Just got a ws6. First things to do questions
06-18-2018, 07:35 AM
#21
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Yes, that's the factory setup. As you already discovered, that flattened part of the Y-pipe on the driver's side is how it came stock. That "black piece" is the factory tunnel brace, and the larger round pipe that connects to the Y-pipe is the factory "I-pipe" (intermediate pipe). That definitely appears to be the stock I-pipe as you can see where it slightly flares out in diameter just before the connection point near the band clamp (to slip over the Y-pipe). Most aftermarket systems use a larger 3" diameter I-pipe (vs. 2.75" stock).
06-18-2018, 01:30 PM
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The only "factory" upgrade system that actually offered any real performance gain was the SLP dual/dual catback (optional for SS cars, standard on Firehawk); this system is just as good as an aftermarket catback, and definitely better than the base V8 or base SS/WS6 system, but it was not offered on the WS6 model.
06-18-2018, 03:55 PM
#23
Congratulations on the WS6 and welcome to the forum.
Excellent advice on thd power steering cooler. Friend and it fail. The mix of coolant & PS fluid killed the PS pump.
Coolant flush is a great idea. Changing transmission fluid & filter too.
Check the differential / rear end for leaks. It's common for the pinion seal to leak. If it's leaking get the level checked and topped off. Of the half dozen 3rd & 4th Gen fbody cars I've had - all leaked from the pinion seal at some point. Be sure to check the rear for leaks at each oil change. If it leaks check the level and top it off.
Regarding plugs, my 99 TA was bought new and came from the factory with the NGK plugs gapped all over the place. Basically no two plugs had the same gap when we pulled them at 4,000 miles. The gaps ranged from .054 to .062. Doing plugs can be a fun little project. Install university had a good illustrated write up if you decide to do. I wouldn't pay to have the plugs some at 50k miles but they can be a fun side project if you and or a friend that's mechanically inclined.
Unlike most 4th Gen's such my base model TA & Z28, the WS6 cars with low to moderate miles have the potential to appreciate in value. The new ceramic coatings that can really help protect the paint might be worth considering.
Excellent advice on thd power steering cooler. Friend and it fail. The mix of coolant & PS fluid killed the PS pump.
Coolant flush is a great idea. Changing transmission fluid & filter too.
Check the differential / rear end for leaks. It's common for the pinion seal to leak. If it's leaking get the level checked and topped off. Of the half dozen 3rd & 4th Gen fbody cars I've had - all leaked from the pinion seal at some point. Be sure to check the rear for leaks at each oil change. If it leaks check the level and top it off.
Regarding plugs, my 99 TA was bought new and came from the factory with the NGK plugs gapped all over the place. Basically no two plugs had the same gap when we pulled them at 4,000 miles. The gaps ranged from .054 to .062. Doing plugs can be a fun little project. Install university had a good illustrated write up if you decide to do. I wouldn't pay to have the plugs some at 50k miles but they can be a fun side project if you and or a friend that's mechanically inclined.
Unlike most 4th Gen's such my base model TA & Z28, the WS6 cars with low to moderate miles have the potential to appreciate in value. The new ceramic coatings that can really help protect the paint might be worth considering.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 06-18-2018 at 04:06 PM.
06-18-2018, 06:09 PM
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Congratulations on the WS6 and welcome to the forum.
Excellent advice on thd power steering cooler. Friend and it fail. The mix of coolant & PS fluid killed the PS pump.
Coolant flush is a great idea. Changing transmission fluid & filter too.
Check the differential / rear end for leaks. It's common for the pinion seal to leak. If it's leaking get the level checked and topped off. Of the half dozen 3rd & 4th Gen fbody cars I've had - all leaked from the pinion seal at some point. Be sure to check the rear for leaks at each oil change. If it leaks check the level and top it off.
Regarding plugs, my 99 TA was bought new and came from the factory with the NGK plugs gapped all over the place. Basically no two plugs had the same gap when we pulled them at 4,000 miles. The gaps ranged from .054 to .062. Doing plugs can be a fun little project. Install university had a good illustrated write up if you decide to do. I wouldn't pay to have the plugs some at 50k miles but they can be a fun side project if you and or a friend that's mechanically inclined.
