Torque converter selection suggestions?
#1
Torque converter selection suggestions?
As you can see in my signature I only have a small cam in my car so far as far as power mods. Intend to add headers and exhaust soon. Long terms plans will require a new trans and rear end. Still for now I would like to get a higher RPM torque converter to take advantage of what I have while saving for the expensive stuff. Any suggestions on specific stall speed and brands etc.? Is my daily driver so was thinking around 1000RPM over stock. I don't want to spend too much money as I will have to buy another when when I get the new tranny so trying to get something good but remembering it will be replaced in the future.
I do want to stay with a lockup converter which, along with the OD helps keep MPG as good as it can be. I stuck with stock shift points on the suggestion of the dyno tuner.
I do want to stay with a lockup converter which, along with the OD helps keep MPG as good as it can be. I stuck with stock shift points on the suggestion of the dyno tuner.
#3
Will check but...
I will take a look at the dyno sheet but while the HP is an obvious climb according to RPM the torque is pretty consistent from the RPM he began measuring at on the sheet up to peak. It changed very little from 2000-6000 with a low and peak being close to the average. Not a bad thing but hard to select in such a way I think.
#6
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3200 to 3600 would be a good range like bww said. Read around in the Automatic section for brand preferences or call a sponsor. I know Vigilante used to be highly recommended but I'm not so sure anymore since I haven't had an Fbody in over a year.
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As you can see in my signature I only have a small cam in my car so far as far as power mods. Intend to add headers and exhaust soon. Long terms plans will require a new trans and rear end. Still for now I would like to get a higher RPM torque converter to take advantage of what I have while saving for the expensive stuff. Any suggestions on specific stall speed and brands etc.? Is my daily driver so was thinking around 1000RPM over stock. I don't want to spend too much money as I will have to buy another when when I get the new tranny so trying to get something good but remembering it will be replaced in the future.
I do want to stay with a lockup converter which, along with the OD helps keep MPG as good as it can be. I stuck with stock shift points on the suggestion of the dyno tuner.
I do want to stay with a lockup converter which, along with the OD helps keep MPG as good as it can be. I stuck with stock shift points on the suggestion of the dyno tuner.
- Ideal stall speed for best performance with a 224 range cam will probably be in the 4000rpm stall range, +/- 200rpm, however anything is better than nothing. 3500 is the minimum I would suggest.
- I disagree with your dyno tuner. Stock shift points should not be retained for a 224 cam, as you are likely shifting before even hitting peak power (although your lack of headers may be causing a lower peak rpm at the current moment....maybe this was the reasoning behind the suggestion?).
- I would not worry about a new rear end for an A4 car unless your are planning a pretty serious build, or it actually breaks. Lots of us have gone some pretty quick 60-foots with the stock 10 bolt and the automatic. The rear is not a manditory upgrade for an A4, especially for street-only use, like it is for an M6 car that's going to be raced often.
#9
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Why do you think you will have to replace the converter when the new transmission goes in? Unless it is having problems it can be drained, filled, and used again.
Even if the trans fails, the converter can be rebuilt by the manufacturer for a decent price (IIRC in the $200-250 range).
I like my Yank SS 3600 a lot. I wouldn't go smaller especially if you plan to keep modding. It is tight enough around town I didn't even notice a severe drop in MPG and on the highway it is the same as stock converter.
Even if the trans fails, the converter can be rebuilt by the manufacturer for a decent price (IIRC in the $200-250 range).
I like my Yank SS 3600 a lot. I wouldn't go smaller especially if you plan to keep modding. It is tight enough around town I didn't even notice a severe drop in MPG and on the highway it is the same as stock converter.
#10
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I'd say the bare minimum for the 224R would be 3200rpm stall speed or so. We have had a lot of success with the Yank convertors and offer their full line-up.
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#11
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- Headers should have been done with the cam and dyno tune, IMO. You'll have to retune for the headers, which will cost more money. Headers will also allow you to realize more potential from that cam.
- Ideal stall speed for best performance with a 224 range cam will probably be in the 4000rpm stall range, +/- 200rpm, however anything is better than nothing. 3500 is the minimum I would suggest.
- I disagree with your dyno tuner. Stock shift points should not be retained for a 224 cam, as you are likely shifting before even hitting peak power (although your lack of headers may be causing a lower peak rpm at the current moment....maybe this was the reasoning behind the suggestion?).
- I would not worry about a new rear end for an A4 car unless your are planning a pretty serious build, or it actually breaks. Lots of us have gone some pretty quick 60-foots with the stock 10 bolt and the automatic. The rear is not a manditory upgrade for an A4, especially for street-only use, like it is for an M6 car that's going to be raced often.
- Ideal stall speed for best performance with a 224 range cam will probably be in the 4000rpm stall range, +/- 200rpm, however anything is better than nothing. 3500 is the minimum I would suggest.
- I disagree with your dyno tuner. Stock shift points should not be retained for a 224 cam, as you are likely shifting before even hitting peak power (although your lack of headers may be causing a lower peak rpm at the current moment....maybe this was the reasoning behind the suggestion?).
- I would not worry about a new rear end for an A4 car unless your are planning a pretty serious build, or it actually breaks. Lots of us have gone some pretty quick 60-foots with the stock 10 bolt and the automatic. The rear is not a manditory upgrade for an A4, especially for street-only use, like it is for an M6 car that's going to be raced often.
#15
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