TA1972

iTrader: (17)

Hi, Which one of the two cams should i go with? 1# cam is 218/228, 558/558, 116 lsa. The 2# cam is 220/224, 551/558,lsa 117. Which one out of the two cams give the best hp & tq?

Ell Ess Won

117?

for a mild cam with very good numbers, Ide look into something like the comp cam 224/224

SatanzWS6

iTrader: (3)

+1. thats what i may be gettin here shortly.

02NHRAtransAm

iTrader: (17)

+1 for the 224/224 thats whats goin in mine

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

for both those cams, have a little different ranges, but i think the overall perfomance would be the same, considering the difference in lift and very small difference in lobe seperation....that first cams gonna have a little bit more of a thump to it with the bigger exhaust duration

lsx24

iTrader: (45)

Neither...there are better cams out there.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

If you want something mild i would suggest the following:

224/224 on a 114(Thunder Racing or Texas Speed and Performance)
228/228 on a 114(Thunder racing or Texas Speed and Performance)
228/232 on a 113(MTI G1 cam)

I would contact Patrick G, Orangeapeel, or Predator Z they know alot about custom grinds and whatever your looking to make/want your car to do

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

You should be able to DD either cam with decent gains. What are some of your other bolt-ons? Are you an A4 or M6? There is a handful of things to take into consideration when selecting a cam.

1. Read up on cams in general and what the specs mean as far as power band/torque/horsepower output.

2. I would check out atleast 5 cams that you would consider. (Then bring it down to 1 in the end obviously.)

3. Definitely Definitely Do not skimp on valvetrain components. That will make or break you on a cam swap. If you can't afford to do it correctly right away, hang tight until you can.

4. Also, you will see different feelings on how a cam should be selected. In this case take a majority of the good points into consideration.

I assume that you might be trying to stay smog friendly or use some of your stock valvetrain with this cam swap based on the choices you have listed. I might be way off base, but just trying to help ya out.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Not necessarily.

220/224, 551/558 117 Will have a stock-like idle for sure. With the overlap at -12°. It would make a great DD/Sleeper cam.
218/228, 558/558 116 Same characteristics as the 117 cam for the most part. Idle will have a little more aggression, but not much at all. Still has -9° of overlap. Might have a hint of aftermarket in it based on the idle, but again, not much at all.

Both of these cams will probably have a powerband off idle for the most part and pull through the range. I would honestly look into a cam closer to the .600 range and a duration from about 224-230 on intake side. You will receive more power from a high lift lower duration cam. If you are chosing a cam to keep your stock springs....don't do it. I would suggest Comp 918's at a minimum. You are going to want to run a hardened/chromoly pushrod with any cam other than stock as well. the stock pushrods are very weak considering what they have to do.

This should give you a good push start in the right direction.

SHINER

iTrader: (18)

For when you get that set of ported heads, you will achieve more power due to more airflow. It also helps to have a cam with a lift near .600 when having ported heads cause thats most likely where they acheive maxium flow.

Also I believe if you get anything below .585 .587 you can NOT get a XE-R Lobe profile.

XE-R is a very good lobe profile IMO.