3k for a newbie to spend
12-14-2006, 01:05 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
3k for a newbie to spend Just bought my 98 TA last night. Its a 6 speed with only a catback to its mod list.
I was just wondering if anybody had some suggestions as to what I should spend the money on.
I was thinking id go lid, Short throw, ls6 intake/80mm tb, headers/ypipe, cam/springs, tune. I havent been able to find prices for alot of this stuff.... but i think i can get it done for 3k if I do my own work (cept the tune of course).
if anybody sees any major problem with my plan let me know. I just came off a mustang, so this is a whole new world to me, im just basically regurgitating what ive heard around the forums.
also, any tips on where to find some good deals on these parts are more than welcome. i did most of my shopping before at summit...
I was just wondering if anybody had some suggestions as to what I should spend the money on.
I was thinking id go lid, Short throw, ls6 intake/80mm tb, headers/ypipe, cam/springs, tune. I havent been able to find prices for alot of this stuff.... but i think i can get it done for 3k if I do my own work (cept the tune of course).
if anybody sees any major problem with my plan let me know. I just came off a mustang, so this is a whole new world to me, im just basically regurgitating what ive heard around the forums.
also, any tips on where to find some good deals on these parts are more than welcome. i did most of my shopping before at summit...
12-14-2006, 01:12 PM
#2
Welcome & congrats on the car! Let's see pics!!! Check out the sponsors------>
They can hook you up with great prices on what you're looking for. If it were my car, I'd do a heads/cam package from one of the sponsors along with an ls6 intake and ported stock tb, longtubes/true duals, shifter, clutch & tune and start saving up for a 9" rearend when your stocker goes boom.
They can hook you up with great prices on what you're looking for. If it were my car, I'd do a heads/cam package from one of the sponsors along with an ls6 intake and ported stock tb, longtubes/true duals, shifter, clutch & tune and start saving up for a 9" rearend when your stocker goes boom.
12-14-2006, 01:20 PM
#3
TECH Resident
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 932
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love these 'spend my money' threads!
I'm goin to have to agree with jmm98ls1. heads/cam/ls6 intake/lt/td/clutch & tune and you have one badass ride for not much $$$.
+1 on pics. And welcome to the site!
I'm goin to have to agree with jmm98ls1. heads/cam/ls6 intake/lt/td/clutch & tune and you have one badass ride for not much $$$.
+1 on pics. And welcome to the site!
12-14-2006, 01:42 PM
#7
12 Second Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: las cruces, new mexico
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you can get full bolt-ons for a around 1000. a cam for about 600 for parts and 400-600 for an install. 200-300 for tune. and have some money left for tires. just save up for heads and a rear
Trending Topics
12-14-2006, 01:49 PM
#8
Banned
iTrader: (45)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NC
Posts: 2,556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first thing you need to do for performance is a GOOD exhuast system (~$1500 - 2000).
Start with Long tube headers (~$400-800), and then select a True Dual exhaust system (~$1000). Bassani makes a nice kit that your exhaust guy puts together on the car.
A good exhaust system will help your car breathe...which adds significant hp to these engines.
Once you get the exhaust side done focus on the intake side: lid ($100), a ls6 intake manifold ($330 used), ported tb ($150 plus core), PACE 85 mm MAF ($150--some may argue with me on this one) and you're good with intake mods. Wait for a pulley till you do cam, since the stock pulley has to come off anyway for that.
Now you're at ~$2000.
Only now should you start thinking about cam. Research as to what cam you are going to run, based on your goals and the characteristics of different cams. There is a LOT of information in the stickies at the top of each (internal, external) forum, so read up. Also do some searches. Select a cam and all components to go with it (ported oil pump, springs, retainers, pushrods, install kit...). This will put you (including tune) right around $3000.
It's always wise to Invest in some gears like 4.10s or 3.73s but at least a Pro 5.0 shifter. That about does it.
Start with Long tube headers (~$400-800), and then select a True Dual exhaust system (~$1000). Bassani makes a nice kit that your exhaust guy puts together on the car.
A good exhaust system will help your car breathe...which adds significant hp to these engines.
Once you get the exhaust side done focus on the intake side: lid ($100), a ls6 intake manifold ($330 used), ported tb ($150 plus core), PACE 85 mm MAF ($150--some may argue with me on this one) and you're good with intake mods. Wait for a pulley till you do cam, since the stock pulley has to come off anyway for that.
