blknSS

Ok, i'm torn on what to do next. With a list as big as mine you'd think it would be easier than i'm making it.

Goal: Summer fun road carver with good reliable power (450 +/- rwhp)

The Car: 1999 Camaro SS 6SPD T-Top 57k miles
Bought in Oct. 2011 Bone Stock

What i have done: Slp tuned length LT, ORY, Ls6 Intake, Magnaflow CB, SLP 25% underdrive, SLP lid, New plugs, New wires, Hotchkis STB, Adjustable Panhard Bar, Rear lower control arms, Slowhawk tune resulting in 340ish rwhp and tq. (I forget actual numbers) on a mustang dyno.

The Problem: Money is always some factor along the way. I will not be driving the car in the winter so most of the mods will be done while its in hibernation. Im not too comfortable with motor work but will give a crack at it while i have months to tinker around. I have put about 4k miles on it since i have owned it and everything seems to be in order. Clutch could be done but is ok for now. Tranny is good. Rear is ok, some light whine but nothing to be conserned with at this point imo (i know that a rear is in my future at this time but im going to opt out of replacing it now due to the $2K+ price tag). I will be flushing all fluids this winter as well. Brakes are ok but will be upgrading them (opinions/ideas?) I have been thinking about some Brembo slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads. I want to do a H/C swap this fall but will probably wait til taxes next spring. Also on my mind is some sway bars and i have been looking for some shocks as well. Ive thought about the SLP spring and shock set up....and opinions on that? The Headers i have will not allow me to lower the car much and slp claims that the springs lower the car about 1/2". What should i buy/do now? I have about $2k to spend. Spend my money!!

-Derek

conan

iTrader: (5)

Sub frame connectors would be on my list. Also what rim/tire combo are you running ? Some 10.5'' wide rims with some 315's in the back and some 275's up front will help your road carving goal. Next would be a head/cam combo.

blknSS

I am running a torqe thrust m? 17x9 all the way around with 275's. Pretty content with it at the moment but tires are on the list for late next year. Sub frame conectors is added to the list. Im thinking weld in ones.

blknSS

Ill throw some pics up later today.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Definitely go weld in SFC's.

blknSS

Before Wheels.....

blknSS

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...tors-weld-in-/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...-sway-bar-kit/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...shock-package/

I am strongly leaning towards this set up above unless someone talks me into buying the SLP (Eibach) springs......

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

id ditch those headers and another set on and lower it! 1.5 or 2 inch drop

blknSS

Lol, i know, i know. I didnt think that one though.

But, i got a good deal on them and am kind of set on living with them. The headers i haven't scraped yet but the ORY......what a joke.

JD_AMG

Op do a search.

For corner carving you want a square setup, not staggered. 315s in the rear with 275s in the front will understeer (I know, I have this setup and auto-x). You can certainly run this setup, but its not ideal for handling.
Next SFC's should be last on the list if money is tight. I have 3 point SFC's welded in and they did nothing. This is of course after i fixed the real problem: the stock shocks. Yes, you read right, that "flex" feeling many people get confused with is actually poor shock dampening.


Not a bad setup at all, you will see better gains for the money though if you skip the SFCs and use that money toward koni SAs:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7
Been there, done that.
Also for handling if you want more of a drop generally don't go below 1.2", mostly because the springs that are offered below that drop are either poor quality, or have goofy springs rates. But its a proven drop that works best for handling.

blknSS

^so what your saying is the koni's and swaybars would give me a "tighter and more responsive" ride? How different are the koni v. Slp bilstiens? Someone did say to me the koni's will make the car feel like a new bmw but i felt like that might be a little far fetched...

blknSS

And the whole set-up i had was around 1k, those "yellow koni's" are 9 bills on ther own, huge jump in cost v. effectivness i feel, though i dont from experience.

garygnu

heads .

JD_AMG

The Konis alone will give you a drastically tighter and more responsive ride, more so than any other single mod (I pretty much have them all, did them all separate as well). Ride will be taut, firm but not jarring (think german sports sedan like), and handling will be simply night and day. Super predictable, sticks like glue to the road a the limit, very well balanced (no more snap oversteer), and everything feel-wise is just heightened. Definitely my favorite mod.

The Konis are rebound adjustable (fixed compression setting), and the front have a lower spring perch setting to lower with the stock front springs about 3/4" or so. Many have compared front bilstiens to front konis on their full soft setting (which given the choice I run much much closer to full hard (this is the rebound setting, this does not mean the shocks necessarily become stiffer and ride harder - it will however change the way the car handles, feels, and reacts.) The bilstiens are non-adjustble and really valved for stock springs to a moderate drop. The Konis are the more handling oriented shock (and used to win multiple national auto-x championships to boot...)

Theres no getting around the fact these are big, solid axle cars, but with the konis on otherwise stock suspension the ride is actually really similar to how many modern day [stereotypically german] sports sedans ride. Firm, very solid, lots of feedback yet forgiving as well. Unlike the stock shocks which are more s10 truck-like, slapping against bumps, bouncing, floating, feeling loose, disconnected and all around sloppy.

Its about $150 difference between the konis or bilstiens + SFCs. I have konis and SFC's and I can tell you (again) the SFC's did nothing. The Konis are far superior to the bilstiens (which are still not bad at all). You will be getting more for your money that way, especially if you are looking for a handling setup.

pferris

iTrader: (2)

i would not skip the subframe connectors. this tread may be useful. https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...anna-fast.html

blknSS

Ordered this after some thought and reading. I think having the SFC will benefit the cars handling even if a miniscule amount at that. The koni's are just too much coin right now for what i want to do in the near future. I feel like this will be my best set up for my goals. Will update thread when i receive all the parts and get them installed to get a personal review on how i felt it changed the car. Thanks for everyone's input.