Advise on a "stale" motor?
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Advise on a "stale" motor?
First off, Hi everyone, my name is Geoff and I own a Miata (2 actually).
Now that we have that outta the way!
I want to put a LS series motor in one of them this summer, and I found an engine/trans locally that I'm likely to buy soon but there's a slight issue.
The motor trans combo is out of an '02 ws6 t/a. They were pulled out of the car sometime in early '04 and as far as I can tell have been sitting on a pallet for the last 8 years. Externally everything looks great, just minor surface corrosion on the block and trans. But I'm worried about the internals, because as far as I know, the motor hasn't spun once in all that time. Is there a way to prime the oil system with out turning over the motor (like pulling the distributor on an old 350 and spinning the oil pump with a screwdriver)? I would like to do a compression check before purchase but I don't want to risk hurting the bearings by doing so. A little marvel mystery oil will be going in the cylinders before it's turned over for the first time too.
Edit: found the pvc pipe pressure tank idea, sounds great to me. Anything else I should check? maybe in the Trans?
And off to search more!
Thanks in advance
-Geoff
Info on the motor that I have so far:
12559378 back drivers side of block (indicating a newer style block I believe)
241 head casting
Now that we have that outta the way!
I want to put a LS series motor in one of them this summer, and I found an engine/trans locally that I'm likely to buy soon but there's a slight issue.
The motor trans combo is out of an '02 ws6 t/a. They were pulled out of the car sometime in early '04 and as far as I can tell have been sitting on a pallet for the last 8 years. Externally everything looks great, just minor surface corrosion on the block and trans. But I'm worried about the internals, because as far as I know, the motor hasn't spun once in all that time. Is there a way to prime the oil system with out turning over the motor (like pulling the distributor on an old 350 and spinning the oil pump with a screwdriver)? I would like to do a compression check before purchase but I don't want to risk hurting the bearings by doing so. A little marvel mystery oil will be going in the cylinders before it's turned over for the first time too.
Edit: found the pvc pipe pressure tank idea, sounds great to me. Anything else I should check? maybe in the Trans?
And off to search more!
Thanks in advance
-Geoff
Info on the motor that I have so far:
12559378 back drivers side of block (indicating a newer style block I believe)
241 head casting
Last edited by gesso; 01-23-2012 at 03:48 AM. Reason: did some searching
#2
Welcome!!
8 years is a long time for a stopped engine, be careful. The internal parts, depend of the coolant used, can to have any corrosion. Move the crank pulley with any wrench slowly. So you can see if the engine are bloqued.
8 years is a long time for a stopped engine, be careful. The internal parts, depend of the coolant used, can to have any corrosion. Move the crank pulley with any wrench slowly. So you can see if the engine are bloqued.
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if you HAVE to turn it over before pulling the heads, pull your plugs and have a look with a flashlight for anything obvious, then put some oil in the hole before turning it, it may be dried out.
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yea, but if you've got a motor sitting on a pallet in a garage for 8 years with nothing but an exhaust manifold between the exhaust valves that are partially/fully open because of firing order and the atmosphere, you could have bugs or anything else in there.
My engine had dirt dobbers in every single bolt hole and it only sat up for about a year and a half before I got it.
to be fair though.. the inside was fine.
My engine had dirt dobbers in every single bolt hole and it only sat up for about a year and a half before I got it.
to be fair though.. the inside was fine.
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I would really rather not pull the heads, but I will most definitely be pulling the plugs to inspect and put some oil in. (hopefully I can get my hands on a borescope and take a really good look).
Thanks for the info everyone
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Hmm, I guess thank you to the MOD that moved this to newbie tech.
More on topic, I can't seem to find the thread size and pitch for the oil galley plug on the drivers side of the block. I found a reference to it being 16x1.5 but nothing to confirm this. Any know for sure?
More on topic, I can't seem to find the thread size and pitch for the oil galley plug on the drivers side of the block. I found a reference to it being 16x1.5 but nothing to confirm this. Any know for sure?
Last edited by gesso; 01-24-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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you can make a priming tool, or buy the Melling oil priming tool. it puts 70psi worth of pressure to fill each and every cranny with oil before startup. its what im doing with my new motor. but while you have got it out, it is very worth it to go ahead and change those gaskets and throw on some studs. youd be a fool not to since its already out of the car. my bet is, if it was stored somewhere dry, then it will most likely be ok. my car was one that was not driven very much at all, i replaced the valvecover gaskets, the intake seals, the seals and gaskets for the TB and everything you could think of, as well as a new set of plugs and wires. but yeah.....you can def prime the motor. thats the way to go. some will say to turn it over using the starter with no spark or fuel going into it....but you wanna do this right to increase that bearing life as well as the other components. good luck.,