Now you're at ~$2000.
Only now should you start thinking about cam. Research as to what cam you are going to run, based on your goals and the characteristics of different cams. There is a LOT of information in the stickies at the top of each (internal, external) forum, so read up. Also do some searches. Select a cam and all components to go with it (ported oil pump, springs, retainers, pushrods, install kit...). This will put you (including tune) right around $3000.
It's always wise to Invest in some gears like 4.10s or 3.73s but at least a Pro 5.0 shifter. That about does it.
12-14-2006, 02:00 PM
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, I have started out with the SLP flow pack, with the cold air, smooth bellows, and lid. It did dawn on me after I clicked OK that maybe the lid would have sufficed..... but oh well, a little cold air never hurt anybody. I think im going to get a pro 5.0 shifter, then once those are in move onto the ls6 intake.
I cant do heads.... just too much money. I thought about a rear end... but thats too much too
ill just have to go easy on her. I dont plan on putting her on slicks and going down the track anyways, so Im hoping this will hold out. U guys all have me scared about this 7.5" tho.... seriously, what was GM thinking?
I cant do heads.... just too much money. I thought about a rear end... but thats too much too
ill just have to go easy on her. I dont plan on putting her on slicks and going down the track anyways, so Im hoping this will hold out. U guys all have me scared about this 7.5" tho.... seriously, what was GM thinking? 
12-14-2006, 03:29 PM
#13
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Philly Subs
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'de Check out Texas Speed on the sponser list. Go with the TSP 224R XE cam kit, coated Pace setter LT and TSP Rumbler true dual. F.A.S.T 90mm intake combo. thats about 2500 in parts which leaves plenty of room for install kits and decent tune.
12-14-2006, 03:44 PM
#14
Originally Posted by MiketurboLS1
I'de Check out Texas Speed on the sponser list. Go with the TSP 224R XE cam kit, coated Pace setter LT and TSP Rumbler true dual. F.A.S.T 90mm intake combo. thats about 2500 in parts which leaves plenty of room for install kits and decent tune.
12-14-2006, 04:02 PM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ok
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Congrats on the purchase! No reason to but assuming this is your first high powered mod car, I would suggest folding your money in half and putting it back in your pocket until you get used to your car in stock form. 
Then *I* would upgrade in this fashion:
-Get some knowledge right here on this board to get an idea of what you want to do with the car (drag racing, street only, road racing, scca solo II, etc)
--Each has it's own requirements and they tend to counter each other (drag cars don't turn particularly well and road racers often don't hook a clutch drop very well, etc etc)
-Get some traction under her because she doesn't go anywhere spinning (tho it's loads of fun and 6 speed cars do it exceedingly well)
--Subframe connectors are nearly a must and a strut tower brace does wonders too
--Boxed or tubular lower control arms will help cure that nasty wheel hop
--Tires popular in the wild seem to shift so searching for the latest and greatest will help when it comes time to buy
-Get some strength under it because she won't go anywhere broken (read this as, replace the 10bolt while it's still good and sell it to someone who didn't...)
--Consider 4:10 gears with a 6 speed car as a good balance between drivability and raceability.
--Number two will likely cause number three fairly quickly so you will feel fortunate that you didn't build horsepower first and have the money to replace that 10 bolt!
-Get a clutch that will hold your *realistic* power goals. You don't need to buy a clutch that will hold 1200lb/ft of torque when at the end of the day, you might end up a 400-500hp car (very respectable by all means btw)
--If your current clutch is grabbing fine, this can be delayed for a bit and also depends on your preferred style of racing.
-Based on the research you will have done by now you will know if you want to take a power-adder route or build the car for N/A operation. Each of the four possibilities (turbocharger, supercharger, nitrous, or N/A) will have it's own pro's and con's and each could turn into a book in its own right
A good full bolt on car can be very quick relative to what's out there and if that's where you want to be, live in the for sale section where people are selling their bolt ons to go to something more radical or demod.
That being said, if you are looking for something NOW to get you over the hump, pick up a little nitrous kit and spray it. If you get bored of filling bottles, nitrous kits resell pretty quickly and you should get a fair chunk of your money back.
