Is this LS1 worth it?
03-31-2017, 05:31 PM
#1
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Is this LS1 worth it? So I am trying hard to find an engine for a good price, and I stumbled across a LS1 from a 98 camaro that supposedly has 110k on it and was running when pulled. He has it listed for $1400 but has had it up for like 2 months so I figured I could take a look at it and if it looks good offer him $1k. He's just about 20 minutes away from my house. It comes with all the front drive accessories and water pump, etc. Also comes with harness and PCM.
Does this seem like a good deal? Also if it does, is there any way I can verify it's a true LS1 and not a LM7 with a different intake? Still pretty new to this so want to be very careful, but I know that there's always risk involved in buying used parts. Any things I should do before purchasing it to test it? Any feedback helps and any insight. Thank you
Does this seem like a good deal? Also if it does, is there any way I can verify it's a true LS1 and not a LM7 with a different intake? Still pretty new to this so want to be very careful, but I know that there's always risk involved in buying used parts. Any things I should do before purchasing it to test it? Any feedback helps and any insight. Thank you
03-31-2017, 06:48 PM
#2
Why was it pulled?
Looks like the exhaust ports are uncovered. So the inside of Motor been sitting exposed to humidity and dust and dirt for two months. If it had the ports properly covered for storage that would be a good sign - they aren't covered. I appears to be missing a coil pack for #4 cylinder from what I see.
I bought a Motor like this many years ago. It was running when it was pulled. The open exhaust was a concern but I was assured it had just been pulled.
When checked for leak down it failed in two cylinders.
The water pump and alternator proved defective. On close inspection the balancer was damaged. The oil pan had a strange fitting attached. When my friend went to re-ring he found a replacement piston in #7. The motor had had a supercharger on it. That was what the funny oil pan fitting was for. The pistons, lifters, cam and rods were good for the recycle bin - it was all junk or not trust worthy for a rebuild. The block and heads were good along with the oil pan and front, rear, valve and Valley covers.
The motor turned out to be a good source for Parts and I was able to get some use out of it.
The seller had wrecked his Firehawk with 40,000 and his friend with a performance shop pulled the motor. So my 40,000 Motor ended up being the blown pile that had been in the performance shop's - shop car. The owner of the shop got a free low mile Motor. The seller didn't know. He just took the motor the shop gave him and put it on ls1 tech to sale. That was like 14 years ago.
Ironically when it was time to build my white RS a 383 LS this was the block the builder wanted to use - because it was as well seasoned as an LS1 block gets. My new LS6 block I'd planned to use is still waiting...
It took 14 years to get that bad LS1 take out engines turned into a running LS1 383 in my white RS. If the motor had been good it would have took 3-6 months.
So get the motor if you feel the seller is trustworthy.
Beware of what could be wrong based on my misadventures with used LS1 take out engines.
I'd call up Hawk's Motorsports or reputable used engine seller that will stand behind the engine and pay a little more if it was my decision.
Looks like the exhaust ports are uncovered. So the inside of Motor been sitting exposed to humidity and dust and dirt for two months. If it had the ports properly covered for storage that would be a good sign - they aren't covered. I appears to be missing a coil pack for #4 cylinder from what I see.
I bought a Motor like this many years ago. It was running when it was pulled. The open exhaust was a concern but I was assured it had just been pulled.
When checked for leak down it failed in two cylinders.
The water pump and alternator proved defective. On close inspection the balancer was damaged. The oil pan had a strange fitting attached. When my friend went to re-ring he found a replacement piston in #7. The motor had had a supercharger on it. That was what the funny oil pan fitting was for. The pistons, lifters, cam and rods were good for the recycle bin - it was all junk or not trust worthy for a rebuild. The block and heads were good along with the oil pan and front, rear, valve and Valley covers.
The motor turned out to be a good source for Parts and I was able to get some use out of it.
The seller had wrecked his Firehawk with 40,000 and his friend with a performance shop pulled the motor. So my 40,000 Motor ended up being the blown pile that had been in the performance shop's - shop car. The owner of the shop got a free low mile Motor. The seller didn't know. He just took the motor the shop gave him and put it on ls1 tech to sale. That was like 14 years ago.
Ironically when it was time to build my white RS a 383 LS this was the block the builder wanted to use - because it was as well seasoned as an LS1 block gets. My new LS6 block I'd planned to use is still waiting...
It took 14 years to get that bad LS1 take out engines turned into a running LS1 383 in my white RS. If the motor had been good it would have took 3-6 months.
So get the motor if you feel the seller is trustworthy.
