Newbie with a WS.6
02-10-2010, 11:41 PM
#21
On The Tree
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Didn't think I would start that much **** by talkin about puttin spray on a car. I never said put spray on a completely stock car, but that can be done. I mean it obvious and common sense to me for the basic stuff,,,,,gears, clutch/covertor, LT's, intake, lid, free mods, tune, better tires, blah blah blah. If you want some good advice, do what I do to every car I get. Full tune up, and I mean full. Change all your fluids, filters, plugs, wires, etc. Atleast that way our car is ready to be modded and you will gain a few hp just by doing a tune up.
Upgrading a rear end to a 9 inch or a 12 bolt is just ridiculous to me for a DD. Your car is not going to hook up enough on the street with street tires for it to break the stock 10 bolt. Maybe if you are doing 100mph burnouts all the time like a 16yr old. I'll take a lightly modded car with spray up against a N/A car anyday. Money in the bank, lol!!! So many times I've passed ppl at the top of track right before the eyes. They never see it coming.
But what do I know, I'm not an expert. I just put **** on my car, make it look good and have fun.!!!!!!! Isn't that the point.
Upgrading a rear end to a 9 inch or a 12 bolt is just ridiculous to me for a DD. Your car is not going to hook up enough on the street with street tires for it to break the stock 10 bolt. Maybe if you are doing 100mph burnouts all the time like a 16yr old. I'll take a lightly modded car with spray up against a N/A car anyday. Money in the bank, lol!!! So many times I've passed ppl at the top of track right before the eyes. They never see it coming.
But what do I know, I'm not an expert. I just put **** on my car, make it look good and have fun.!!!!!!! Isn't that the point.
Last edited by WizardofDetailing; 02-10-2010 at 11:46 PM.
02-11-2010, 12:27 AM
#22
Well you are definitely headed in the right direction! I might suggest a Strange S60 over the 9" though. Next would come subframe connectors to keep the frame straight. It takes a lot of restraint to build a car the right way the first time rather than throwing horsepower at it only to realize that its not the way to build a car. I commend you bro! Not many people have the patience.
Maybe if you are doing 100mph burnouts all the time like a 16yr old. I'll take a lightly modded car with spray up against a N/A car anyday. Money in the bank, lol!!! So many times I've passed ppl at the top of track right before the eyes. They never see it coming.
02-11-2010, 01:48 AM
#23
On The Tree
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What do you run?[/QUOTE]
I race an 06 GSXR 1000, 8" stretch, full exhaust, lowered 2.5", 2 down 2 up, pc, 50 shot, air shifter, etc. Cars are just street for me, I only race bikes. You get a lot more bang for your buck. Stock out of the box it went 10.0's, now low 9's.Forever chasing the 8 sec club.
I do plan on sprayin my TA with a lil sneaky pete shot, but don't plan on ever racing it.
I race an 06 GSXR 1000, 8" stretch, full exhaust, lowered 2.5", 2 down 2 up, pc, 50 shot, air shifter, etc. Cars are just street for me, I only race bikes. You get a lot more bang for your buck. Stock out of the box it went 10.0's, now low 9's.Forever chasing the 8 sec club.
I do plan on sprayin my TA with a lil sneaky pete shot, but don't plan on ever racing it.
02-11-2010, 01:59 AM
#24
I race an 06 GSXR 1000, 8" stretch, full exhaust, lowered 2.5", 2 down 2 up, pc, 50 shot, air shifter, etc. Cars are just street for me, I only race bikes. You get a lot more bang for your buck. Stock out of the box it went 10.0's, now low 9's.Forever chasing the 8 sec club.
I do plan on sprayin my TA with a lil sneaky pete shot, but don't plan on ever racing it.
I do plan on sprayin my TA with a lil sneaky pete shot, but don't plan on ever racing it.
I'd take a stout H/C any day over a stock car with spray.
02-11-2010, 07:57 AM
#26
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-11-2010, 09:08 AM
#28
On The Tree
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your post seemed to be talking about your car with spray VS. a NA car.. I'm sure there are plenty of NA cars that would smash your **** in with spray... Mu old white TA wasn't even that stout of a build and it would give you a hell of a run, probably beat you honestly.
I'd take a stout H/C any day over a stock car with spray.
I'd take a stout H/C any day over a stock car with spray.
