Input needed on 400+rwhp newbie build
#1
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Input needed on 400+rwhp newbie build
Alright guys, I'll get the basics out of the way.
2002 Trans Am WS6
T56 6-speed, 3.42's
~90,000 miles
Nice Weather DD
My current mods are as follows:
Monster Stage 2 clutch/28lb flywheel
SLP LM2 Catback
TSP 1-7/8 LTs
TSP ORY
SLP lid
Potz Speed Port/Polish Throttle Body
Frost Mail Tune
SFC's
My planned mods are:
Advanced Inductions 219cc Full CNC 241's
Advanced Inductions custom cam (no specs as of yet, haven't gotten that far with Phil)
Dyno Tune at either Karl Performance or a local guy in Iowa
My questions are fairly simple:
Will 400+rwhp be easily achievable with this setup? I've read many good things about the full CNC 241's AI offers, and I think its a solid choice with my budget. I've also read that their cam lobes aren't abusive as hell to the valvetrain, which is what I want since its my DD with only a few track passes per year.
I'm looking for useable low to midrange power, as that's where I'll be spending most of my time in the RPMs around town.
Should I look into their high compression 241 package as well? Maybe an 11:1 since the fuel in my area is always 91? What would be the benefits of the higher compression version vs the regular full CNC? Is it worth the extra money?
They offer to either put bronze liners or full bronze guides to refurbish worn out guides, is that good or no? I have no idea what the benefit of that would even be. I would have them do the trunnion upgrade while they have the heads as well, I assume stock rockers would work just fine?
For springs, would the PSI 1511's they offer be a good solid choice? or should I look into duals?
Should I get the ported LS6 oil pump? My car currently has an idle pressure of ~45-50, and a cruising pressure of ~60-70ish.
Any other advice about what I should do along with this swap? Besides the obvious like lifters and trays, and pushrods.
I could also piece together a kit as well, like their 205cc 241 heads and a cam, or even the performance rebuild of a set of 243s/799s if I can get my hands on a set for cheap cheap.
Any advice, experience, details, anything is appreciated guys.
Thanks.
2002 Trans Am WS6
T56 6-speed, 3.42's
~90,000 miles
Nice Weather DD
My current mods are as follows:
Monster Stage 2 clutch/28lb flywheel
SLP LM2 Catback
TSP 1-7/8 LTs
TSP ORY
SLP lid
Potz Speed Port/Polish Throttle Body
Frost Mail Tune
SFC's
My planned mods are:
Advanced Inductions 219cc Full CNC 241's
Advanced Inductions custom cam (no specs as of yet, haven't gotten that far with Phil)
Dyno Tune at either Karl Performance or a local guy in Iowa
My questions are fairly simple:
Will 400+rwhp be easily achievable with this setup? I've read many good things about the full CNC 241's AI offers, and I think its a solid choice with my budget. I've also read that their cam lobes aren't abusive as hell to the valvetrain, which is what I want since its my DD with only a few track passes per year.
I'm looking for useable low to midrange power, as that's where I'll be spending most of my time in the RPMs around town.
Should I look into their high compression 241 package as well? Maybe an 11:1 since the fuel in my area is always 91? What would be the benefits of the higher compression version vs the regular full CNC? Is it worth the extra money?
They offer to either put bronze liners or full bronze guides to refurbish worn out guides, is that good or no? I have no idea what the benefit of that would even be. I would have them do the trunnion upgrade while they have the heads as well, I assume stock rockers would work just fine?
For springs, would the PSI 1511's they offer be a good solid choice? or should I look into duals?
Should I get the ported LS6 oil pump? My car currently has an idle pressure of ~45-50, and a cruising pressure of ~60-70ish.
Any other advice about what I should do along with this swap? Besides the obvious like lifters and trays, and pushrods.
I could also piece together a kit as well, like their 205cc 241 heads and a cam, or even the performance rebuild of a set of 243s/799s if I can get my hands on a set for cheap cheap.
Any advice, experience, details, anything is appreciated guys.
Thanks.
Last edited by ISU-WS6; 12-05-2014 at 08:25 PM.
#2
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400 rear wheel should be a walk in the park even with a ls6 intake. I would let the builder choose the cam to match the heads as well as the springs. I would also ask them if you are going to need to upgrade your fuel. ie injectors and pump. The trunnion upgrade is also a good idea from reading about failures in rockers that don't have it.
I would ask them about your compression, you don't want to have a car pingng or having to add octane boost every time you fill up the tank.
I would ask them about your compression, you don't want to have a car pingng or having to add octane boost every time you fill up the tank.
#4
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I'd go with the AI high compression full CNC 241's with 11:1 SCR, and have the cam chosen with that in mind so you don't have to worry about knock. I'd also go with a cam lift around .600" to make the most of the head flow.
The higher SCR will allow you to run a larger cam and/or a wider LSA and still meet your low to midrange power goals, or a smaller cam and still meet you peak hp, along with your low to midrange power goals. So basically you'll have more cam options.
