Firebird_lsx

Well let me put it this way- it was $225 because it already had a tune but the tune that was on it, I could hardly drive the car without it trying to die. Tuner wouldn't call me back. Pretty big name out here- James Krager.

So I talked to another tuner. Small town around me in Alvarado, TX. He fixed me up well.
He usually charges $450. But he works with people. and he gives free adjustments if need be. He only charges for another tune if you lets say have a cammed TA and decided to go turbo. As long as you stay just cammed or swap an intake etc it will be free.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

difficult to do mods if it's an 'only vehicle'. I would've voted for a Yank SS3600 convertor.

ironmikektm525

I agree on both

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...ne-people.html
Post #1 and #6

JoeNova

Then don't start modding it.

Uziguy18

iTrader: (1)

I want and need to do a tune. Did you ever hear back from him to see if he has a street tune package. (I think that’s what it’s called) instead of the dyno. Or is 500$ just going to be what it will take to have some type of tune done?

Uziguy18

iTrader: (1)

Don’t start modding my car because I don’t have a week to do a mail order tune?

Thank you for your contribution.

JoeNova

At some point in modding your car, there will be a hang up.
Last year I went through the MAJOR hassle with a guy that wanted a tubular K-member, BMR crossmember, 4L80e swap, 98 PCM converted to 99+, and then started making threatening phone calls about how this was his only car (which he never told me before).

Get a cheap beater to drive. Make a good decision.

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

JoeNova is right. Also, so many times I've heard stories (happened to myself and a few personal friends as well) about a car not running right after a ~$500, so-called, full dyno/street tune to where the car absolutely needed to be re-tuned afterwards. Sometimes it can be difficult to find a tuner that actually gives a **** about making sure your car's tune is spot on and everything actually runs right. Definitely not something you want to happen to your only vehicle you have access to. Do some research and ask people who have personal experience regarding a tuner you have in mind.

98CayenneT/A

To add a bit to JoeNova and R6cowboy,
when modding even the simplest mods can throw a wrench at ya. Something as simple as a intake swap can lead to vacuum leaks and wiring gremlins. Converter installs are simple but people crack the pump all the time from wrong engagement on the input shaft. Lt headers can lead to broken bolt in head ect.

Just a few examples but I agree with them. Better to be prepared for a mishap then to be **** out of luck.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

IMO the best advice was mentioned above...get a beater for a daily driver. Doing anything here, and having it be your only car/daily driver, is just not a sound idea

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

I didn't get a street tune price from him. Remember, he is charged a "credit" and his dyno fee is included in the $500. He is very thorough and doesn't rush anything. That is why he is the only person who will touch my car (he found stuff he didn't like in my old tune by "the other famous local tuner"). He spent 6 hours on mine, granted it was starting completely over for the H/C/I/Nitrous set-up. Caveat: There is always a chance something can happen when wringing a 20yo car out on the dyno (or street). But he will check you parameters before doing the first pull.
To the other comments on here, they are all good and up to you to consider.
IMHO
-A converter doesn't install itself, it isn't "hard" but it also isn't fun! Things can happen (cracked pump) and should be tuned as well
-The mods are already installed so no issues with broken bolts, etc
-You are running around (now 2years+) on, more than likely, a lean condition. A tune will put you in the safe category with mpg and a little more hp to boot.

The do nothing option may be your best bet (you will be driving around un-optimized). Continue to save until you can do cam, intake, converter and tune.

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

Here is my car on a "simulated" 1/4 mi pull on his Mustang Dyno
N20 all in through the shifts.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

OP...whats done to the car currently, anything? I do street tuning only and may be able to help, but I'm on the other coast.

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

Only what's in his sig.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Thanks didnt see that.

If he's willing to make the drive over my way I can either:

A) Do a regular base tune that includes all the normal stuff that should be changed short of wideband tuning, i.e. spark table, PE enrichment, trans tables, rev limiter, turning off codes, etc.-$250

B) All of the above in addition to MAF/VE street tuning- $375

Uziguy18

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the in depth reply. That is the main reason I was wanting to do it was to make sure the car is safe and picking up a few ponies is never bad. Do you know if he is one of those tuners that has discounts for tunes after your first Initial tune?

Uziguy18

iTrader: (1)

To everyone else thanks for the replies. I am not doing any type of major mods rights now do to funds. I understand when you start tearing down the car it would be a good choice to have a “just in case Car”. I understand that anything can/could go wrong even with the most simple task but it is the risk that at least I take/took to do the small things I have done to my car.

ghardester

Well, it won't make it sound louder and won't add more HP, but you are going to want to do this anyway when you can afford more HP. Or even before that. And it is right in your budget, with change.

Replace the stock rear lower control arms and panhard bar with a tubular set with grease able fittings and solid poly bushings. Really tightens the rear up. The stock LCAs are not grease able and have spaces where road sand gets in and eats up the bushings. That is why I did mine, the LCA bushings were shot and causing a mystery noise. This will plant your rear tires firmly on the ground for that someday horsepower or converter.

Shop BMR or UMI, they sell LCA and panhards as a set. I just did mine with UMI but the sets are very close in price. And I bought new bolts even though I didn't really need to, the old ones were fine. You don't need an adjustable panhard bar unless you are doing more rear end stuff.

About $300 total and about 3 hours for a 60 year old guy to do in between beers on Saturday. Instructions said 30 minutes but I don't think they included jacking up etc. And it is as simple as unbolting the old and installing the new. There are steps to follow but that is about it.

Then you are more ready for that extra HP when you can.

If you have already done these, I didn't see it in your sig.

Uziguy18

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the offer. Truthfully I don’t think I would ever drive this car that far. Especially with how people said if there was an issue that’s a far drive to have to make again. But that is around what I was hoping to spend on a tune package.