Camron Moore

Now I'm picking up a SS yank 4000 next week would that be to big for a daily driver I'm not gone install until I put my ported ls6 intake with 42 lbs injectors on

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

no it wont be too big and the intake and injectors have zero effect on how the yank will perform and can be installed independently.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I don't think it'll be too big, but I do hope you have some good drag radials. Because if you're making any decent power, then 1st gear will be useless and part of 2nd too without them.

Camron Moore

Ima get some good radials after I change my 10 bolt because I do not wanna break my 10 bolt you think I can install my stall before I do my intake and heads fellas .?

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

yes,you can install it first. id get everything done at once though and get it tuned.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

This^^^

It'll save you money if you get it all tuned at once vs going back for retunes. Most tuners charge $150-$200 for retunes unless it's a huge mod change. Some tuners don't charge anything for minor things, but I'd say at minimal it'll be a charge for heads & intake.

As far as changing your 10 bolt out, I wouldn't touch it until you start making some good power and are going to be launching hard at the track. Auto's aren't as hard on them as m6 cars are. There are a lot of people cutting 1.5-1.6 60' on the stock 10 bolt. I'm still using my stock 10 bolt with a yank ss3600 and I put down 529rwhp/529rwtq when it was last tuned.

Camron Moore

Damn bro and the 10 bolt still holding on strong even with sticky tires.? Bro well in that case Ima get my intake and stall put on first because I have 1 3/4 headers and full exhaust then heads and cam together bro hopefully before heads and cam hopefully 350ish

Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

Nice. Car should stroll along fine.

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

you will be fine on the 10 bolt in an auto

Camron Moore

My 99 Trans Am A4 thank you fellas you all have been a big help man.!

Ohio Bird of Prey

Don't forget to install a good transmission cooler for the stall if you haven't already. And by the way YANK ROCKS.

Camron Moore

Thank you I'm not installing it until I get everything so that way I can tune and dyno all once bro and I'm picking up the ss yank 4000 stall next week Wednesday morning I'm totally excited man.!

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it's holding just fine with Toyo tq drag radials and my buddy is around 650rwhp on his stock 10 bolt with mt et streets. I imagine with a really sticky tire and launching with as much power the tire can hold, then it may start breaking. But I honestly wouldn't be worried about it unless I was around 500rwhp and launching hard at the track all the time.
This too^^^

Go with at least the B&M 70266 or I wished I had went with the B&M 70274. I have the 70266 and it has always kept it at good temps. I do 95% stop and go city driving, but the cooler you can keep it, the longer it will last. If you don't have a good cooler, you will burn up your transmission pretty quick. I would definitely go with the B&M 70274 though with the yank 4000 because it's going to produce more heat from slippage than a smaller stall. It'll look like it won't fit, but it will mount in front of your ac condenser.

Camron Moore

Yea I gotta get one of the best because I'm not trying to burn my transmission up I just got the car last monthe on the 17 so im doing everything the right and legit way new parts and nonething but best parts

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

I understand the mentality but you have to understand parts are going to break and modding one area is going to move the point failure to another especially with how old these cars are, just keep in mind if this is your DD when you start swapping parts have some cash laying around to be able to fix not what can break but what will break.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

That's all fact in the advice he just gave. I'll give you a rundown on how mine went. Even though they didn't break, they had to be swapped in order to make use of the mods, or it was all wasted money.

Got my car with 11,613 miles on it with just borla adj catback only and lowered. I did cam, headers, y pipe, stall, and lid all at once at 15,9xx miles. I had zero traction so I got lca relocation brackets to help traction. After those I had to get adj lower control arms because my wheels weren't centered in the rear wheel wells and had slight wheel hop occasionally. So I narrowed it down to my stock torque arm was flexing, so I got an adj torque arm and the problem was fixed... until it started hitting the bottom of the driveshaft arch under the car on bumps and dips in the road. I then realized that my rear end wasn't centered from left to right, which was causing it to hit. So I had to buy an adj panhard rod to fix it. Then I had to get new shocks/struts and I figured I may as well change the springs too. All that to fix traction/wheel hop basically.

Everything you do will take a toll on the weak parts and I possibly could have just got away with a torque arm and lower control arms had I not lowered it, but who knows. Then I turbo'd it with 19k miles on it and the transmission had to be built to hold the power.

I replaced my stuff before it had a chance to break, but like usnfenix said, things will start breaking and if it's your daily driver, then I would make sure you have some cash saved up. If you're going to do heads, cam, and intake, then you'll be close to pushing the limits of the stock 4l60e (430-450rwhp depending on what heads, cam, intake you choose) and need to have it built to hold the power.

All of this isn't to derail your plans, it's just to make sure that you know what you're getting yourself into. I have seen many people say that they wished they had left it stock. I have said it many times myself

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

^this

another thing I forgot to mention and I myself have been a victim of, plan your final build and what you want the car to be at all in advance and then sit on it for awhile and make sure that's what you want, then start buying and installing the parts. You'll see countless for sale threads of people selling brand new parts for cheap with the infamous title of "going a different direction". IMO, know ahead of time what you want to do then do it.

example, you buy an slp lid and ls6 intake and do regular bolt ons, then decide you want to do heads/cam. you then arnt getting the power you want out of the cam so you decide to upgrade to a FAST 92 or 102mm intake so you remove the ls6 and drop the money on the FAST 102. now you need a new TB and also will need new fuel rails for the intake and it runs well, but now your lid doesn't match your FAST and your not getting the most out of it, and will buy a 104mm lid and either go SD or get the 100mm maf to match the system. all money you could have avoided if you planned everything in detail the first time. theres no rush to mod

Camron Moore

Wow that makes a lot of since fellas I can't even say how much you all is helping me man but you all is right I need to sit down and make a list of everything cause my goal is to be 430ish rwhp / mid 11's on track which is not to big of a leap to make by December or before Ima buy me another car except that's gone be my daily and 99 Trans am gone be my race car so far I have 1 3/4 headers , no cats , ory pipe electric cut out Slp lid next week I'm picking up a ss yank 4000 then 2 weeks after that ported ls6 intake with 42lbs injectors then next looking for heads and Ima get a custom cam made for my application to get the most use out of it then tune what's the best heads you think u should get I hear a lot of good stuff from 243's and 799's ported

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

cant beat a pair of 243's. I would do all bolt ons and supporting mods before I break into the block. basically when your fully ready to do a cam, then do the heads. Youll see why when you do it.

Camron Moore

I know 1 reason why lols it's expensive cause when I install my cam I'm changing everything to be on the safe side lol