Holy **** you guys take offense to a juiced car. I race at Thompson, Ohio any chance I get during the summer. SO if you want to talk smack about beating me, then do it there. I'm here for 411 on these cars and other ppl's opinions. Not to have a pissing contest about who's faster. AND no I don't race my car, like previously stated I only race bikes at the track. But I will put juice on my TA this spring and would love to street race a n/a car. Have fun tearing apart my posts.
Please just stop talking 
02-11-2010, 09:40 AM
#30
So none of these N/A cars would benefit from a little juice? Obviously there are a **** ton on n/a cars out there that can beat me, duh. Never said I was the fastest car around nor did I implie I was. I just stated that I (IMO) would like to have spray. I think its a great power adder, and if you use it right it can add a lot of punch to your throttle. I've won with spray and lost by it.
I'd like to see a video of that. Plenty of nice street cars think they are fast as hell til they get to the track. Track racing and street racing are night and day. Don't be like a Mustang that says he runs 12's and actually runs high 13's. But yes I agree, all the hp in the world does you no good if you can't get it to the ground.
Holy **** you guys take offense to a juiced car. I race at Thompson, Ohio any chance I get during the summer. SO if you want to talk smack about beating me, then do it there. I'm here for 411 on these cars and other ppl's opinions. Not to have a pissing contest about who's faster. AND no I don't race my car, like previously stated I only race bikes at the track. But I will put juice on my TA this spring and would love to street race a n/a car. Have fun tearing apart my posts.
I'd like to see a video of that. Plenty of nice street cars think they are fast as hell til they get to the track. Track racing and street racing are night and day. Don't be like a Mustang that says he runs 12's and actually runs high 13's. But yes I agree, all the hp in the world does you no good if you can't get it to the ground.
Holy **** you guys take offense to a juiced car. I race at Thompson, Ohio any chance I get during the summer. SO if you want to talk smack about beating me, then do it there. I'm here for 411 on these cars and other ppl's opinions. Not to have a pissing contest about who's faster. AND no I don't race my car, like previously stated I only race bikes at the track. But I will put juice on my TA this spring and would love to street race a n/a car. Have fun tearing apart my posts.
Take it to the track buddy. The rest of us Clevelanders don't need more **** laws from people street racing here. We just fought against one last year and don't need another person to ruin it for the rest of us. It's strict enough as it is around here
mark jr.
OP, Like others have said, build the base of the car first. If you aren't a track regular, maybe some smaller suspension mods like Poly ended LCA's, panhard and torque arm. It will improve your suspension w/out breaking the bank, and is nice for a DD. The stock LCa's and panhard are garbage stamped u channel. Possible some weld in subframe connectors to stiffen up the car. You can get a lot for your $$ looking through the classifieds for used parts. It's no fun building the power only to break the stock stuff. Sure it's nice to say "yeah, I have 400hp" But if you can't hook, who cares?
Last edited by BlackDuk98; 02-11-2010 at 10:03 AM.
02-11-2010, 10:13 AM
#31
To get back to the OP, i agree with BlueKnight.
$2-3k will give you all your basic boltons (LT's, ory (or cats if you want), CB, lid, ls6 intake) and some suspension parts.
Even with stainless headers, like Kooks, and spending the money on a full catback that's under $2k. That leaves with over $1k for suspension. In this case I'd suggest some good shocks, sways, LCA's, PHB, and some RB's for your LCA's. This will help with traction, give you a good ride on the street, and make your car corner a lot better (if that's what you're into) while still staying in budget.
$2-3k will give you all your basic boltons (LT's, ory (or cats if you want), CB, lid, ls6 intake) and some suspension parts.
Even with stainless headers, like Kooks, and spending the money on a full catback that's under $2k. That leaves with over $1k for suspension. In this case I'd suggest some good shocks, sways, LCA's, PHB, and some RB's for your LCA's. This will help with traction, give you a good ride on the street, and make your car corner a lot better (if that's what you're into) while still staying in budget.
02-11-2010, 10:49 AM
#32
On The Tree
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just live and work in Cleveland, would never call myself a Clevelander. And it's not the street racing thats a problem, it's all the fukin laws the man is putting on us. And the jackass's that just stomp throttle off every light. Theres a time and place for everything. Where do you think racing started, at a track? Either you all are too dam old, or you're just hipocritical. You never raced another car off a light before on the street? Gimme a break! WHy even have an LS1 as a DD, much less modd it. Ok I'm done with this thread, it's obvious what the guy needs to do to his ride. May the car gods bless his car with all kinds of horsepower and traction. Peace to everyone.