Unlike most 4th Gen's such my base model TA & Z28, the WS6 cars with low to moderate miles have the potential to appreciate in value. The new ceramic coatings that can really help protect the paint might be worth considering.
Excellent advice on thd power steering cooler. Friend and it fail. The mix of coolant & PS fluid killed the PS pump.
Coolant flush is a great idea. Changing transmission fluid & filter too.
Check the differential / rear end for leaks. It's common for the pinion seal to leak. If it's leaking get the level checked and topped off. Of the half dozen 3rd & 4th Gen fbody cars I've had - all leaked from the pinion seal at some point. Be sure to check the rear for leaks at each oil change. If it leaks check the level and top it off.
Regarding plugs, my 99 TA was bought new and came from the factory with the NGK plugs gapped all over the place. Basically no two plugs had the same gap when we pulled them at 4,000 miles. The gaps ranged from .054 to .062. Doing plugs can be a fun little project. Install university had a good illustrated write up if you decide to do. I wouldn't pay to have the plugs some at 50k miles but they can be a fun side project if you and or a friend that's mechanically inclined.
Unlike most 4th Gen's such my base model TA & Z28, the WS6 cars with low to moderate miles have the potential to appreciate in value. The new ceramic coatings that can really help protect the paint might be worth considering.
I checked the crap out of the rear end when I bought it because I heard that can become a problem. So right now that's all good without leaks. Any way to prevent it from leaking?
recommend any specific type of coolant? I had dexacool eat through my intake manifold gaskets on my gtp years ago.
06-18-2018, 07:42 PM
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Dexcool itself doesn't cause any issues on LS1 engines; problems only crop up if the coolant is too old (poor maintenance practices), leaks are left unattended (allowing low coolant conditions and excessive air intrusion), coolant types are mixed which shouldn't be, and/or questionable water is used.
Keep it changed on the proper interval, used distilled water, don't allow the system to run low, and you won't have any Dexcool issues with an LS1. My '98 is 20 years old now with all its assembly line original cooling system components and gaskets, no leaks and no issues. Dexcool since day one, maintained properly.
Keep it changed on the proper interval, used distilled water, don't allow the system to run low, and you won't have any Dexcool issues with an LS1. My '98 is 20 years old now with all its assembly line original cooling system components and gaskets, no leaks and no issues. Dexcool since day one, maintained properly.
06-19-2018, 04:58 PM
#27
Ricky,
The old issues with Dex-Cool were failing to change it when called for, letting and leaving air in the system and a gasket material GM used that reacted over time with Dex-Cool. A lot of 3.8 liter engines had the gaskets that reacted. I have friends that have ran Dex-Cool for 18+ years with no issues. They do change the coolant when it's called for per owners manual
Back when the Dex-Cool issues appeared, I knee jerk reacted and had my TA flushed and switched to the universal green stuff. My car had 100% original cooling system except for a 160 thermostat for the heads and cam package until 2017 when the car got a new 416. Never had any issues with the universal green.
Knowing and understanding the details now, my 91 RS has Dex-Cool and I don't worry about that.
G05 is my pet favorite coolant but it's expensive. My 72 vette runs it. It is less reactive and the vette's engine builder prefered G05 for engines with iron blocks & aluminum heads for some arcane reason. Otherwise, his view was just do the coolant flushes and change it when called for regardless of if it's greed or Dex-Cool.
Regarding transmission oil change for the T56 here my view and practice - it should probably be done at 100,000 milestone if the car is driven normally.
FWIW - over 165,000 miles my 99 TA the manual transmission oil changed several times for peace of mind and because I like to fiddle with tweaking the car. Usually every 40,000 miles or so. Some will say excessive but the car was driven hard.
The Dextron III is what GM recommends for our fbody T56 and it works very well. Dextron III is always a good choice and a safe choice.
Long time ago GM recommended syncromesh transmission oil for manual transmissions. That's probably a hassle for the dealership to inventory and keep in stock. Very few newer cars have manual transmissions and almost no one changes the oil in a manual transmission. Dextron III makes good sense because it can be used in the automatics and the newer manuals like the T56.
The T56 for 98-00 if I recall correctly have paper synchronizers and some non Dexton III fluids can damage them. Mobile 1 is said to be hard on the paper synchronizers. The T56 for 01-02 has carbon fiber synchronizers that are far more durable. In any case all the T56's feel a little unrefined in the way they shift and drive in my opinion. So I tried several transmission oils in my 99 TA.
