, unless of course a whole new fuel system (blower/turbo/crazy nitrous set up etc.) is required.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

The one that I replaced the OEM unit with was a Delco/Gm unit. I really don't think it's realistic to do a lab test on this. I was looking for a stable quality unit that would be consistent each time I replaced it.Plus, I can inspect the element by disassembling it. I can't with the service replacement types. If I were to do any enhancements to the pwertrain, I have the confidence that fuel filter is up to par on the task. The GM stuff is also made on low bid basis as well, and corners are cut. Look at their service replacement oil filters and such.

LS1LT1

iTrader: (16)

True, and while the Canton (along with the relacement elements) does cost a lot more (but still cheap in the grand scheme of 'modding' costs LOL) it does give you that peace of mind...and even if it's only slightly it still has to flow better I'm sure.
I might consider it.

Colonel

"and even if it's only slightly it still has to flow better I'm sure."

I wouldn't just assume that. Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't. No way to know without flow testing it. You might be surprised to find just how good the stock filter really is. At 525 RWHP I found the stock fuel rails to be a restriction...but not the stock fuel filter.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

I would. As a parts inspector, I am aware of the mentality of the "bottom line" that permeates the auto industry, much less a parts subcontractor. They make these on low bids that are farmed out. They do it on the oil filters, why wouldn't that logic they use prevail in everything. It what's subscribed to in fasteners for the automotive industry. There practically isn't any quality control standards. The issue was not how much horsepower you can squeeze out of your current application, but consistency and a high level of performance that you know to always be there, unit after unit. It's just not, with the OEM style replacements. A fuel filter will not add power, never said that. If a substandard part is used, performance won't be optimal. As I stated earlier, it's not practical or realistic to lab test this. I won't pay for it, because I just don't care.