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Old 02-15-2010, 04:19 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by prokilllsx
Oh well forgive me my idiotic mistakes! Let's see.. what I really meant to say was "you need to get better brakes. I hear that slots and dimpling help with heat dissipation thereby minimizing pad wear and more importantly reduce the brake fade and pad deflection associated with overheating and rotor warpage that is common on these cars.
I hope that is less idiotic. See my concern was that my brother be safe, NOT to debate which aftermarket solution is best. JACKASS. You must be one of those dumbshits that loses 15,000 dollars on every car that you put together wrong, break, sell and then try again much to the detriment of your wife and children who would much prefer to live in a house rather than a trailer over you dick-measuring with your car that's not as fast or well built as the one blowing your doors off at the track.
With that said, I guess you have counted the "countless" that have broken stock rears, on street tires with 400 hp. Well, while you are at it and before you continue to make us both look like asses, please count the countless people with over 400 hp a stock rear and street tires that have not broken their rears. As far as the lid goes... does he not have an aftermarket lid? That was my only point. If he does and it sucks compared to xyz that he can get for $____ please feel free to enlighten us.
Suspension... What part of "this is my DD" did you not understand? He will not be taking it to the track regular. He will be driving it. Doing things like taking curves instead of just seeing how good of a sixty foot he can brag about. If he cared about what you care about I would say go for the rear end but he doesn't. Don't think that everybody uses their car just like you do yours. Maybe you should read his original post again. He clearly said, he is never going to put drag radials on it. Right now, he'd be lucky to put 315 to the rears, he has three grand to spend. Put it all in a rear end he doesn't need, sure, whatever the experts say. As far as the 3.73s go.. What was I thinking? With my m6 226/226 cam, tune and 3.42s my drivability was great and the thing knocked down 30 on the highway so you're right... Why even replace them? He's not looking for 11's anyway. Oh and maybe he forgot to say it but he won't be POWER-SHIFTING it either. That's something wreckless or desperate people do that commonly does things like....break rear-ends on a 2-3 shift at 6,400 rpm "on street tires". I hear donuts are good for it too. Tony isn't stupid, desperate or wreckless.
I guess if my car was the most important thing in my life I might think more like you do.
Btw.. why are you all hating so much? Didn't you read my disclaimer?!?!
When I broke my rear I was NOT powershifting, nor have I ever powershifted, and yes i was on STREET tires. Puny 245 pos streets. Not even the 315 you mention in another post. not drag radials, not slicks... shitty street tires. I was just running through the gears, and it went POW.

Also. yes... you will want 4.10's. I checked on the highway on my drive today and at 60 mph its barely over 1500 rpms. a stock 3.23 auto will be higher than that at 60.

I think its idiotic that your brother made a thread to ask people that actually know a thing or two about these cars, and you come in here and say we are all wrong.
Old 02-15-2010, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 406malibu

i think its idiotic that your brother made a thread to ask people that actually know a thing or two about these cars, and you come in here and say we are all wrong.
Old 02-16-2010, 05:27 PM
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Me having my own opinions is not the same thing as calling anyone else wrong and when it comes to having thick skin you all should practice what you preach. I got called an idiot for incorporating Tony's real-world driving style into the recommendations I made and throwing in a little of my own experience. The individual that said he WILL break the rear is more than likely not psychic and neither is anyone else on here, myself included. I know there are those who break stock rears without much effort AT THE TIME THAT THEY BREAK but that really doesn't figure in too much here. Another important factor is how it has been treated before it breaks. Right now the car he is buying has a perfectly good rear in it and he will not likely test it to the level it already has been so I THINK he would be best to spend his money on brakes, suspension and bolt on's. Just my opinion. I'm not calling anyone wrong and certainly wouldn't assume that I'm right. It's just what I'd do and I don't have a history of breaking too much. I've had five cars with the same rear and abused most of them Two of them were over 400 hp and the weakest links I found were the slave cylinder on the 98 formula and the sprag ? in the 700R4 of my 87 Trick flow headed, 350 firebird.
In the end, please continue to give Tony good advice. He will take it into consideration and I don't doubt that it will be given plenty of weight as he makes his decisions on how to make his car run, handle and stop better and of course, be more durable. Thanks. Oh and if you really think I think that I'm smarter than you please read again the disclaimer in my first post.

Last edited by prokilllsx; 02-17-2010 at 11:07 PM. Reason: spelling




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