Should i fully rebuild or no?
#1
Should i fully rebuild or no?
I'm planning on buying a used ls motor for my dads 69 chevelle as a surprise. I'm extremely new to the game, but already have an idea of what to get. I was thinking of an aluminum block 6.2 or an lq4 with heads and cam. I'd like to keep the price low, but am willing to spend money for durability, longevity, and power. Id like the motor to make at least 600 to 650 na. Not planning to boost simply for price and simplicity. I can be easily swayed on anything, so I'm all ears for any suggestions. My main question, however, is wheather or not to rebuild the motor completely. I haven't been actively looking for motors to buy, yet, so i have no idea what I'll come across. Will rebuilding increase it's longevity? Or is it not worth the extra dough? Any parts worth replacing, or will it last as is? I should also mention that my dad will actively try to blow up the motor and will leave it in the blistering cold weather.
This is my first question on any forum and id like to thank any one who responds in advance.
This is my first question on any forum and id like to thank any one who responds in advance.
#2
What's the budget? A 6.2 prob won't be very cheap etc. Lq4 you can find fairly cheap. It all depends on the mileage and condition the motor is in when you get it. LS motors are very strong and last a long time if they have regular oil changes etc.
#4
TECH Addict
The Iron motors are way easier to find, and cheaper. (Budget is your call.. )
If its a full. loaded street car, the weight is probably less of a deal?
Most folks seem to consider anything under 125K a runner..
As long as its clean inside. Make the seller pull the valve covers..
Oh and for 25K your buying a lot of motor,, your in high country..
If I had 25K I'd call a reputable source builder and ask for a quote for a
600HP NA , Street/Strip motor and see what they say,
The builder can get all the parts.. Or,, for about 22K you can get a LS9
straight from the dealer (638Hp/604 Foot lbs.. ).. There is a wide range of pricing,
they have some LS9 crate motors in the pipeline that are supercharged, and set
up to be installed in non standard situations.. (Dont forget to factor in the install cost.. )
For half that price they have crates that do 530 or so...
With a cooperative dealer some of the crate motors even have a warrantee..
At lease as far as the curb... LOL
If its a full. loaded street car, the weight is probably less of a deal?
Most folks seem to consider anything under 125K a runner..
As long as its clean inside. Make the seller pull the valve covers..
Oh and for 25K your buying a lot of motor,, your in high country..
If I had 25K I'd call a reputable source builder and ask for a quote for a
600HP NA , Street/Strip motor and see what they say,
The builder can get all the parts.. Or,, for about 22K you can get a LS9
straight from the dealer (638Hp/604 Foot lbs.. ).. There is a wide range of pricing,
they have some LS9 crate motors in the pipeline that are supercharged, and set
up to be installed in non standard situations.. (Dont forget to factor in the install cost.. )
For half that price they have crates that do 530 or so...
With a cooperative dealer some of the crate motors even have a warrantee..
At lease as far as the curb... LOL
#5
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
600na isnt going to happen with stock cubic inch and stock heads first off. We have all the parts you need for it, but set a budget first, then a goal. Youre going to spend a mint just trying to get a 6.2 setup in the first place and its not going to gain you that much vs going a different direction.
You can bore a 6.0 to a 6.2 cid and still be economical. You can find quite a few 6.0s with super high mileage or even in poor repair for a great price, then use our complete rebuild kit to make it whatever cid you want for a great budget then focus on the heads and cam. Lots of options there.
Youre going to get yourself stuck on the wrong end of a build tossing around that kind of money. Set the budget reasonable and work up if necessary. Blowing your wad all at once is never a good thing.
You can bore a 6.0 to a 6.2 cid and still be economical. You can find quite a few 6.0s with super high mileage or even in poor repair for a great price, then use our complete rebuild kit to make it whatever cid you want for a great budget then focus on the heads and cam. Lots of options there.
Youre going to get yourself stuck on the wrong end of a build tossing around that kind of money. Set the budget reasonable and work up if necessary. Blowing your wad all at once is never a good thing.
#7
TECH Fanatic
Are you certain your Dad will want 600 horsepower? I'd start with an inexpensive, low mileage (maybe 150,000 miles) 5.3 VORTEC truck motor because they are abundant in the junk yards. Maybe $600-800 with many, many thousands of reliable miles remaining. Get the transmission with it plus its mated Powertrain Control Module for an easier swap, another 400 bucks maybe. Less, for both of these if you pull them yourself.
