Phobos

Hey everyone, I've been lurking for awhile now and I think I'm finally ready to commit, but I'd like some opinions before I do. I found a 2002 Trans AM M6 that I'm really impressed with, but...

1. (I found this by carfax) It was originally sold in Texas, driven for 15k by one owner, and is now being sold here in so cal. When it got here, it's shown as failing the emissions test once and then passing 11 miles on the odometer later.... were CA models different like alot of other cars for emissions? Should I pass on this one since it already failed once (i.e. who knows what was done to make it pass....I did look at and drive it, and everything seemed to be stock and working properly)

2. It's not a WS6, but it seems to me that if I'd be willing to buy the hood later, and was going to change the wheels, springs/shocks, and exhaust anyway, that it makes sense *not* to buy the WS6.....thoughts?

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

if its a texas car I would say you scored cause it dosent come w/ the horsepower robbing california emissions, thats a good thing, how much are you pickin it up for and how many miles are on it?, if I were you I'd crawl under the car and double check all the bushings, alignment, check for rear end leaks or other leaks, scrapes, ect.. and drive around slow in a parking lot w/ the windows down making sharp turns and listen for any clunking or squeaking sounds, if the clutch feels good and the car feels strong and everything else is ok I'd pick it up

DANSLS1GTO

Don't know if this is relavant - but here in MI when they had the sniffer tests, I had an 89 geo metro w/ the 3 cylinder. Just about ever time I had to test it - including the first year (it did have 30k miles on it) - it would fail unless I had it nice and hot. I'd just have to go out and drive and drive to get it passed.
Dan

jrp

iTrader: (16)

is the car modded? stock vs stock there is no difference between a car sold in texas and a car sold in cali. they all meet the same emissions standards. california doesnt get "special" emissions cars.

Phobos

I brought a friend and did a pretty thorough inspection last week.....everything seems to be untouched and in perfect working order.....they want 21.5k for it, which is considerably less than its blue book value.

I just remembered the other thing that concerned me, though! When I was driving it, the "Check Gauges" light was on, which worried me, but the car was obscenely low on fuel and I figured that was what caused it. I'll definately check before I spend over 20k on it, but I was just wondering if that was a possible cause?

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

Check gauges = you need gas, that's about it. There is no actual low fuel light.

ricker6869

iTrader: (2)

When a car is marked not to pass emmisions it also includes safety inspection. I once had my car fail the TX inspection because one of my high beams was out. It did not pass inspection due to this. I later replaced it and passed. When I sold my car, I ran a carfax to give the buyer some more sense of security and to my surprise the carfax report stated "failed emmisions" This was the same year of the high beam issue. Anyway, so what I am saying is that if the car you are thinking of buying is in good condition, it likely was some b.s. problem like headlight out, turn signal buld out...or even those lights that illuminate you license plates (here in texas anyway)

Good luck,
Ricker

skytower31

iTrader: (4)

Has the car been registered in CA yet? If it hasn't, pop the hood and look for the emissions sticker and make sure it says MEETS CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS REGULATIONS. 50 State federal emissions does not fly in CA. Not that there is any equipment difference, just it MUST have that sticker. If it was registered in CA before, then you are golden.

Also, it could have failed the emissions simply if the Service Engine Soon light was on. This could have been due to many things such as a malfunctioning sensor, etc. If that light is on and the car is throwing a code, regardless of what it is, it will fail CA emissions. They obviously fixed it and got it re-smogged.

JHTZ28

Yes, the "chech gages" light will appear when low on fuel. I would definitely have the seller add some fuel and see if the light goes away. If so, than that was the problem. If not, than it could be a few other things, I'm sure others can fill in here. Good luck...

Phobos

Thanks so much for the info guys, I really appreciate it....my only question left is in regards to the WS6. I know it's been covered a ton of times, but I haven't seen it put straight like this, that since I'd be willing to buy the hood later, and was going to change the wheels, springs/shocks, and exhaust anyway, that it makes sense *not* to buy the WS6...thoughts?

skytower31

iTrader: (4)

I think that makes sense. Especially with some of the awesome hoods available now through US Exotics! WS.6 with heat extractors, more aggressive Firehawk style...many options available. If you are comfortable with it, go for it!

02blackws679ta

meh, i would opt for a ws6, but im biased....you can add a hood and everything you want, just dont try to pass it off as a ws6 when its really not
i'm not saying performance would be any less or anything, but if it wasnt a ws6 from the dealership it never will be :shrug:

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Buy it.

AK's WS6

If I could do it again(knowing what I know about f-bodys now) I would just go with a regular TA and spend the extra 3grand on nice rims, lowering springs and shocks (the WS6 suspension is a joke) hood and some HP mods. Good luck!!

SSpeedracer

iTrader: (8)

Are you buying this from the owner? Whats his explaination? Did it fail/pass in CA or TX?

I purchased my SS used from SD and registered it in CA (1st time). No big deal as the emmissions equipment are identical for all f-bodies based on year of manufacture. No such thing as "Horse Power Robbing" CA emmissions.

I would pass on the car unless you can verify the reason for first failure. If this is from a dealer, I for sure would pass. The only way I might buy it would be after I tested it at a smog check myself. $35 for piece of mind.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

WS6 or not an LS1 T/A is an LS1 T/A. I've owned a '98 ws6 formula, and I now own a '00 T/A. The ws6 package is a nice way to make an easy extra $3k for the dealers. As its been said, if you truely don't care whether the vin reflects ws6, or whether you can find the ws6 option code on the door, then pocket the 3k and spend it later on more important stuff.