First time on slicks
#1
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First time on slicks
So since i got my car, ive been racing on my z rated street tires. I have let out of it after spinning then ease back in as i get traction, hit second, let out again (only for a split second) then try to leave a pedal size dent in the floor. Been running 8.7s in the eighth. I just picked up some ET streets for the next time i go to the track. How is this going to change my runs? How high should i rev it to launch? My clutch will hold, the tranny should hold, and i wont mention the rear end >.<.
Walk me through a burnout, stage and launch please. Sure would appreciate it
Walk me through a burnout, stage and launch please. Sure would appreciate it
#2
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Decent 2nd gear burn, just enough to see smoke then let out. Drive around the water and back in to keep from putting water down in front of your rear tires.
On the Dr's and stock rear I wouldn't go side stepping it but a nice smooth quick release action should get you moving good. If it bogs on the line, step up the r's a little on the launch. I wouldn't go past 4k tho. If it's still bogging, put some more pressure in the tire.
Oh, and start saving for a new rear. With sticky tires, it's only a matter of time.
On the Dr's and stock rear I wouldn't go side stepping it but a nice smooth quick release action should get you moving good. If it bogs on the line, step up the r's a little on the launch. I wouldn't go past 4k tho. If it's still bogging, put some more pressure in the tire.
Oh, and start saving for a new rear. With sticky tires, it's only a matter of time.
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It depends on what's done to your car and what kind of tires how much spin you're gonna get. Also suspension mods help with traction too. And I second what someone else said, start saving for a rear end
#6
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You have a maybe a mid 13 car, pretty much does not make enough power to hurt it too much but clutch, and rear are definitly areas you need to address. The trans over all should be fine so as long as you have not fragged from bad driving.
You also should have at this point Line Lock to help with burn outs as those et streets will catch and its very hard to clutch dump and grab the brake to do a brake stand. I broke a moser 12 bolt diff due to that.
You also should have at this point Line Lock to help with burn outs as those et streets will catch and its very hard to clutch dump and grab the brake to do a brake stand. I broke a moser 12 bolt diff due to that.
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#9
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I have LCA relocation brackets, and my sway bar is gone. SFCs and STB. and thats it for suspension.. On the street tires, just holding it to the floor the entire pass, im hazing the tires 90% of the track all the way through first and second, and into third. and thats from an idle at launch.. I would love to hear it dead hook from 3500
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I have LCA relocation brackets, and my sway bar is gone. SFCs and STB. and thats it for suspension.. On the street tires, just holding it to the floor the entire pass, im hazing the tires 90% of the track all the way through first and second, and into third. and thats from an idle at launch.. I would love to hear it dead hook from 3500
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I'm also thinking about throwing a set of ET streets on next time I hit the track.
So far on the ZR street tires @ around 24 psi, I've only managed a 2.14 60' dumping it @ 2500 rpm, and my best run of 13.50 @ 105.83 with a 2.17 60'.
I'm tempted to throw those M/T's on to get that 60' down and get into the low 13's but worried about breaking the rear.
Keep us posted on how they worked out for you next time you hit the track.
So far on the ZR street tires @ around 24 psi, I've only managed a 2.14 60' dumping it @ 2500 rpm, and my best run of 13.50 @ 105.83 with a 2.17 60'.
I'm tempted to throw those M/T's on to get that 60' down and get into the low 13's but worried about breaking the rear.
Keep us posted on how they worked out for you next time you hit the track.
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last time i was at the track with et streets i was going around 3700 with a very quick relese on the clutch.i pulled a mid 1.80 my car bogged just a little but not bad i think if i would of had a little more presure in the tires it would of did better i think i had 14 ps.i ive always heard its better to spin a little off the line then dead hook. just play with the launch and psi and find what works best for that track.
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I do a 2nd gear burnout at about 4k until I feel the tires starting to grip and bog the car down, thats when there hot enouph to start hooking, you want to drive get some water on them before you burnout also. I do 6k rpm dumps but I have a built nine, for you I would say start at 3k and find what your comfterble with. YOU WILL BOG when they hook at low rpms no doubt. I bog sometimes a 6k dumps with 500rwhp
#18
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I'm also thinking about throwing a set of ET streets on next time I hit the track.
So far on the ZR street tires @ around 24 psi, I've only managed a 2.14 60' dumping it @ 2500 rpm, and my best run of 13.50 @ 105.83 with a 2.17 60'.
I'm tempted to throw those M/T's on to get that 60' down and get into the low 13's but worried about breaking the rear.
Keep us posted on how they worked out for you next time you hit the track.
So far on the ZR street tires @ around 24 psi, I've only managed a 2.14 60' dumping it @ 2500 rpm, and my best run of 13.50 @ 105.83 with a 2.17 60'.
I'm tempted to throw those M/T's on to get that 60' down and get into the low 13's but worried about breaking the rear.
Keep us posted on how they worked out for you next time you hit the track.
#19
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Slipping the clutch is the #1 reason why you frag the clutch and stand a really good chance of breaking the transmission. May work a few times but thats a ticking time bomb and the extended downside of needing a possible rebuild or replacement....
Just don't do it.
Just don't do it.