Beware of what could be wrong based on my misadventures with used LS1 take out engines.
I'd call up Hawk's Motorsports or reputable used engine seller that will stand behind the engine and pay a little more if it was my decision.
03-31-2017, 10:40 PM
#5
TECH Resident
you can buy a 99-2000 iron 5.3-4.8 and bore it to 5.7, got a "iron" LS1 for abour500 bucks. he is asking too much for that engine just because it is a LS1. Lots more choices out there. FWIW...
03-31-2017, 10:43 PM
#6
Looks like an early ls1. Perimeter bolt heads, separate coil mounts. Check the block casting # at the left rear top of block. Search the number. Should be a displacement size cast in too. Left front and right rear faces I believe.
I don't know that I would buy an engine to use as a runner without seeing it run myself. I'm thinking you could likely do a leakdown test on a stand but it's not like seeing it run.
I don't know that I would buy an engine to use as a runner without seeing it run myself. I'm thinking you could likely do a leakdown test on a stand but it's not like seeing it run.
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04-06-2017, 01:25 PM
#9
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Why was it pulled?
Looks like the exhaust ports are uncovered. So the inside of Motor been sitting exposed to humidity and dust and dirt for two months. If it had the ports properly covered for storage that would be a good sign - they aren't covered. I appears to be missing a coil pack for #4 cylinder from what I see.
Looks like the exhaust ports are uncovered. So the inside of Motor been sitting exposed to humidity and dust and dirt for two months. If it had the ports properly covered for storage that would be a good sign - they aren't covered. I appears to be missing a coil pack for #4 cylinder from what I see.
04-06-2017, 04:53 PM
#11
theres nothing wrong with 98 engines , I have 2 of them one with 170k and one with 155k.
Before buying the engine maybe add up the value of it parted out if worst case it turns out to have an issue , f body front drive accessories , pcm ,harness , fuel rails ,valve covers , oil pan , cylinder heads , intake manifold ,throttle body ,etc... all have value then if your comfortable with the worst case scenario that may help your decision. Having the exhaust ports open to the elements isn't a great sign but plenty of engines have been fine after being left that way , if you could pull the plugs and rent a borescope to look in the cylinders that could help you determine if there was excessvie moisture in there , you would see rust , if you do walk away...pull the dipstick and look for signs of moisture ,coolant , metal in the oil , sunlight is helpful for seeing the sparkle of metal or a flashlight. Pull the oil fill cap and look at the underside of the cap to see if it is a foamy mess like there was a coolant/moisture issue and shine a flashlight down in the oil return areas of the cylinder heads to see if it is packed with sludge like it didn't see regular oil changes or clean like it has.
Before buying the engine maybe add up the value of it parted out if worst case it turns out to have an issue , f body front drive accessories , pcm ,harness , fuel rails ,valve covers , oil pan , cylinder heads , intake manifold ,throttle body ,etc... all have value then if your comfortable with the worst case scenario that may help your decision. Having the exhaust ports open to the elements isn't a great sign but plenty of engines have been fine after being left that way , if you could pull the plugs and rent a borescope to look in the cylinders that could help you determine if there was excessvie moisture in there , you would see rust , if you do walk away...pull the dipstick and look for signs of moisture ,coolant , metal in the oil , sunlight is helpful for seeing the sparkle of metal or a flashlight. Pull the oil fill cap and look at the underside of the cap to see if it is a foamy mess like there was a coolant/moisture issue and shine a flashlight down in the oil return areas of the cylinder heads to see if it is packed with sludge like it didn't see regular oil changes or clean like it has.
04-06-2017, 07:23 PM
#12
[QUOTE=murphinator;19585217]theres nothing wrong with 98 engines , I have 2 of them one with 170k and one with 155k./QUOTE]
I was mostly referring to the PCM, rod bolts, cylinder sleeves, different PCV/valve cover configuration, and the crappiest heads...all inferior to the 99+. They did have 28lb injectors and slightly bigger cam from the factory.
Just from my experience and others I know the 98 has spun a rod bearing quicker than the others (could just be poor maintenance). Just my $.02
If it were me... I'd be looking for an 01-02.
I was mostly referring to the PCM, rod bolts, cylinder sleeves, different PCV/valve cover configuration, and the crappiest heads...all inferior to the 99+. They did have 28lb injectors and slightly bigger cam from the factory.
Just from my experience and others I know the 98 has spun a rod bearing quicker than the others (could just be poor maintenance). Just my $.02
If it were me... I'd be looking for an 01-02.