Then stick with all Holley parts for their forward bias engine mounts, oil pan and headers purposefully built for A-body cars such as your 69 Chevelle. I have these in my 70 El Camino with absolutely zero regrets and ease of swap. Repin the donor vehicle wiring harness yourself into your Chevelle to save money. These parts will be reusable later if he does want 600 HP so little to no money wasted and you can get the kinks worked out (drive shaft length, radiator fans, etc) using the less expensive motor first.
Then sell the verified running 5.3 liter engine for way more than you paid for it.
Rick
Then stick with all Holley parts for their forward bias engine mounts, oil pan and headers purposefully built for A-body cars such as your 69 Chevelle. I have these in my 70 El Camino with absolutely zero regrets and ease of swap. Repin the donor vehicle wiring harness yourself into your Chevelle to save money. These parts will be reusable later if he does want 600 HP so little to no money wasted and you can get the kinks worked out (drive shaft length, radiator fans, etc) using the less expensive motor first.
Then sell the verified running 5.3 liter engine for way more than you paid for it.
Rick
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Is the plan to go with fuel injection or carb for the 69 Chevelle?
At 25k budget there are a lot of options. If I wanted 600-700 whp NA, I would consider one of Erik Koenig's 454 LS long blocks of Horsepower Research. The long block would be less than half your budget. Erik was an instructor at School of Automotive Machinist and definitely knows the ins and outs of the LS format engines. Erik can do stuff everyone else says is impossible He also has a 527 LS that can make ~750 wheel hp NA.
There would still be needs for intake manifold, wiring harness, oil pan, covers, carb, coils, fuel injection system and so on. I'd call HPR and discuss the build. It might be worthwhile to get a take out engine for the accessories, brackets, etc because fully dressing a long block with new parts can eat $3,500 easily.
Likewise, LPE aka Lingenfelter, VE aka Vengeance Racing, Reher-Morrison & BES aka Bischoff Engine Service would be at the top of my list. Reher did my 416's heads & baby cam, Darin Morgan is A+. Lingenfelter has always been outstanding in helping me with small ticket and big ticket items since 1999 and one of my all-time favorite vendors. VR likewise has been fantastic. I've talked with BES about doing my next engine build and they have a well earned fantastic reputation.
Texas Speed, Thompson Motorsports and many other LS1TECH sponsor's have excellent reputations and are well worth talking too.
WS6 Store was a fantastic help when doing my ERL 416 last year and I highly recommend them. Excellent customer service and very knowledgeable. I've used WS6 Store as my prime parts vendor since my first LS1 heads & cam package back in 2002.
Good Luck with build and I look forward to reading about your dad's Chevelle.
At 25k budget there are a lot of options. If I wanted 600-700 whp NA, I would consider one of Erik Koenig's 454 LS long blocks of Horsepower Research. The long block would be less than half your budget. Erik was an instructor at School of Automotive Machinist and definitely knows the ins and outs of the LS format engines. Erik can do stuff everyone else says is impossible He also has a 527 LS that can make ~750 wheel hp NA.
There would still be needs for intake manifold, wiring harness, oil pan, covers, carb, coils, fuel injection system and so on. I'd call HPR and discuss the build. It might be worthwhile to get a take out engine for the accessories, brackets, etc because fully dressing a long block with new parts can eat $3,500 easily.
Likewise, LPE aka Lingenfelter, VE aka Vengeance Racing, Reher-Morrison & BES aka Bischoff Engine Service would be at the top of my list. Reher did my 416's heads & baby cam, Darin Morgan is A+. Lingenfelter has always been outstanding in helping me with small ticket and big ticket items since 1999 and one of my all-time favorite vendors. VR likewise has been fantastic. I've talked with BES about doing my next engine build and they have a well earned fantastic reputation.
Texas Speed, Thompson Motorsports and many other LS1TECH sponsor's have excellent reputations and are well worth talking too.
WS6 Store was a fantastic help when doing my ERL 416 last year and I highly recommend them. Excellent customer service and very knowledgeable. I've used WS6 Store as my prime parts vendor since my first LS1 heads & cam package back in 2002.
Good Luck with build and I look forward to reading about your dad's Chevelle.