The higher SCR will allow you to run a larger cam and/or a wider LSA and still meet your low to midrange power goals, or a smaller cam and still meet you peak hp, along with your low to midrange power goals. So basically you'll have more cam options.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 12-06-2014 at 03:09 PM.
#6
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Its all a matter of cost to HP. to go from stock 330 to 435 rear wheel is H/C, headers, so maybe 5-6 thousand with tuning and install. A Fast intake and tb is going to be $1100 plus another hundred for the plumbing and then add $230 for rails so call it $1500 and you are going to need at least an 85mm maf. Now you have to tune all over again and this is going to get you maybe 15 rear wheel.
If you can, but it doesn't happen very often is build it once to what you want.
If you can, but it doesn't happen very often is build it once to what you want.
#7
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I'm not necessarily looking to squeeze every little ounce of power out, so maybe sending my LS6 intake to the company to have it converted to an 85 opening would be a better budget route? What company does that? It sounds dumb really, but low 400s rwhp sounds perfect for me. Not too radical, but definitely a good performer. I don't even know what torque to expect
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#8
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IMO, no leave the LS6 intake alone or get a FAST 92 which works with the factory fuel rails. For your goals the LS6 intake/ported tb is perfectly fine. Even with a FAST intake you'd probably never notice any power difference from the LS6 below 5k rpm. So the only true benefit you will see going with a FAST intake is on the dyno, and at the track where you'll have the rpms above 5k. Now back to the cam, since you've given me the impression you're more concerned about power below peak I'd suggest a single pattern cam. As far as cam size that depend on how much valve overlap(cam lope) you're will to go with.
#10
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I'm not necessarily looking to squeeze every little ounce of power out, so maybe sending my LS6 intake to the company to have it converted to an 85 opening would be a better budget route? What company does that? It sounds dumb really, but low 400s rwhp sounds perfect for me. Not too radical, but definitely a good performer. I don't even know what torque to expect
#11
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IMO, yes he'd be able to hit his rwHP goal with stock untouched heads, but not while also meeting that requirement. You could use weak interpretation of useable then say he can, but I doubt that's what he meant.
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Power under peak is definitely what I'm seeking. I don't need 6500rpm power as much as I do 4000-5000. I do some pulls on the interstate from time to time and stoplight to stoplight, shifting at the yellow usually, so I suppose peak power is important too. When I end up racing someone, it's either from a stop or about 3k rpm. 400rwhp is the minimum I'm looking to reach. But I don't need someone speccing me a H/C combo for 500rwhp either
#13
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Power under peak is definitely what I'm seeking. I don't need 6500rpm power as much as I do 4000-5000. I do some pulls on the interstate from time to time and stoplight to stoplight, shifting at the yellow usually, so I suppose peak power is important too. When I end up racing someone, it's either from a stop or about 3k rpm. 400rwhp is the minimum I'm looking to reach. But I don't need someone speccing me a H/C combo for 500rwhp either
#15
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Power under peak is definitely what I'm seeking. I don't need 6500rpm power as much as I do 4000-5000. I do some pulls on the interstate from time to time and stoplight to stoplight, shifting at the yellow usually, so I suppose peak power is important too. When I end up racing someone, it's either from a stop or about 3k rpm. 400rwhp is the minimum I'm looking to reach. But I don't need someone speccing me a H/C combo for 500rwhp either
AI can spec you a 228/228 111lsa +3 with lift of about .600" maybe a little more if they think you'd benefit from it with their high CR cnc ported 241 head package. If you wanting some a little bit smaller then the smallest I'd recommend going is with a 224/224 110lsa +3.
BTW, I runs a comparable cam in my DD Z28 (227/230 111lsa+3) and have excellent low to midrange power, a nice lope, but in my opinion still very DD friendly, and I spend most of my time in the 2k-3k rpm range when driving around town.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 12-06-2014 at 08:03 PM.
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Yeah guys, nice lopey cam that gives good mid range is what I need. AI's high compression packages sounds like what I need. I would have them spec a cam to match, hopefully 400-430 rwhp would be within the performance. Above 400 torque would be cool too, so I could claim to be above 400 on both.
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If it were me (with your particular build) i'd just leave the LS6 alone, port the TB, and do a good ram air like the SSRA or Chris1313. This in not a max effort top end so I wouldn't treat it as such
#18
TECH Veteran
Just do a EPS baby cam. The 222/226 cam made 430rwhp with untouched 243 heads and had 415 rwtq to boot. That was also threw a 4L60 tranny too. Here is a link https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1213394-baby-eps-cam-lays-down-430rwhp-415rwtq-track-results.html
Last edited by Tuskyz28; 12-07-2014 at 12:13 PM.
#19
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I've heard good things about EPS, but I feel like maybe having AI spec my cam because they are doing the port work is better. They can assemble my heads and all that.
#20
I basically had the same goals as you and went with the TSP 228R. There was no low end loss and it made great power everywhere. Last time on the dyno it did 425/390 on a mustang dyno with PRC 2.5 heads. Cant beat that through the ls6 intake and a y pipe exhaust.