L33 5.3 build options/opinions
#1
L33 5.3 build options/opinions
Hey guys Im new to the forum. I'm looking for some opinions on a build I am planning. I sourced a 100% complete L33 5.3L engine with harness, ECU etc. It has 90k miles and it completely stock. I want to use this engine in a 73 Datsun 240z (~2400lbs) with a t56 trans. I am looking for 350-400whp for street fun and occasional road racing/autocross use so I want to stay NA. Any ideas/opinions on how to achieve my goal? This is a budget build and I might have already found an LS2 intake with injectors, gm hot cam, monster stage 2 clutch and a lightweight flywheel (18lbs). Ive been reading that the ASA cam may be a better choice..? Thanks for your input
#2
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#3
Restricted User
LS2 intake sucks. Its probably the worst of the LS intakes not counting the LS4.
GM Hot Cam/ASA cam are poor choices as well. People seem to think that these 2 cams work perfectly with the millions of combinations out there involving displacement, vehicle weight, intake/exhaust, head flow, compression, etc. The GM Hot cam might not be so bad, but trying to autocross a 5.3 with an ASA cam will be a lot of fun when you mash the pedal at 3000 RPM and nothing happens lol.
Is your engine an actual L33? The new trend around here is that every aluminum 5.3 is suddenly an L33, and then 95% of those people end up disappointed.
GM Hot Cam/ASA cam are poor choices as well. People seem to think that these 2 cams work perfectly with the millions of combinations out there involving displacement, vehicle weight, intake/exhaust, head flow, compression, etc. The GM Hot cam might not be so bad, but trying to autocross a 5.3 with an ASA cam will be a lot of fun when you mash the pedal at 3000 RPM and nothing happens lol.
Is your engine an actual L33? The new trend around here is that every aluminum 5.3 is suddenly an L33, and then 95% of those people end up disappointed.
#4
LS2 intake sucks. Its probably the worst of the LS intakes not counting the LS4.
GM Hot Cam/ASA cam are poor choices as well. People seem to think that these 2 cams work perfectly with the millions of combinations out there involving displacement, vehicle weight, intake/exhaust, head flow, compression, etc. The GM Hot cam might not be so bad, but trying to autocross a 5.3 with an ASA cam will be a lot of fun when you mash the pedal at 3000 RPM and nothing happens lol.
Is your engine an actual L33? The new trend around here is that every aluminum 5.3 is suddenly an L33, and then 95% of those people end up disappointed.
GM Hot Cam/ASA cam are poor choices as well. People seem to think that these 2 cams work perfectly with the millions of combinations out there involving displacement, vehicle weight, intake/exhaust, head flow, compression, etc. The GM Hot cam might not be so bad, but trying to autocross a 5.3 with an ASA cam will be a lot of fun when you mash the pedal at 3000 RPM and nothing happens lol.
Is your engine an actual L33? The new trend around here is that every aluminum 5.3 is suddenly an L33, and then 95% of those people end up disappointed.
Yes, it is definitely an L33. What other parts do you recommend? Again, I came across the mentioned parts for cheap and this is a budget build but I will do whatever I need to to achieve my goals.. Im also surprised at your opinion on the LS2 intake. I figured it would have to be better suited for what I want as opposed to the truck intake that's on it.
#5
Restricted User
LS1 and LS2 intakes perform similar. Throttle response is better on the LS2. LS6 performs better than either of them. Stock Gen 3 truck intake performs similar to LS6 with more torque down low and slightly less HP up top.
Gen 4 truck intake outperforms them all.
For hood clearance, you're stuck with a car intake.
Gen 4 truck intake outperforms them all.
For hood clearance, you're stuck with a car intake.
#6
Right I def need one of them for the clearance (and an fbody oil pan I guess) Do you recommend a custom grind cam?
Im assuming if I installed the engine just like it is (it is ready to run) It would have all low end power and torque and fall on its face pretty early in the rpm range..
Im assuming if I installed the engine just like it is (it is ready to run) It would have all low end power and torque and fall on its face pretty early in the rpm range..
#7
Restricted User
Gen 3 truck intake tops out 5000-5500 depending on which engine its on and starts to drop off. I wouldn't say 'fall on its face', since that usually implies that power drop off pretty hard. The power does start to decline a bit on the 5.3, but not enough to force you to shift early into the next gear (mechanical advantage is still higher after peak power than it is at peak power in the next gear). Usually, the stock truck intake can make huge top-end with the right camshaft.
This is a stock 5.3 LM7 on an engine dyno with electric water pump and headers.
Here it is with the stock truck intake, but with heads/cam. The stock truck intake is still pulling very hard past 6000 RPM with a mild cam. There is a guy here using a slightly larger cam (224/224) in a stock cube 6.0 with stock truck intake/throttle body running 7s in the quarter in a 3400 lb street car.
Decide where you want the most power, and pick a cam from there.
This is a stock 5.3 LM7 on an engine dyno with electric water pump and headers.
Here it is with the stock truck intake, but with heads/cam. The stock truck intake is still pulling very hard past 6000 RPM with a mild cam. There is a guy here using a slightly larger cam (224/224) in a stock cube 6.0 with stock truck intake/throttle body running 7s in the quarter in a 3400 lb street car.
Decide where you want the most power, and pick a cam from there.
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#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (24)
If you're on a budget just buy a cam from the classifieds here. Budget is a mute point everyone has a budget. The only way to make a small fortune in racing is to start with a large fortune. A 230ish cam, an LS6 intake, great headers, nice cold air charge and a free flowing exhaust will get you around 400. Remember, it's cheaper to do it right the first time.
#10
If you're on a budget just buy a cam from the classifieds here. Budget is a mute point everyone has a budget. The only way to make a small fortune in racing is to start with a large fortune. A 230ish cam, an LS6 intake, great headers, nice cold air charge and a free flowing exhaust will get you around 400. Remember, it's cheaper to do it right the first time.
Agree 100% and I do want it done right the first time. That's why Im asking for opinions from you guys. I guess I will begin looking for parts in the classifieds.
#11
Restricted User
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-190245-12
My go-to cam for a 5.3 that wants some mid-range grunt and to add another 1000 RPM to the useable powerband. You have 243/799 heads which flow great. Have them milled to bring compression up a little to compensate for the torque loss after the switch to a car intake, or switch to .040" head gaskets.
My go-to cam for a 5.3 that wants some mid-range grunt and to add another 1000 RPM to the useable powerband. You have 243/799 heads which flow great. Have them milled to bring compression up a little to compensate for the torque loss after the switch to a car intake, or switch to .040" head gaskets.
#12
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-190245-12
My go-to cam for a 5.3 that wants some mid-range grunt and to add another 1000 RPM to the useable powerband. You have 243/799 heads which flow great. Have them milled to bring compression up a little to compensate for the torque loss after the switch to a car intake, or switch to .040" head gaskets.
My go-to cam for a 5.3 that wants some mid-range grunt and to add another 1000 RPM to the useable powerband. You have 243/799 heads which flow great. Have them milled to bring compression up a little to compensate for the torque loss after the switch to a car intake, or switch to .040" head gaskets.
Have you seen any dyno graphs of an L33 with this cam?
#14
From what I can tell that cam you recommended is not a kit and doesn't come with the proper springs, etc.. Do you know which ones I should use?
Also, If I run the .040" gaskets, will I need to change anything else at all to make sure valvetrain is still legit?