Looking for advice on street build
#21
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I definitely only want to take it one step at a time. I want to get suspension stuff done first definintely because I've never owned a car faster than 0-60 in 9.0 so going to 0-60 in 6.0 is going to be a blast. My goal is to get this car into the mid 12s.
#22
Staging Lane
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've been talked into the torquer by my friend Chris.. sounds like a great setup for a street car. How is the weather where you live? I know DDing my SS is going to be tough in the snow. but I feel like you must be one of the lucky people that it's sunny all year round.
#23
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Haha, I wish. I'm in Kansas. It's not TOO bad but it's snowy from December to February.
Also, I read that ANY cam would provide at least minor improvements to torque over the stock cam in the 1-2k rpm range. Especially when coupled with aftermarket heads, intake and exhaust so I may just go as big as I can without too much overlap so something around a 234 118lsa cam or a 113lsa 224 cam. Or a 218 110lsa cam. I want to keep overlap between -10 to 0 degrees. This way I won't need to downshift to pass someone on the highway and I can still rip hard all the way to 6k rpm.
Also, I read that ANY cam would provide at least minor improvements to torque over the stock cam in the 1-2k rpm range. Especially when coupled with aftermarket heads, intake and exhaust so I may just go as big as I can without too much overlap so something around a 234 118lsa cam or a 113lsa 224 cam. Or a 218 110lsa cam. I want to keep overlap between -10 to 0 degrees. This way I won't need to downshift to pass someone on the highway and I can still rip hard all the way to 6k rpm.
#24
Staging Lane
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Better than up here in Montana, I'm going on my 3rd winter with a Camaro and my 1st winter with a V8. Should be getting snow here within the next month or so.
from what I know about cams, that's correct. And aftermarket heads will definitely help with that. your first post said you're getting full exhaust first correct? Cause I wouldn't even think about a cam until that's all on.
from what I know about cams, that's correct. And aftermarket heads will definitely help with that. your first post said you're getting full exhaust first correct? Cause I wouldn't even think about a cam until that's all on.
#25
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, I WAS going to do exhaust first but being a convertible it really needs the suspension tightened up so it will be able to get good grip from a dig.
Exhaust definitely coming on before a cam.
Since the stock cam already provides a lot of torque, and even big aftermarket cams provide some sort of improvement to stock cams, then I'm going big.
Hopefully I can hit 450rwhp.
Exhaust definitely coming on before a cam.
Since the stock cam already provides a lot of torque, and even big aftermarket cams provide some sort of improvement to stock cams, then I'm going big.
Hopefully I can hit 450rwhp.
#26
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (71)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Id suggest a custom grind cam, also Im not sure on the 104mm lids but my Fast Toys lid(cant remember what size it was but smaller than 104mm) fit like crap on my WS6. I hate the entire lid setup on these F bodies. You will need headers for the cam to really make power. My opinion has always been the most important thing about building ln lsx car is a good tuner.
#27
Staging Lane
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, I WAS going to do exhaust first but being a convertible it really needs the suspension tightened up so it will be able to get good grip from a dig.
Exhaust definitely coming on before a cam.
Since the stock cam already provides a lot of torque, and even big aftermarket cams provide some sort of improvement to stock cams, then I'm going big.
Hopefully I can hit 450rwhp.
Exhaust definitely coming on before a cam.
Since the stock cam already provides a lot of torque, and even big aftermarket cams provide some sort of improvement to stock cams, then I'm going big.
Hopefully I can hit 450rwhp.
The quote I've heard a few times recently: "the only thing guys who get a cam regret is that they didn't go bigger" At first I was looking at a 224 or 228 cam from TSP, but I'm going with your thinking, bigger is better!
I'm sure with everything you want to do H/C/I exhaust you should be at or pretty damn close to 450 rwhp
#28
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I still want to stick with a 118LSA. I'm not going to change that. However I'm thinking something along the lines of 230/236. The only thing I'm really worried about is piston to valve clearance since I want to go with XFI lobes. I also don't know much about pushrod length but the tuner I'm going to see knows everything about that stuff.