Good luck with it and see you out there!
Then *I* would upgrade in this fashion:
-Get some knowledge right here on this board to get an idea of what you want to do with the car (drag racing, street only, road racing, scca solo II, etc)
--Each has it's own requirements and they tend to counter each other (drag cars don't turn particularly well and road racers often don't hook a clutch drop very well, etc etc)
-Get some traction under her because she doesn't go anywhere spinning (tho it's loads of fun and 6 speed cars do it exceedingly well)
--Subframe connectors are nearly a must and a strut tower brace does wonders too
--Boxed or tubular lower control arms will help cure that nasty wheel hop
--Tires popular in the wild seem to shift so searching for the latest and greatest will help when it comes time to buy
-Get some strength under it because she won't go anywhere broken (read this as, replace the 10bolt while it's still good and sell it to someone who didn't...)
--Consider 4:10 gears with a 6 speed car as a good balance between drivability and raceability.
--Number two will likely cause number three fairly quickly so you will feel fortunate that you didn't build horsepower first and have the money to replace that 10 bolt!
-Get a clutch that will hold your *realistic* power goals. You don't need to buy a clutch that will hold 1200lb/ft of torque when at the end of the day, you might end up a 400-500hp car (very respectable by all means btw)
--If your current clutch is grabbing fine, this can be delayed for a bit and also depends on your preferred style of racing.
-Based on the research you will have done by now you will know if you want to take a power-adder route or build the car for N/A operation. Each of the four possibilities (turbocharger, supercharger, nitrous, or N/A) will have it's own pro's and con's and each could turn into a book in its own right
A good full bolt on car can be very quick relative to what's out there and if that's where you want to be, live in the for sale section where people are selling their bolt ons to go to something more radical or demod.
That being said, if you are looking for something NOW to get you over the hump, pick up a little nitrous kit and spray it. If you get bored of filling bottles, nitrous kits resell pretty quickly and you should get a fair chunk of your money back.
Good luck with it and see you out there!
12-14-2006, 04:07 PM
#16
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Philly Subs
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
guess it depends on how much he'll be driving it and what he wants out of it, those are some agressive cams, throw the MS3 in there while your at it. TSP is having some holiday specials, i noted free shipping on all exhaust systems. you can also PM them for some special cam kit pricing. another option while your at it, ditch the FAST intake and find a used LS6, which could free up about 600 bucks and get a nitrous wet kit from harris speed works. even jetted at 50-75 hp its still a good bang for the buck.
12-14-2006, 04:13 PM
#17
Do not go with that lil 224 cam though they are very nice cams but by the looks you wana go fast and that cam will only get you so far. Then thats when its time to go MS3 or MS4 or Trex all great cams and really wake these cars up, in your case if you're getting heads then these cams will really be sick.. TSP is running a christmas special right now definitely check them out they always have the lowest prices and best customer service. So go with Heads, MS4 cam, LT's, true duals, Drag tires, short throw shifter, and maybe even a nice blue bottle to take up that space in the back seat
12-14-2006, 04:18 PM
#18
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Philly Subs
Posts: 294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
in HSW's case a BLACK bottle, cool stuff. incredible kit for the price
Im liking the H/C Package for 1575
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/619363-christmas-time-specials-texas-speed.html
and if you order a few things im sure they will give you an ever better deal.
Im liking the H/C Package for 1575
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-sales-specials/619363-christmas-time-specials-texas-speed.html
and if you order a few things im sure they will give you an ever better deal.
12-14-2006, 05:10 PM
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Speed
Congrats on the purchase! No reason to but assuming this is your first high powered mod car, I would suggest folding your money in half and putting it back in your pocket until you get used to your car in stock form.
Then *I* would upgrade in this fashion:
-Get some knowledge right here on this board to get an idea of what you want to do with the car (drag racing, street only, road racing, scca solo II, etc)
--Each has it's own requirements and they tend to counter each other (drag cars don't turn particularly well and road racers often don't hook a clutch drop very well, etc etc)
-Get some traction under her because she doesn't go anywhere spinning (tho it's loads of fun and 6 speed cars do it exceedingly well)
--Subframe connectors are nearly a must and a strut tower brace does wonders too
--Boxed or tubular lower control arms will help cure that nasty wheel hop
--Tires popular in the wild seem to shift so searching for the latest and greatest will help when it comes time to buy
-Get some strength under it because she won't go anywhere broken (read this as, replace the 10bolt while it's still good and sell it to someone who didn't...)