I'll stop talking when I die.
I'll stop talking when I die.
02-11-2010, 02:34 PM
#33
So none of these N/A cars would benefit from a little juice? Obviously there are a **** ton on n/a cars out there that can beat me, duh. Never said I was the fastest car around nor did I implie I was. I just stated that I (IMO) would like to have spray. I think its a great power adder, and if you use it right it can add a lot of punch to your throttle. I've won with spray and lost by it.
Point being is a car built for NA might only pick up .4 off of a 100 shot where a nitrous car will pick up a full second. So in the end they could be running the same times.. My NA build car was capable of the same times as most sprayed cars with H/C.. It wouldn't run too much faster on a 100 hit because I was already going really quick.
02-11-2010, 03:22 PM
#34
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Shillington PA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yea im just looking to get around 400hp at the flywheel, i will not run slicks on the car. it will always have nice street tires on it. and i might go to the strip 3-5 times a year. i dont want hurt anything in the rear with a cam swap though. im going to have this car for a long time and i dont plan on driving hard that often. but it will be my sweet ride for work everyday.
One more thing... You stated you will be getting an M6, if thats the case, skip the 3.73 gears and go 4.10's. The 6th gear is so long that its about worthless unless you have 4.10's, and my gas mileage has actually gone UP since i swapped gears because I can cruise around town in 6th. On the highway I still only sit around 2k at 70.
02-11-2010, 03:26 PM
#35
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Shillington PA
Posts: 1,775
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Didn't think I would start that much **** by talkin about puttin spray on a car. I never said put spray on a completely stock car, but that can be done. I mean it obvious and common sense to me for the basic stuff,,,,,gears, clutch/covertor, LT's, intake, lid, free mods, tune, better tires, blah blah blah. If you want some good advice, do what I do to every car I get. Full tune up, and I mean full. Change all your fluids, filters, plugs, wires, etc. Atleast that way our car is ready to be modded and you will gain a few hp just by doing a tune up.
Upgrading a rear end to a 9 inch or a 12 bolt is just ridiculous to me for a DD. Your car is not going to hook up enough on the street with street tires for it to break the stock 10 bolt. Maybe if you are doing 100mph burnouts all the time like a 16yr old. I'll take a lightly modded car with spray up against a N/A car anyday. Money in the bank, lol!!! So many times I've passed ppl at the top of track right before the eyes. They never see it coming.
But what do I know, I'm not an expert. I just put **** on my car, make it look good and have fun.!!!!!!! Isn't that the point.
Upgrading a rear end to a 9 inch or a 12 bolt is just ridiculous to me for a DD. Your car is not going to hook up enough on the street with street tires for it to break the stock 10 bolt. Maybe if you are doing 100mph burnouts all the time like a 16yr old. I'll take a lightly modded car with spray up against a N/A car anyday. Money in the bank, lol!!! So many times I've passed ppl at the top of track right before the eyes. They never see it coming.
But what do I know, I'm not an expert. I just put **** on my car, make it look good and have fun.!!!!!!! Isn't that the point.
a 9 inch for a daily would be fantastic, from the factory these cars have enough power to break the toothpick rear we have. Auto's tend to hold up fine for a while, while 6 speeds are on borrowed time... unless you can make a sandwich between your shifts.
02-12-2010, 12:04 AM
#36
Hey Tony. Big Brother here. After reading this thread I have a few points to make. First.. Please don't hijack this thread with infighting! My little bro is humbly asking for help here. Nitrous is NOT an option that he is even considering so please take the cat-fight somewhere else. I can't believe I just wasted that much time reading all that over-reactive, "you hurt my feelings" and "my car is faster than yours". Can we help a brother out??? Well, ok, my brother anyway. 
Here's my advice and explanation for those who will, undoubtedly, dispute me.
Tony, let me reflect upon your intended use for the car for a sec... DD, occasional street race / showing off etc. , almost daily foot-to-the-floor episodes but probly no more than 5 times per day and not more than 8 or 9 seconds each on average, minimal cruising around town at slow speeds trying to impress the chicks with your cars exhaust signature, and maybe 20 - 25 passes down the quarter-mile at a well-prepared race track. If that's pretty close then here's my recommendations:
1. FORGET THE REAR END UNTIL AND UNLESS IT BREAKS! Reasons... The car has undergone similar use for 128,000 miles and has had DRAG RADIALS on it for the last 15,000 miles and it checked out great at the dealer inspection. It will not receive anywhere near the punishment from you that it has already endured. The street tires you are putting on it will not stress the rear-end nearly as much at 400 hp as it already has been stressed by it's current hp level when the power was being layed down via super stickies!
