Rear End Limited Slip?
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Rear End Limited Slip?
Howdy! I got my car about a month ago and have taken it easy as shes my baby but it had really crappy tires so i burned them off about a week ago before getting my michelin pilot sports. When i was burning them off it seemed like there was only a dark line of rubber on the passenger side of the car and not two black marks...what gives?!? car has about 78k miles on it and the guy before me never raced, as its bone stock and he was like 40 years old and drove it to work everyday.
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Originally Posted by LS1Aggie09
Howdy! I got my car about a month ago and have taken it easy as shes my baby but it had really crappy tires so i burned them off about a week ago before getting my michelin pilot sports. When i was burning them off it seemed like there was only a dark line of rubber on the passenger side of the car and not two black marks...what gives?!? car has about 78k miles on it and the guy before me never raced, as its bone stock and he was like 40 years old and drove it to work everyday.
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it is the G80 so how does it work on GM vehicles? I believe its the same rear thats in our 04 2500HD if i am not mistaken which has 4.10's. Does the drivers side go until slippage and the passenger side kick in or the other way around? Can someone explain in detail how the G80 works? Thanks! And what problems could there be?
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Even if you have limited slip you should remember that it is called *limited* slip. It's not a spool. If you have the LS rear, then you or the guy before you wore it out. Most likely your car wasn't built with the LS.
Drastically different tire pressure (left->right), wrong wheel size e.g. compact spare, etc. all can cause the LS differential to wear out very quickly.
Drastically different tire pressure (left->right), wrong wheel size e.g. compact spare, etc. all can cause the LS differential to wear out very quickly.
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...just short for 'limited slip.'
Also. The F-body rear is not the same as the 2500HD rear....sadly.
I know some F-bodies had the torque sensing differential as an option. That differential has a counterweight mechanism that recognizes the speed differential between the axles and decides to "lock up" when necessary.
I could have sworn that many of the LS1 cars had a clutch pack type diff. Otherwise it's a cone style. Both of which just make an "attempt" to keep the axles spinning the same speed.
Also. The F-body rear is not the same as the 2500HD rear....sadly.
I know some F-bodies had the torque sensing differential as an option. That differential has a counterweight mechanism that recognizes the speed differential between the axles and decides to "lock up" when necessary.
I could have sworn that many of the LS1 cars had a clutch pack type diff. Otherwise it's a cone style. Both of which just make an "attempt" to keep the axles spinning the same speed.
Last edited by technical; 06-09-2006 at 12:17 PM.
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haha...well its under warranty still...GM extended so might just let the dealer replace it. What is the difference between the G80 on the 2500HD and the G80 on the Z28?
#11
A torsen posi at odd times will act like an open diff, its not a locking posi but its far better than an open differential. It has some oddities though, if one tire has 0 traction, then neither tire will spin. This is as simple as having one tire in the air. If a torsen diff is shot, then the worm gears have broken and you will have a lot of metal material in the diff which will lead to ring/pinion failure. Open it up, have a look and see that it's ok. When both tires are in the air, if you spin 1 tire one way the other will spin the opposite way like an open. The only way to check if it is ok is to open it up and examine it.
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On a lift/jack you *can* spin one wheel hard enough by hand (maybe 90*-180*) to feel the engagement of a torsen. It will grab quickly then release since you can only "whip" the wheel quickly but not keep the diff locked. They are notorious for breaking.
The diff on the 2500HD is similar, but much larger since there is a bigger rear end installed on a HD truck. The upside of a torsen is that you don't have positive locking on the axles which reduces fishtailing in bad conditions, but doesn't provide the best traction during a hard launch.
The diff on the 2500HD is similar, but much larger since there is a bigger rear end installed on a HD truck. The upside of a torsen is that you don't have positive locking on the axles which reduces fishtailing in bad conditions, but doesn't provide the best traction during a hard launch.
#15
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wait wait WAIT a second. clarify for me.
how do you know if you have a torsen?
and how do you know if you have a clutch style posi?
i have a 2001 formula automatic with 2.73's. i assumed i have a torsen worm gear differential. what is the door code for each?
how do you know if you have a torsen?
and how do you know if you have a clutch style posi?
i have a 2001 formula automatic with 2.73's. i assumed i have a torsen worm gear differential. what is the door code for each?
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This is normal for the stock, low bias Torsen. Getting
both to spin requires finesse and yet is pointless,
because the stuck tire is putting down up to 2X the
spinning tire tractive force. If you spin the second
one you are going to accelerate less.
If you don't have a little "add whale blubber" tag on
the diff (and nobody's been in it) then it's a Torsen.
both to spin requires finesse and yet is pointless,
because the stuck tire is putting down up to 2X the
spinning tire tractive force. If you spin the second
one you are going to accelerate less.
If you don't have a little "add whale blubber" tag on
the diff (and nobody's been in it) then it's a Torsen.
#17
Back from the dead thread, to ask a newbie question in a newbie thread.
I had my F-body flatbeded home 25mi last night instead of using the idiot spare on the rearaxle (with a 18x10.5" z06 wheel on the other side), b/c i thought it would do more damage than it was worth.
Was I right in my precaution? I am really trying to prolong the life of my 10bolt, because I'm already hearing noise from the right rear axle.
I had my F-body flatbeded home 25mi last night instead of using the idiot spare on the rearaxle (with a 18x10.5" z06 wheel on the other side), b/c i thought it would do more damage than it was worth.
Was I right in my precaution? I am really trying to prolong the life of my 10bolt, because I'm already hearing noise from the right rear axle.
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i put 80 miles on my dinky little spare tire and it hasnt hurt since. i havent put over 4k miles since but its showing no sign of breaking. i have a 94 lt1 car but the rear is the same i think?
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
wait wait WAIT a second. clarify for me.
how do you know if you have a torsen?
and how do you know if you have a clutch style posi?
i have a 2001 formula automatic with 2.73's. i assumed i have a torsen worm gear differential. what is the door code for each?
how do you know if you have a torsen?
and how do you know if you have a clutch style posi?
i have a 2001 formula automatic with 2.73's. i assumed i have a torsen worm gear differential. what is the door code for each?