As for exhaust, I'm looking at getting a 3" Y pipe and an electric exhaust cut out as close to the headers as possible so I can close it for quiet rides and open it to really roar.
Ideally I'd like 2 cut outs before the Y connects for even better flow.
As for exhaust, I'm looking at getting a 3" Y pipe and an electric exhaust cut out as close to the headers as possible so I can close it for quiet rides and open it to really roar.
Ideally I'd like 2 cut outs before the Y connects for even better flow.
#29
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Call one of the dealers Matt or Trevor at TSP, tell them what head and cam combination that you want, and they'll give you the whole run down. I know you're stuck on the 118 lobe sep, but I'd bring it down to no more than 114 imho. That's just me, again, do what you want.
450 with a head cam and intake m6 is doable.
Push Rod Length, I used 7.4.
450 with a head cam and intake m6 is doable.
Push Rod Length, I used 7.4.
#30
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will give them a call tomorrow! I have to say, this is the best community I've ever joined when it comes to motor tech.
Edit:
At this point I'm looking at 224/224 113+2 lsa .609"/.609"
or a
230/236 118+2 lsa .612"/.615"
or
236/236 118+0 lsa .615"/.615"
Which one would have closer to a peak torque of 3,500 rpm?
Edit:
At this point I'm looking at 224/224 113+2 lsa .609"/.609"
or a
230/236 118+2 lsa .612"/.615"
or
236/236 118+0 lsa .615"/.615"
Which one would have closer to a peak torque of 3,500 rpm?
Last edited by Inetba; 10-14-2011 at 12:14 AM.
#31
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Geoff at ESP has a cam alot of people love for the 346 i think its like a 222/226 that him and Pat G designed together.
Ditch the 100mm MAF and just go SD, My tuner talked me out of it and it was one less part to buy. Also the 104 lid is necked FOR the 100maf so if you run without it get the 98mm lid, I didn't know this and had to hack mine up.
I would also look at the Chris1313 ram air VS the fast toys one.... i think its a much better unit and if i didn't already have my FTRA i would choose this one, its larger and seals much better.
As for the LSA i know you said your dead set on it and a custom cam can be ground on any LSA but a 114 might be a better choice I want to say that's Tony Mamo's preferred LSA for street cars.
P.S. welcome to Tech and I hope you have deep pockets it adds up FAST
Ditch the 100mm MAF and just go SD, My tuner talked me out of it and it was one less part to buy. Also the 104 lid is necked FOR the 100maf so if you run without it get the 98mm lid, I didn't know this and had to hack mine up.
I would also look at the Chris1313 ram air VS the fast toys one.... i think its a much better unit and if i didn't already have my FTRA i would choose this one, its larger and seals much better.
As for the LSA i know you said your dead set on it and a custom cam can be ground on any LSA but a 114 might be a better choice I want to say that's Tony Mamo's preferred LSA for street cars.
P.S. welcome to Tech and I hope you have deep pockets it adds up FAST
#32
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where can I find the Chris1313 ram air? Also it may add up fast but not nearly as fast as trying to speed up a 4 cylinder! Trust me, I have one! Maybe if we had ridiculous 5.2 gears but there's no fun when you top out at 130mph. I already dropped 6k+ on that car only to realize it's hopeless. I cut my losses and now I'm going to by my friend's grandfather's TA. He kept it BONE STOCK so the first thing I'm going to do is dyno it, and then tune it and dyno again so we can see how much the stock everything can pump out with a good tuner. The car isn't a WS6 so it has the plain hood. After I give it the stock tune though, it's all going to change. As for everything adding up fast, I'm going to save up a good $10k before I buy the car to pay for most if not all of the suspension and intake/exhaust stuff so the car can really breathe! Then it's going to be dyno tuned again! Expect a lot of dyno sheets from me in the future! If I change anything? DYNO SHEET!