2. You already have a lid. I don't know how good it is but with the minimal differences in hp between aftermarkets it would likely be money better spent somewhere else.
3. Get better brakes first! After having 5 F-bodies I can tell you 2 things.. 1. They go really fast, really fast and can kill you! 2. Stock brakes suck. The rotors warp after a couple hard stops from as little as 70 mph and after that you will be afraid to use them hard. That can kill you too. In these cars you have to feel just as comfortable about slamming the brake pedal to the floor as you do the gas. SLOTTED AND DOTTED BRO, ONLY WAY TO GO!
4. Mild Suspension upgrades. You have a decent set-up with the ws6 package that should easily meet your needs unless you have a road-racing habit I don't know about. The dealer inspection revealed that the entire suspension is in "great shape" so You may just wanna consider poly bushings and one or two minor things that will "slightly" improve traction. Remember that this will be your fun car and not you RACE car.
5,6,7,and 8. I would do them together. Long Tubes, y pipe, catback and LS7 clutch. LT's will wake up your beast real quick but might be all that's needed to push a stock clutch over the edge. I think you may be ok on the slave cylinder but I'm not sure. (Anyone??)
Now, I think all the money is spent and should probly just apologize now for giving you the bug! After you do all those things would be a good time to worry about ordering a tune but I agree with the above statement that you won't need a dyno-tune. A good shop should only charge you a hundred or two for a good tune and yes, you can always get one thru the mail.
Now I must say this... You know me so you know I forgot at least two or three things during my considerations and even though I think I know it all I realize (everybody else) that I really don't. Enjoy the car but remember ALWAYS that your wife and Kyle NEED you to make it home.
DISCLAIMER: The preceeding opinions are not a paid advertisement but simply opinions and are likely to be short-sighted, limited-experience based observations of a certifiable LS1 junkie. They are not to be construed as credible or endorsed by LS1 Tech, it's members, visitors or anyone for that matter. All complaints should be hand-written, spell-checked, typed, double-checked and then re-typed by preferably a female with no oil under her fingernails, before being stuffed in a stamped, self-addressed envelope and promptly sent to the only person who cares.
Here's my advice and explanation for those who will, undoubtedly, dispute me.
Tony, let me reflect upon your intended use for the car for a sec... DD, occasional street race / showing off etc. , almost daily foot-to-the-floor episodes but probly no more than 5 times per day and not more than 8 or 9 seconds each on average, minimal cruising around town at slow speeds trying to impress the chicks with your cars exhaust signature, and maybe 20 - 25 passes down the quarter-mile at a well-prepared race track. If that's pretty close then here's my recommendations:
1. FORGET THE REAR END UNTIL AND UNLESS IT BREAKS! Reasons... The car has undergone similar use for 128,000 miles and has had DRAG RADIALS on it for the last 15,000 miles and it checked out great at the dealer inspection. It will not receive anywhere near the punishment from you that it has already endured. The street tires you are putting on it will not stress the rear-end nearly as much at 400 hp as it already has been stressed by it's current hp level when the power was being layed down via super stickies!
2. You already have a lid. I don't know how good it is but with the minimal differences in hp between aftermarkets it would likely be money better spent somewhere else.
3. Get better brakes first! After having 5 F-bodies I can tell you 2 things.. 1. They go really fast, really fast and can kill you! 2. Stock brakes suck. The rotors warp after a couple hard stops from as little as 70 mph and after that you will be afraid to use them hard. That can kill you too. In these cars you have to feel just as comfortable about slamming the brake pedal to the floor as you do the gas. SLOTTED AND DOTTED BRO, ONLY WAY TO GO!
4. Mild Suspension upgrades. You have a decent set-up with the ws6 package that should easily meet your needs unless you have a road-racing habit I don't know about. The dealer inspection revealed that the entire suspension is in "great shape" so You may just wanna consider poly bushings and one or two minor things that will "slightly" improve traction. Remember that this will be your fun car and not you RACE car.
5,6,7,and 8. I would do them together. Long Tubes, y pipe, catback and LS7 clutch. LT's will wake up your beast real quick but might be all that's needed to push a stock clutch over the edge. I think you may be ok on the slave cylinder but I'm not sure. (Anyone??)
