stock ls1 bored to 383?!
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: va beach, va
Posts: 473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
stock ls1 bored to 383?!
I've been doing a little reading on this...I'm a newb so I dont quite understand everything about it...so ima ask a few ?s..
How much money would you questimate to take my stock ls1 and have it bored out to 383? (and whats this stroker buisness?)
would i still be able to use boltons on it while keeping stock tranny/suspention? (plan on upgrading suspention anyway...)
what about nitrious?
anything you can explain would be helpful! thanks!
BTW: Mods if this is the wrong thread feel free to move...im new so i figured new ls1 would be the appropriate thread..
How much money would you questimate to take my stock ls1 and have it bored out to 383? (and whats this stroker buisness?)
would i still be able to use boltons on it while keeping stock tranny/suspention? (plan on upgrading suspention anyway...)
what about nitrious?
anything you can explain would be helpful! thanks!
BTW: Mods if this is the wrong thread feel free to move...im new so i figured new ls1 would be the appropriate thread..
#2
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would do some serious searching in the LS1/LS6 internal engines area. For starters the max you can bore a stock ls1/ls6 aluminum block is .010 over. You would need a stroker crank to achieve 383 cubic inches.
#3
Launching!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cabot Arkansas
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah you need to get a stroker crank. I'm not sure what you gotta do to LS1's to make sure when you put that crank in to make sure you got your proper clearances. But about the trans/rearend. If you have a t-56 (manual) they are good for like 800 horse so I've heard. If you have an automatic It was already on its way out before you even started modding it. Those definitly need to be beefed up when you start adding power. And our rears are more resilient than people say, Its my personal opinion that as long as you dont put slicks on them and dead hook on a prepped track they'll hang in there. Ive had 425 rwhp on my stock rear for about 25k with nitto DRs and shes holdin strong!
#4
Tech Resident
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 1,403
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pharm0r
How much money would you questimate to take my stock ls1 and have it bored out to 383? (and whats this stroker buisness?)
would i still be able to use boltons on it while keeping stock tranny/suspention? (plan on upgrading suspention anyway...)
what about nitrious?
Read this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-owners-newbie-tech/361959-so-you-wanna-fast.html
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Central jersey, nj
Posts: 1,688
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Pharm0r
any recommendations on a company with stroker kits?
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com..._engine_build/
why do you need a stroker motor? for the money, you could buy a forged 347 short block(around 3k) and through some forced induction at it. Or some nitrous...or even a decently aggressive h/c with similar results. And if you wanted to you could get a forged 402 or 408 for around 4k i believe.
Trending Topics
#8
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Philly Subs
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first thing you need to do is determine if you are going to have a power adder or not and what kind of a budget you are on. If you are going with a stroker motor then you need to go with a smaller piston, which increases your chances of frying a piston with any kind of forced induction or nitrous. You will also have clearance issues with the stroker crank. big question is what kind of power are you looking to make?? stock internals are good for 600+ RWHP, so i would suggest working off that. add on a LS6 intake, nice set of heads, cam, throttle body, MAF, a 100 shot of nitrous, full exhaust, a good tune and your safely running 500+ RWHP, for about the same price it would cost to stoke your motor to 383 and with Signficantly less labor. Best of all you can do those things in pieces so your not dropping thousands all at once.
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BrandonDrecksage
why do you need a stroker motor? for the money, you could buy a forged 347 short block(around 3k) and through some forced induction at it. Or some nitrous...or even a decently aggressive h/c with similar results. And if you wanted to you could get a forged 402 or 408 for around 4k i believe.
I had a 436rwhp/420rwtq H/C package before my current 383, and while it doesn't necessarly count as a "need", the torque improvement alone was worth the money. Not to mention that increased cubes are never a bad thing... An iron 408 would be a great choice if you can live with the extra 90lbs out front.
#13
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Philly Subs
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
theres absolutly no reason to stroke the motor if your only looking for 500-600 horsepower. I realize there is no replacement for displacement, but theres also no need to spend the money if you dont have too. If you do elect to go with the 383 then shop around for a short block. The block can be bored up to 4.125 from 3.8976 but is a costly project due to the block needing to be re-sleeved, its not as simple of a machining project as a gen. I or II. stoke can go up to 4.250 but with any stroker crank you'll have to notch the bores for clearance. You have a motor made to withstand that kind of power, so why replace it??? Heads, cams and a few other bolt ons. Check out Harris Speed Works under the sponser listings for a great nitrous setup. if you dont understand everything about nitrous and how it works they'll take the time and explain it to you.
Last edited by MiketurboLS1; 11-29-2006 at 10:27 AM.