toofless916

any suggestions on what i should do on my 99 T/A A4???...(whats the first mod that should be done?)

conan

iTrader: (5)

A lid, catback, intake mainifold, header, air filter, TB, subframes.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139142

shouldaboughttheZ

iTrader: (8)

that pretty much covers it.

rgaynor85

scrap the air filter your stock one is fine, put subframes first on the list with the lid then headers then i would do the intake after that

JoeyAnderson

iTrader: (20)

Heads and cam.

Bolt ons are for beginners...

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

You're going to set him off on the wrong track. Putting AFR's and an EDC cam in with stock manifolds and cats would be a tragedy.

He needs to get his bolt-on......on, then move to internals.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

What's wrong with you guys? Always the first thing mentioned for an A4 is a stall (and trans cooler) Y'all are slipping
Get the stall, then lid, catback, headers, SFCs ported TB, then go for the LS6 (or Fast) intake, then get the heads and cam

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Lithium

iTrader: (47)

First off wow.

A stall is a must.

bichin95redta

Gears.

When I had my '95 Trans Am (A4), I had the following bolt-ons/mods:
Granatelli MAF
Moroso CAI
Flowmaster cat-back (yeah, yeah, yeah....I know, "Flowmaster sucks"...I happen to disagree, but that's another post)
LT4 knock module
160* thermostat
Hyper-Tech

The car sounded great, and performance picked up just enough to be noticeable. Then I did the rear-end....Eaton posi/Richmond Gear 3:73's. Wow! That woke 'er right up! With no headers, she ran a best 1/4 of 13.8. God, I miss that car! If it had been an M6, I'd still have it. I like LT-1's.........

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I would go with exhaust, lid, ported TB, free mods and converter at the same time if possible. The verter will give you the best SOTP gain of all the bolt ons.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

if you have 323 gears i'd leave them alone...if you have 273 gears i would leave them alone. GET A CONVERTER!! then get a lid + full exhaust, then a GOOD tune. those 4 items alone will make your car capable of low 12 second passes, barring your use of street tires.

Redneck Z

iTrader: (3)

I agree. A stall helped my friends e.t. go from a 13.0, to a 12.4 with only a lid and catback. I'd say for an auto= lid, catback and then stall.

Ric

What do you mean by REAL mod??? If something more casual, then go with a catback, headers, intake... something like that. If you're seriously wanting to go hardcore and money is no issue(I HATE being broke ), then do about a 3600-stall torque converter. While you're under the car, do LTs, a catback(or duals), and SFCs. If you're REALLY well-off, go ahead and swap the 10-bolt out for a Dana 60 with 3.73s and either a TrueTrac or a Detroit Locker... it'll be your last rear axle... EVER.

Oh, you'll need a stouter driveshaft, too.

Jon B.

iTrader: (5)

I don't think subframes should be first on anyones list. I agree with the stall though.

Jon

bichin95redta

Once you're done with your bolt-ons, anything after that, if you choose to go that far, will probably be either a power-adder, or an engine mod...heads, cam, intake, yadda, yadda, yadda. Yes, a stall will tremendously improve the performance of your transmission, but remember what you're bolting it up to. This is no dis to guys running OEM A4's, but you're going to put just so much power through a 4L60e...I don't care what kind/how big your converter is. When used in a high-performance, or heavy tow vehicle application, the 4L60e has proven, time and again, that the OEM internals suck canal water.

Genesis_26317

iTrader: (2)

Try getting 35mm front 25mm rear sway bars, springs and shocks, and a new control arm. (maybe smaller rear but I like the big boy back there plus it is hollow, and if you have oversteer get adjustable front shocks so you can balance it out)

That way you can have some really noticably fun and not get a speeding ticket. I had a LOT more fun with basic suspension upgrades over having to worry about SES lights etc, etc, etc, and passing a sniffer inspection.

Stupid freakin' front O2 sensors not heating up fast enough..... grrrrr, they can't be happy with actually functioning cats, EGR, and AIR everything passes except for the SES light and they still freak out.

Though if you don't have to worry about a sniffer test than ignore the above paragraph, stupid 99's and their EGR.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Converter for sure. Nothing else will make such a profound difference...except the 150 shot of nitrous

ohsofast

iTrader: (6)

In an automatic, torque converter is the best thing. That will be your first mod.

toofless916

so a torque converter it is then...all the posts i have received have pointed to that direction...so it shall be done...any suggestions on which torque converter to pick up and slap on while we are on the subject??