Now, I think all the money is spent and should probly just apologize now for giving you the bug! After you do all those things would be a good time to worry about ordering a tune but I agree with the above statement that you won't need a dyno-tune. A good shop should only charge you a hundred or two for a good tune and yes, you can always get one thru the mail.
Now I must say this... You know me so you know I forgot at least two or three things during my considerations and even though I think I know it all I realize (everybody else) that I really don't. Enjoy the car but remember ALWAYS that your wife and Kyle NEED you to make it home.
DISCLAIMER: The preceeding opinions are not a paid advertisement but simply opinions and are likely to be short-sighted, limited-experience based observations of a certifiable LS1 junkie. They are not to be construed as credible or endorsed by LS1 Tech, it's members, visitors or anyone for that matter. All complaints should be hand-written, spell-checked, typed, double-checked and then re-typed by preferably a female with no oil under her fingernails, before being stuffed in a stamped, self-addressed envelope and promptly sent to the only person who cares.
02-12-2010, 12:19 AM
#37
I forgot.. then save more money because with those miles, those mods and your right foot it shouldn't be more than a couple years before she starts getting a little tired. So spend another few grand and get her rebuilt with a cam, springs etc, a little head work, and supporting bolt ons to finish it off. Then you are set. Crap!!! Something else I forgot. When you do 5,6,7, and 8 above go for the gears too. 3.73 s should do. I think anything more is just more wear and tear on the drivetrain and more stress on the rear. Not to mention you would always be shifting. rr shift, rrr shift, rrrr shift.. know what i mean?? more shifts = more missed shifts. lol
02-12-2010, 12:29 AM
#38
another thing.. when you get the tune I don't recommend getting the rev limiter set much higher than stock as your valve springs might be too tired for that and you don't want those kinda problems. Save that for after the rebuild!
02-12-2010, 05:59 AM
#40
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok. so this is what i have in mind for my start of the build. i took a lot of advice from all of you and i think this is probably the best way for me to start off after just purchasing the 2000 Trans am.
1 x UMI Lower Control Arms Rear (Tubular Non-Adjustable)
1 x UMI Panhard Rod (On-Car Adjustable) Poly Ends
1 x UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Bolt-In
1 x UMI Front Sway Bar 35mm
1 x UMI Rear Sway Bar 22mm
1 x UMI Torque Arm Non-Adjustable (Transmission Mounted)
1 x UMI Shock Tower Brace (Chrome Moly)
1 x BMR Spring Kit 1" Drop (Front & Rear Springs)
1 x SLP Smooth Bellow (98-02 Camaro/Firebird)
1 x Strange Pro-Street Gears 3.73 Ratio (7.5" 10 Bolt)
1 x ARP Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
1 x GM LS7 Clutch
1 x GM LS7-LS2 Flywheel
1 x DynoMax Bullet Muffler 3" Inlet-16.5" Long
1 x PaceSetter LS1 Off Road Y-Pipe
1 x PaceSetter LS1 Long Tube Headers Coated 00-02
(AIR/EGR) (includes NGK TR5 sparkplugs / MSD wires.)
looks like my total for all of this is coming to about $2,650.00. that seem about right guys?
1 x UMI Lower Control Arms Rear (Tubular Non-Adjustable)
1 x UMI Panhard Rod (On-Car Adjustable) Poly Ends
1 x UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Bolt-In
1 x UMI Front Sway Bar 35mm
1 x UMI Rear Sway Bar 22mm
1 x UMI Torque Arm Non-Adjustable (Transmission Mounted)
1 x UMI Shock Tower Brace (Chrome Moly)
1 x BMR Spring Kit 1" Drop (Front & Rear Springs)
1 x SLP Smooth Bellow (98-02 Camaro/Firebird)
1 x Strange Pro-Street Gears 3.73 Ratio (7.5" 10 Bolt)
1 x ARP Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
1 x GM LS7 Clutch
1 x GM LS7-LS2 Flywheel
1 x DynoMax Bullet Muffler 3" Inlet-16.5" Long
1 x PaceSetter LS1 Off Road Y-Pipe
1 x PaceSetter LS1 Long Tube Headers Coated 00-02
(AIR/EGR) (includes NGK TR5 sparkplugs / MSD wires.)
looks like my total for all of this is coming to about $2,650.00. that seem about right guys?