Oil
 

WHAT TYPE OF OIL WOULD YOU ALL RECOMMEND FOR A PRETTY MUCH STOCK LS1? BRAND, WEIGHT, ETC. :rice

mobile 1 20w50 if you plan to run it hard.

amsoil 5w30:D

thats way too heavy!

Mobil 1 5w30

the higher the weight the more work initially for the oil to circulate..
I would only run 20w50 in my porsche which was at 4K rpm just cruising.
my LS1 sits at under 2K cruising so that would be too thick of an oil to run.

If you do use synthetic dont feel the urge to change every 3K miles. Thats only for conventional oil not synthetic which your engine will love. I have gone so far over 9k miles on 1 oil change..

Here is my schedule of oil changes so far:

Date:9/22/2002 Milage:4225 Miles traveled: 4225 Oil Used:Mobil 1
Date:1/4/2003 Milage:9100 Miles traveled: 4875 Oil Used:Amsoil all around (engine, tranny and rear)
Date:3/24/2003 Milage:16520 Miles traveled:7420 Oil Used:Amsoil
Date:8/5/2003 Milage:24459 Miles traveled:7939 Oil Used:Amsoil / Mobil 1 mix
Date:2/4/2004 Milage:34232 Miles traveled:9773 Oil Used:Mobil 1

I've always used Mobil 1 5W30. Havn't found a good reason to switch to anything else yet.

Same here always Mobil 1 5W30. No problems so far and 50K on the clock. I only burn oil when I race.

The problem with M1's 5w30 is it's too thin. It's on the low end of the 30wt range, so if you routinely get 250+ degree oil temps, you're running with oil that is much thinner and won't protect as well. M1's 0w40 is the better choice over the 5w30.

So Synthetic Oil Isn't Necessary?

I have been using the full syn Mobil 1 5w30 for over a year and change it every 3k whether it is needed or not. I also use the Mobil 1 oil filter. My goal is cleaner and better lubrication for a longer engine life and I am not too concerned about cost since oil is cheaper than an engine. :cool:

10w30 or 5w 30 gonna have higher oil pressure or will it not matter ?

5w30 and as ActionJack said I'd rather change it sooner than later because these engines cost more than 5 quartz of oil.

Patman is a wealth of info. I would never use 5w30 after talking to Patman and doing some research, too thin and the non-syn stuff is going to make things worse.

I have since switched from 5w30 non syn to 0w40 super syn, I rev the car alot higher now and I burn a fraction of the oil I used to with 5w30.

Listen to Patman, he has done research on this subject like you wouldnt believe.

Castrol Synthetic 0w30 German made is a good choice.

definetly go with the 0w40 super synthetic. I just got my car, but I plan to do an oil change on it when i get back.

Patman has spoken! hehe

Actually I value Patman because he actually does research!

Patman, what mileage do you recommend for changes?
I have been going by the oil change light.

I beleive that is 7500 miles??? :confused:

I'll have to try the 0W40 Super Syn. My car routinly runs at a higher rmp during normal driving because of the torque converter so I bet my oil temps are up there. Hopefully I'll see less oil consumption too. :)

It's hard to make an exact blanket statement for oil changes because your driving habits and climate play a huge factor in it. But it's safe to say that 5 to 6000 miles is a totally safe number. For me I feel safe going beyond 6000 miles if all of my driving is done in warmer weather, but in the colder months I wouldn't push my intervals that far, I'd keep it closer to 5000 miles. This is where oil analysis really helps you out, as it allows you to pinpoint a safe interval for your engine and driving situation.

ahh I see.. I am in TX so we get like 1 month total of cold.. and even then my cold and your cold are day and night.. My cold is 30 degrees or so..
yours is probably very different.

I have been going some crazy miles... Ill finish out this run and change for that 0-w40.

Yep, my cold months mean a couple of mornings where it's close to or below 0F, with most mornings in the winter being 20F or less, and not going above 30 for days at a time. During these months the oil takes more of a beating. Another reason for that is because they put down tons of road salt, so that makes it's way past the air filter and ends up in the oil. You can see the sodium level (in oil analysis) go from 0 ppm in summer, up to 30 ppm in winter. And silicon (dirt) shows higher too.