Now, about that 4.8L ...
#1
Now, about that 4.8L ...
Hi guys, still looking everywhere for infos, and to find an engine that satisfies me. My goal is to find a nice engine and install it an S13 chassis. An aluminium V8 would quite well balance the car, something the japanese straight 6 don't ( that and there is too much "jdm tax" on them ). The idea is to get around 400HP in a reliable way, and maybe keep some margin for future goals. I have access to and will use e85 (i currently use a 300HP CA18DET)
I actually want a grip machine, so no straight line missile, and no tyre schredding machine either.
For thatt i need to get torque away from the low end, so ... cam is in order. I also like my engines to rev a bit, so i guess pushrods and springs are in order too.
A friend of mine showed how a 2000+ Z28 camaro drove, and while it was nice, i expected the 5.7L to behave differently, in a way that i can't really use one. Gobs and gobs of torque means i WILL lock the rear every time i downshift a bit fast, if it even is possible, and modding it to rev would still make too much torque down low,too much power for me to handle.
Again, not a drift car, not a straight line missile, a fun car that CAN go sideways, but is built to actually go fast around corners.
I think the unloved 4.8L would be quite perfect for my use. Lower displacement so less torque, less stroke and longer rods, than a 5.3L, meaning it will be easier to make it rev and might burn less fuel (fuel cost is not an issue, but mileage per tank may be).
So from what i could find, they make the same kind of power a 5.3L does, just without the low end grunt, which fits perfectly. Finally they are quite cheap to buy and upgrade, so it might be my chance.
From a balance point of view though, i'd rather go with the aluminium block version, which is 100lbs lighter, and that is where the problems start. I heard it exists but i can't find any reference for that one. It just is a destroked 5.3L.
Ever heard of it ? Or do i have to buy a 5.3L bare block and swap it ? I'd rather not, shipping from the US to France is already not cheap, and L33s are not cheap either ...
As i don't know much about these engines, i am open to ideas and comment about it. I am good at turbo 4 pots and 2 strokes engines, but american V8s ... never had one
I actually want a grip machine, so no straight line missile, and no tyre schredding machine either.
For thatt i need to get torque away from the low end, so ... cam is in order. I also like my engines to rev a bit, so i guess pushrods and springs are in order too.
A friend of mine showed how a 2000+ Z28 camaro drove, and while it was nice, i expected the 5.7L to behave differently, in a way that i can't really use one. Gobs and gobs of torque means i WILL lock the rear every time i downshift a bit fast, if it even is possible, and modding it to rev would still make too much torque down low,too much power for me to handle.
Again, not a drift car, not a straight line missile, a fun car that CAN go sideways, but is built to actually go fast around corners.
I think the unloved 4.8L would be quite perfect for my use. Lower displacement so less torque, less stroke and longer rods, than a 5.3L, meaning it will be easier to make it rev and might burn less fuel (fuel cost is not an issue, but mileage per tank may be).
So from what i could find, they make the same kind of power a 5.3L does, just without the low end grunt, which fits perfectly. Finally they are quite cheap to buy and upgrade, so it might be my chance.
From a balance point of view though, i'd rather go with the aluminium block version, which is 100lbs lighter, and that is where the problems start. I heard it exists but i can't find any reference for that one. It just is a destroked 5.3L.
Ever heard of it ? Or do i have to buy a 5.3L bare block and swap it ? I'd rather not, shipping from the US to France is already not cheap, and L33s are not cheap either ...
As i don't know much about these engines, i am open to ideas and comment about it. I am good at turbo 4 pots and 2 strokes engines, but american V8s ... never had one
#3
TECH Fanatic
^^^And some 5.3 truck motors like the L33.
I think a L33 with a cam would be your best bet for what your describing, but I'd rather still have low end torque and use my right foot (or in your case left foot) to control wheel spin.
I think a L33 with a cam would be your best bet for what your describing, but I'd rather still have low end torque and use my right foot (or in your case left foot) to control wheel spin.
#4
My S13 in its current form weights around 2100lbs, with all fluids and me inside. It also has a 3.9 diff ratio.
Not sure my clutch and accelerator work is enough not to melt tyres
If i have to get an L33 block to go aluminium, i'll just stay with the 5.3L.
Shopping list so far, correct me if i get something wrong:
L33, LC9 or LH6 engine with pcm and harness, minus accessories
Mill the heads as long as there is no interference or new pistons (11:1 comp, here i come. And i should still be able to turbo the thing in the future, that is the power of e85)
stronger valve springs, rockers, push rods, cam (ls6 ?)
double timing chain and oil pump from ls6
electric water pump, maybe
Fbody/GTO accessories, oil pan and intake (or ls6 intake)
clutch & flywheel kit, master and slave clutch actuators
convertion headers, engine mounts, gearbox mount, shaft
T56 manual
Software to tune (i am already used to tuning turbo 4 pots with MAF and sequential injection/ batch EFI, i can't see how an NA v8 could be harder... any caveats specific to these engines maybe ?)
radiator core ? It currently handles my puny 4 pots with 20psi of boost. oil cooler maybe then.
