WiseAssJester

Pardon me if this sounds stupid/retahded/already asked and explained, but I haven't seen it addressed anywheres.


I'm pondering getting rid of the entire stock air box. I'd like to go from the MAF sensor, to straight pipe with a cone filter mounted somewhere close to the bottom of the car(under the facia, maybe in front of the radiator so as to be the first thing to get hit by fresh air). The location, of course, is prone to change when I can get a better look at the car during the daylight.

The reason I ask is because I have all sorts of pipe and bends laying around, quick access to an unused paper cone filter. And I'd rather take a quick, virutally free, upgrade that may prove somewhat potent, vs buying a lid from someone else and all that jazz.


Also, I'll be porting the throttlebody mine self. Anyone got any tips/tricks/should know info for me?

After that I intent to buy some pacesetter long tube headers and build a full exhaust(new piping, cats, mufflers of course). Pipe size suggestions or reccommendations would be nice.


Will these three things be at all noticable when everything is said and done?

Also, will the car throw a code if I get rid of the stock cats and make smogging a bit tricky? Its an 01 WS6.

Thanks for your time!
And what kind of

99silverWS6

iTrader: (3)

Dude, Just go with a lid. If you have your filter too low it will be prone to sucking up water in the rain. I have the pacesetters they are great for the money and when you remove the cats you will NOT pass emmissions unless you get your car retuned or if you get O2 sims. I would suggest getting a tune. You should make around 340rwhp. I made 346/360 with a lid/catback/ORY/LS6 inatke/ and LT's

Good luck

WiseAssJester

Is rain the only reason?

And by getting a tune, do you mean via a program such as LS1edit? And does that work the same as HPtuners, in that you can simply tell the ECU it no longer needs to throw a code for said problem?

WS6 Rampage

iTrader: (3)

Honestly,..you get a plus for wanting to fabricate your own induction parts. I did it myself and I'm pleased with the difference.

BUT....

Your gonna want to consider this.

ONE: lol,...k,......remove the air-box and look down into it and see how much crap gets shoved up in there. lol,....yea,..you don't wanna do that. good way to get something shoved up in there. Just put the image of a single grain of gravel get'n through the cone filter and go'n into your intake,..then entering the cylander head. Now imagine chiping a valve. For what,..10,.maybe 13 hp. Yea,...NOT WORTH THE RISK!

TWO: ok,....good thing about the air-box,....it contains incoming air fairly well. I didn't say flow,..lol,....I said "contains". Engine soot for the most part,.if you have a good seal,.....stays out!!

THREE!!!: If you have the fabrication bug,....consider this,......YOU HAVE A NON FUNCTIONAL WS.6 HOOD!! USE IT!!!!! I personally took a saw-zaw to mine and cut out the 2 rain deflectors and built a funnel out of Aluminum that feeds a **** load of air into the Air box. I mean a frig'n fat mans **** load of air!!! Good thing about using the hood,....you avoid all the crap from the ground that travels up in front of the radiator.
Lets put it this way,......even the guys who buy the SLP C.A.I. scoop witch follows the same pricipal that your idea has (Using the incoming air from the radiator dam.) get ALLOT of road crap shoved up in there.
.........If you wanna take a look,.go to my cardomain link and take a look for yourself. Actually my signature below has a pic of the hood and you can see what i'm refering to aswell with that. Using the WS.6 hood not only has its own seperate advantages over the Radiator dam's incoming air but it also gives your WS.6's hood a purpose.

FOUR: Oh and,..........buy the lid bro. It actually helps! Can't go wrong with what thousands of us LS guys have decided to buy as our FIRST mod. That and along with LT headers,...you'll never hear anyone ever complain about their air-lid.