OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

Ahem. I ain't always the brightest bulb in the box, but this weekend I went ahead and swapped pads/rotors. I also used a mityvac to bleed about a QUART of green/black fluid out of the system

My fluid procedure was this: Fill res. to the top, cap it, and bleed out til it reached the max fill mark. It NEVER got lower than that on fluid, bleeding 3/4 corners. (The Driver's side front, the bleeder screw was rusted and stripped.)

So, I test drive the car. I did the basic pad brake in, drove about a mile and a half, got to ~35, and made a moderate, steady stop. I did this 7 times over that mile.

The brake pedal STILL has not recovered its feel, and I had to pump a little bit.

I pull back up to the house, smelling warm brakes. It's not BAD, but it was enough to make me triple check.

Sure enough, my driver's side rotor up front looks.... blue.

There is no leaking fluid on the rims, at all.

So, here's what I got...

-No pedal pressure after 40+ pumps with the car running, fluid level full.
-extremely warm front rotors
-No fluid leakage
-No brake warning lights

Is there something on the ABS system I need to check/reset? I will buy calipers no problem, but I want to make sure that's my issue before I **** off the wife.

blk/slvr02ss

iTrader: (21)

Take the calipers and spray some PB Blaster or WD-40 inside the boot around the caliper piston and that should free it.Sometimes the piston freezes when u do pads.

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

Are you talking about the pins or the actual piston? I don't want to introduce PB blaster into my brake fluid.

blitzace12

iTrader: (1)

it could be that the pins are frozen. Check the boot on the piston and pins for damage. Then take some lube to the pins. If the rotors went blue they are probably shot lol. See if there are any heat marks. Did the pistons slide back in when you put the c-clamp on them?

OMGWTFBODY

iTrader: (5)

Pistons slid in just fine up front. The boots looked fine.

I've ordered a set of calipers.