Your thoughts on my LS1 build.........
#1
Your thoughts on my LS1 build.........
Well...I've already begun sourcing parts and I've decided to just stick with one manufacturer to eliminate confusion. I've settled on Texas Speed And Performance. I called them today and they were extremely helpful. Here is their recommendation for my application....
- Texas Speed Torquer V.3 Camshaft; 231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA.
- LS6 Intake with LS1 injectors and 78mm throttle body stock MAF.
- Texas Speed Stage I heads with double spring kit.
- Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods.
- GM LS2 Timing Chain.
About $2200 in parts. Not bad. He said this would be good for around 425rwhp and about 480 at the crank and would also have a nice lopey sound to it but would not be hard to idle. I also bought a brand new LS6 intake kit on eBay for $350 w/free shipping.
Can any of you LSx gurus look that over and see if you concur with the set up? Are the power figures right? I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
- Texas Speed Torquer V.3 Camshaft; 231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA.
- LS6 Intake with LS1 injectors and 78mm throttle body stock MAF.
- Texas Speed Stage I heads with double spring kit.
- Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods.
- GM LS2 Timing Chain.
About $2200 in parts. Not bad. He said this would be good for around 425rwhp and about 480 at the crank and would also have a nice lopey sound to it but would not be hard to idle. I also bought a brand new LS6 intake kit on eBay for $350 w/free shipping.
Can any of you LSx gurus look that over and see if you concur with the set up? Are the power figures right? I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
#2
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Good list! I can only assume you already have headers/exhaust and a torque converter if your car is an auto. If you have a manual you may want to start looking into 4:10's and a beefier rearend. Don't forget you'll need a good tune, whether it be a dynotune or buying software and doing it yourself.
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That will be a good combo if you have an M6 and a good tune. If you have an A4 it is going to suck if you do not get an aftermarket torqueconverter in the 3500 or so range and of course a good tune. Also like mentioned above you will need some headers and a good exhaust to make use of all that air the H/C/I will be putting in the motor.
The tune is the key here. You tune is the foundation by which your engine operates on. You can have all the best parts but if you are running a on stock/shitty tune it will not be a very good combo.
The tune is the key here. You tune is the foundation by which your engine operates on. You can have all the best parts but if you are running a on stock/shitty tune it will not be a very good combo.
#5
Joel....what's an M6, A4?
I think I got it nailed down. Here is a revised game plan.
- Texas Speed Torquer II Camshaft; 232/234 .595/.598 with 113 lobe
seperation.
- LS6 Intake with LS1 injectors and 78mm throttle body stock MAF
(screen removed).
- PRC LS6 CNC Ported Heads; 2.00/1.55 with double springs
upgrade.
- Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods.
- GM LS2 Timing Chain.
- Ported LS6 oil pump.
How does this look? Am I getting driveability, lopey sound, not difficult to idle? Are my pistons safe? What kind of power to the rear wheels and crank can I hope to have with this setup?
Thanks guys, I think I'm almost there.
I think I got it nailed down. Here is a revised game plan.
- Texas Speed Torquer II Camshaft; 232/234 .595/.598 with 113 lobe
seperation.
- LS6 Intake with LS1 injectors and 78mm throttle body stock MAF
(screen removed).
- PRC LS6 CNC Ported Heads; 2.00/1.55 with double springs
upgrade.
- Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods.
- GM LS2 Timing Chain.
- Ported LS6 oil pump.
How does this look? Am I getting driveability, lopey sound, not difficult to idle? Are my pistons safe? What kind of power to the rear wheels and crank can I hope to have with this setup?
Thanks guys, I think I'm almost there.
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Sounds like a nice list. Should work well, just start looking for a new rear with gears soon though as the stock won't last long. Plus if your an auto get a verter. Descreening the MAF isn't necessary either. If you want to go ahead but be careful as they are touchy. Your pistons should be safe too.