#33
10 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I would not do fast 102 intake upgrades before I did anything else. I would start with 1 7/8 longtubes y pipe and catback before anything that will produce the biggest power gains other than a cam or heads. the ls6 intake you have is a pretty good unit already. I wouldnt get the fast till you do a cam because i think the 102 on a stock motor wont see much gains for the 1000 plus dollars it costs
#34
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Where can I find the Chris1313 ram air? Also it may add up fast but not nearly as fast as trying to speed up a 4 cylinder! Trust me, I have one! Maybe if we had ridiculous 5.2 gears but there's no fun when you top out at 130mph. I already dropped 6k+ on that car only to realize it's hopeless. I cut my losses and now I'm going to by my friend's grandfather's TA. He kept it BONE STOCK so the first thing I'm going to do is dyno it, and then tune it and dyno again so we can see how much the stock everything can pump out with a good tuner. The car isn't a WS6 so it has the plain hood. After I give it the stock tune though, it's all going to change. As for everything adding up fast, I'm going to save up a good $10k before I buy the car to pay for most if not all of the suspension and intake/exhaust stuff so the car can really breathe! Then it's going to be dyno tuned again! Expect a lot of dyno sheets from me in the future! If I change anything? DYNO SHEET!
The Chris1313 is on SpeedINC's site www.ls1speed.com
I would not do fast 102 intake upgrades before I did anything else. I would start with 1 7/8 longtubes y pipe and catback before anything that will produce the biggest power gains other than a cam or heads. the ls6 intake you have is a pretty good unit already. I wouldnt get the fast till you do a cam because i think the 102 on a stock motor wont see much gains for the 1000 plus dollars it costs
-TB
-rail
-manifold
You can just port your stock throttle body and manifold since i dont think your interested in chasing dyno numbers.... wait or arrre you
![Engarde](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/engarde.gif)
#35
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Great State of Texas
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Someone said it earlier, to get a mail order tune, and then get it dyno tuned after all the mods. I think that's also a waste of money. There's a tuner close to where I live. It's unlimited tuning up to one year. It's about $500 but worth it after you've done some bolt ons, then drive it for a couple of months and then adding the H/C/I, etc. But, I would suggest again, keeping it all stock, plus bolt on's, and then get the tune once. That would save you some money.
Yes this is one of the better forums for LSx Motors. There are a couple of jerks, but yes, a plethora of knowledge all throughout.
Yes this is one of the better forums for LSx Motors. There are a couple of jerks, but yes, a plethora of knowledge all throughout.
#36
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
this thread might make you rethink you 118lsa idea, i know it made me rethink what i'd want for a custom cam.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...am-change.html
you might want to take a few days to read it or it may make you head hurtits 25 pages long.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...am-change.html
you might want to take a few days to read it or it may make you head hurtits 25 pages long.
#37
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thank you fry, somehow I missed that thread! The problem is with open cut outs when you have more than 2* of overlap you start to smell gas and I want to avoid smelling gas like the plague.
I've come up with 2 more ideas to throw around.
The first one is based on the "Tourque coming out the ears" thread and that's:
223/227 .610"/.614" 113+0 lsa
Also, I found a website, elliottsportworks, he mentions a torque monster cam. It'd be:
215/219 .604"/.607" 110+2 lsa or 109+0 lsa
I've come up with 2 more ideas to throw around.
The first one is based on the "Tourque coming out the ears" thread and that's:
223/227 .610"/.614" 113+0 lsa
Also, I found a website, elliottsportworks, he mentions a torque monster cam. It'd be:
215/219 .604"/.607" 110+2 lsa or 109+0 lsa
#39
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If avioding the smell of gas is that important to you I'd consider a catted y pipe and putting the cut-out's after the cats. I think the cats would cost you less power than compromising on your cam choise, and you would smell less exhaust even with a cam that has little to no overlap.
#40
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Local tuning shop quoted me dyno tuning a stock motor at $350 flat rate and if I choose to go with them on my build in the future they quoted me $100 a tune after that.
I think that sounds like a pretty good rate to me!
I think that sounds like a pretty good rate to me!