--Consider 4:10 gears with a 6 speed car as a good balance between drivability and raceability.
--Number two will likely cause number three fairly quickly so you will feel fortunate that you didn't build horsepower first and have the money to replace that 10 bolt!
-Get a clutch that will hold your *realistic* power goals. You don't need to buy a clutch that will hold 1200lb/ft of torque when at the end of the day, you might end up a 400-500hp car (very respectable by all means btw)
--If your current clutch is grabbing fine, this can be delayed for a bit and also depends on your preferred style of racing.
-Based on the research you will have done by now you will know if you want to take a power-adder route or build the car for N/A operation. Each of the four possibilities (turbocharger, supercharger, nitrous, or N/A) will have it's own pro's and con's and each could turn into a book in its own right
A good full bolt on car can be very quick relative to what's out there and if that's where you want to be, live in the for sale section where people are selling their bolt ons to go to something more radical or demod.
That being said, if you are looking for something NOW to get you over the hump, pick up a little nitrous kit and spray it. If you get bored of filling bottles, nitrous kits resell pretty quickly and you should get a fair chunk of your money back.
Good luck with it and see you out there!
Then *I* would upgrade in this fashion:
-Get some knowledge right here on this board to get an idea of what you want to do with the car (drag racing, street only, road racing, scca solo II, etc)
--Each has it's own requirements and they tend to counter each other (drag cars don't turn particularly well and road racers often don't hook a clutch drop very well, etc etc)
-Get some traction under her because she doesn't go anywhere spinning (tho it's loads of fun and 6 speed cars do it exceedingly well)
--Subframe connectors are nearly a must and a strut tower brace does wonders too
--Boxed or tubular lower control arms will help cure that nasty wheel hop
--Tires popular in the wild seem to shift so searching for the latest and greatest will help when it comes time to buy
-Get some strength under it because she won't go anywhere broken (read this as, replace the 10bolt while it's still good and sell it to someone who didn't...)
--Consider 4:10 gears with a 6 speed car as a good balance between drivability and raceability.
--Number two will likely cause number three fairly quickly so you will feel fortunate that you didn't build horsepower first and have the money to replace that 10 bolt!
-Get a clutch that will hold your *realistic* power goals. You don't need to buy a clutch that will hold 1200lb/ft of torque when at the end of the day, you might end up a 400-500hp car (very respectable by all means btw)
--If your current clutch is grabbing fine, this can be delayed for a bit and also depends on your preferred style of racing.
-Based on the research you will have done by now you will know if you want to take a power-adder route or build the car for N/A operation. Each of the four possibilities (turbocharger, supercharger, nitrous, or N/A) will have it's own pro's and con's and each could turn into a book in its own right
A good full bolt on car can be very quick relative to what's out there and if that's where you want to be, live in the for sale section where people are selling their bolt ons to go to something more radical or demod.
That being said, if you are looking for something NOW to get you over the hump, pick up a little nitrous kit and spray it. If you get bored of filling bottles, nitrous kits resell pretty quickly and you should get a fair chunk of your money back.
Good luck with it and see you out there!
I just came off of a bolt-on nitrous fed 4.6 mustang. about 420 bhp (i know... not that impressive on this board.... oh well). the car is a little slow for me right now though, i just feel like I want a little more when i lay into it. I like the cam idea though. im thinkin ill probably do the 12 bolt and nitrous simultaneously. I know the 10 bolts break easy, but it should be able to hold 400 hp on street tires as long as I dont beat on it too bad (and maybe iwth some rear suspension work to lessen wheel hop)
12-14-2006, 05:19 PM
#20
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ive heard alot of good things about the MS3 cam (i think the ms4 is too radical.... not for what i want.... but for what i will realistically get to 
) how is this cam on a street car? i probably wont get to do heads for quite some time, so i will probably end up another bolt-on cam only car, just wanna get a good bang for the buck, but not mod myself into a corner.
) how is this cam on a street car? i probably wont get to do heads for quite some time, so i will probably end up another bolt-on cam only car, just wanna get a good bang for the buck, but not mod myself into a corner.