Not sure my clutch and accelerator work is enough not to melt tyres
If i have to get an L33 block to go aluminium, i'll just stay with the 5.3L.
Shopping list so far, correct me if i get something wrong:
L33, LC9 or LH6 engine with pcm and harness, minus accessories
Mill the heads as long as there is no interference or new pistons (11:1 comp, here i come. And i should still be able to turbo the thing in the future, that is the power of e85)
stronger valve springs, rockers, push rods, cam (ls6 ?)
double timing chain and oil pump from ls6
electric water pump, maybe
Fbody/GTO accessories, oil pan and intake (or ls6 intake)
clutch & flywheel kit, master and slave clutch actuators
convertion headers, engine mounts, gearbox mount, shaft
T56 manual
Software to tune (i am already used to tuning turbo 4 pots with MAF and sequential injection/ batch EFI, i can't see how an NA v8 could be harder... any caveats specific to these engines maybe ?)
radiator core ? It currently handles my puny 4 pots with 20psi of boost. oil cooler maybe then.
#5
TECH Fanatic
I don't know if it holds true in France but in the states it would be cheaper to buy an entire F-body and part it out than it would be to buy those parts separately, I'd bet some people would argue that point but it's the little stuff that comes with a whole car that gets expensive once you add it all up.
#6
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tallahassee / Orlando
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you looking to do it as cheaply as possible? If not, would de-stroking/reducing displacement or some other options reduce the low-end torque of the 5.3L some?
#7
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: LA
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've only heard of one shop building a car for an f body class, rules stated motor couldn't be bigger than 347 cubes, so they de-stroked a ls motor and put bigger pistons in it to make a 347, rev it to 14k and won almost every race, next year rules were changed to stock displacement and stock stroke, due to an expensive custom crank, not to many people asking for a de-stroked crank I guess
Trending Topics
#8
I don't know if it holds true in France but in the states it would be cheaper to buy an entire F-body and part it out than it would be to buy those parts separately, I'd bet some people would argue that point but it's the little stuff that comes with a whole car that gets expensive once you add it all up.
Still, if i need a 5.3L to build an aluminium 4.8L, it is not worth building a 4.8L. I'll just pull timing if i can't control the low end torque and that will be it.
I'd rather not skimp (did that mistake before) but if the cheapest and simplest is to go 5.3L, i'll try that. Nothing is decided yet, i still need to know more about these engines before deciding (and i need to find a place to source the parts too, i won't pay 3k for a 130K engine that is for sure)
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
~100K mile L33s are on eBay for a reasonable price all the time. Couple on there now. And since you haven't had one of these before- with proper maintenance, 100K miles is barely broken in for LS motors.
I have no point of reference for shipping an engine overseas..how much does that run?
I have no point of reference for shipping an engine overseas..how much does that run?
#10
I think shipping is in the 300-500$ zone. I have checked on ebay, but until now i have mostly seen 2500$+ L33s, and it still requires new intake mani and accessories to even fit. Then i have to add gearbox, clutch, flywheel. On the other hand, i saw complete ls1 drop in with a T56 gearbox for 3500-4500. The 4.8L is in the 500-800$ zone, but again no clutch or gearbox. Still undecided on what to do.
I know these engines can be reliable, that is one of the reasons i want one. I grow tired of having to disassemble and check everything every 20.000 miles at best. Last time i did, the little CA needed a new turbo, oil pump, exhaust mani, turbo lines. The previous time it needed new rings ... Although that is expected from a circa 200HP/L engine, it gets boring. I want something more "drop it in and forget it", which should be attainable with a modified sub 100hp/L engine.
I also know i can't really trust the history or mileage of an engine from the other side of the world (heck, you can't trust it when it comes from a yard next to your home either), so this is going to take pics and compression test results before i buy anything.
Or i could just come on holidays and stuff a container full of used LS/vortec engines, parts and gearboxes. I bet these could fetch a nice price here... although this is very unlikely to happen :p
I know these engines can be reliable, that is one of the reasons i want one. I grow tired of having to disassemble and check everything every 20.000 miles at best. Last time i did, the little CA needed a new turbo, oil pump, exhaust mani, turbo lines. The previous time it needed new rings ... Although that is expected from a circa 200HP/L engine, it gets boring. I want something more "drop it in and forget it", which should be attainable with a modified sub 100hp/L engine.
I also know i can't really trust the history or mileage of an engine from the other side of the world (heck, you can't trust it when it comes from a yard next to your home either), so this is going to take pics and compression test results before i buy anything.
Or i could just come on holidays and stuff a container full of used LS/vortec engines, parts and gearboxes. I bet these could fetch a nice price here... although this is very unlikely to happen :p
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
Yep. First startup on a motor form across the pond would be a real nail biter. How many miles do you consider acceptable? These motors go 300K+ properly maintained but everyone has their particular threshold for that. There's a couple of L33s on eBay in wrecked but running vehicles for about a grand but they are in the ~140K range.