Dextron III - shifts fair, easy to get, affordable only $24.50 a gallon.
Mobile 1 ATF - worked good, warmed up shifting felt better to me. No issues experienced. Some say in very cold weather the M1 doesn't shift as well as the Dextron III. $10.50 a quart.
Pennzoil Synchromesh - excellent, warm or cold shifted excellent. Felt better than M1 ATF or Dextron III. $8.50 a quart. In my opinion Pennzoil Synchromesh is the best bang for the buck in improving feel.
Royal Purple Synchro-Max - always felt RP was 100% hot air and hype after seeing some actual dyno tests of their oils many years ago. Had to revise my opinion after trying Synchro-Max. Shift best warm or cold. Or at least I imagined it did after paying $21 a quart for it.
The old issues with Dex-Cool were failing to change it when called for, letting and leaving air in the system and a gasket material GM used that reacted over time with Dex-Cool. A lot of 3.8 liter engines had the gaskets that reacted. I have friends that have ran Dex-Cool for 18+ years with no issues. They do change the coolant when it's called for per owners manual
Back when the Dex-Cool issues appeared, I knee jerk reacted and had my TA flushed and switched to the universal green stuff. My car had 100% original cooling system except for a 160 thermostat for the heads and cam package until 2017 when the car got a new 416. Never had any issues with the universal green.
Knowing and understanding the details now, my 91 RS has Dex-Cool and I don't worry about that.
G05 is my pet favorite coolant but it's expensive. My 72 vette runs it. It is less reactive and the vette's engine builder prefered G05 for engines with iron blocks & aluminum heads for some arcane reason. Otherwise, his view was just do the coolant flushes and change it when called for regardless of if it's greed or Dex-Cool.
Regarding transmission oil change for the T56 here my view and practice - it should probably be done at 100,000 milestone if the car is driven normally.
FWIW - over 165,000 miles my 99 TA the manual transmission oil changed several times for peace of mind and because I like to fiddle with tweaking the car. Usually every 40,000 miles or so. Some will say excessive but the car was driven hard.
The Dextron III is what GM recommends for our fbody T56 and it works very well. Dextron III is always a good choice and a safe choice.
Long time ago GM recommended syncromesh transmission oil for manual transmissions. That's probably a hassle for the dealership to inventory and keep in stock. Very few newer cars have manual transmissions and almost no one changes the oil in a manual transmission. Dextron III makes good sense because it can be used in the automatics and the newer manuals like the T56.
The T56 for 98-00 if I recall correctly have paper synchronizers and some non Dexton III fluids can damage them. Mobile 1 is said to be hard on the paper synchronizers. The T56 for 01-02 has carbon fiber synchronizers that are far more durable. In any case all the T56's feel a little unrefined in the way they shift and drive in my opinion. So I tried several transmission oils in my 99 TA.
Dextron III - shifts fair, easy to get, affordable only $24.50 a gallon.
Mobile 1 ATF - worked good, warmed up shifting felt better to me. No issues experienced. Some say in very cold weather the M1 doesn't shift as well as the Dextron III. $10.50 a quart.
Pennzoil Synchromesh - excellent, warm or cold shifted excellent. Felt better than M1 ATF or Dextron III. $8.50 a quart. In my opinion Pennzoil Synchromesh is the best bang for the buck in improving feel.
Royal Purple Synchro-Max - always felt RP was 100% hot air and hype after seeing some actual dyno tests of their oils many years ago. Had to revise my opinion after trying Synchro-Max. Shift best warm or cold. Or at least I imagined it did after paying $21 a quart for it.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 06-20-2018 at 09:38 PM.
06-19-2018, 05:22 PM
#28
Some great information in this thread, thank you Blackbird and RPM.
I've been looking at flushing the coolant in my 99.
Car runs super cool, only looks a little gummy, but not sure if its ever been done and I want to be sure.
Never heard of the Syncromesh before....interesting.
I've been looking at flushing the coolant in my 99.
Car runs super cool, only looks a little gummy, but not sure if its ever been done and I want to be sure.
Never heard of the Syncromesh before....interesting.