Spyderman25

1) FI (procharger or APS TT) with boltons, or 2) H/C/I set-up, with boltons... trying to figure out which way would be more reliable in terms of being a DD... let me know your opinions, thanks.

This is for a Ls1 camaro btw

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

FI...becuase you can control the boost and turn it down when you dont want it

Spyderman25

good point, well taken. Anyone have any experience driving a H/C/I set-up? whats it like?

Hennytime

iTrader: (33)

with that low of a power level its like stock until you hit it

FieroZ34

iTrader: (1)

The H/C/I will be the most reliable.

ChocoTaco369

FI hands down. high RPM's are murder on the motor and drivetrain. with FI, you can keep the shift points stock and still make great power. plus, FI is wayyyy more efficient than H/C packages, and if you don't put your foot into it, it's like there is no boost at all.

FI is definitely the more reliable way to go. want proof? just look at the 4L60E. a cammed LS1 with 400rwhp will kill a 4L60E a lot faster than a 400rwhp FI LS1. why? because the cammed LS1 has higher shift points and it destroys the tranny. high RPM's destroy everything, from your bearings in your motor to the trans to the driveshaft to the rear end. we won't even get into all the extra heat they cause...

RacerScott

iTrader: (6)

What about a H/C/I setup that is optimized to run at 6000-6300 shift points.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Procharger, no question about it. And the cost is the same as a H/C set up in the end.

stokedporcupine

i've never had FI, but my 450 rwhp h/c car is more then fine for a DD. the car idols at about 900 rpm's. shifting took about a week to get used too, but once i was used to the clutch and shifting the car drove like my 130 hp plymoth does. the car also makes great power from 3000-6000 rmps, if you want to beat it around on the street 4000-6000 is a blast. as far as gas millage, i still get 17 mpg if i drive like a normal person (11-12 if i beat her, 20-25 on the highway).

but i've never had a FI car. i'm just trying to say, the H/C car won't be some shoddy, unstreatable car. its not like people who want 450-500 hp ONLY go h/c cause they couldn't afford the FI.

FieroZ34

iTrader: (1)

Your reasoning is sound, however I don't think a H/C/I LS1 will need to rev past stock in order to make 450-500whp. As far as the efficiency goes, there will not be a noticable difference, unless you go into boost under normal DD, whereas the N/A setup will be MORE efficient, as you are not losing power to turn the compressor.

Benjamin Russick

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if I'd agree with that... There are plenty of cheap H/C packages out there and the prices have dropped a ton since early on. Blowers have only gone up in price... Most folks could probably save the install money on the blower, though...

ChocoTaco369

450-500rwhp on a H/C/I LS1 with STOCK SHIFT POINTS? how is that gonna happen? has it even ever been done? you NEED to raise shift points for the big cams. that is where you make all the power. the bigger cam you go, the higher it makes power in most cases, and the weaker it is on the low end. big cams like the T-Rex and MS4 need to rev high in order to put down the power. the cost of that is less low end than stock. it'll feel a lot weaker down low, and you're going to need tight gearing on an M6 or a high stall on an A4 to make it driveable.

an FI setup will keep it feeling stock down low, retain stock gas mileage down low and unleash all hell over 3k rpms.

again, FI ???. that's why it's the more expensive setup - because it's technically superior. N/A is cool and all, and it's really intimidating to whoop someone's butt on all motor, but let's not kid ourselves where more potential lies.

will82

If you want stock-like charactersitics and DD reliability, but also want a beast that will annihilate 99% of cars out there when you really put your foot into, go with a centrifical blower setup. Head/cam will NOT get you to 450rwhp without sacrificing streetability. Yes, amny are fine DDing cams with lift 230 and above, but they are rough and they lack oomph down low. And to really get the benefit you do have to rev the motor well past 6k.

My setup is exactly what you're looking for. Stock cam, blower, low boost, 500 to the wheels, drives JUST like stock until I stomp on it.

My only concern would be what kit you go with. While ProCharger makes the best head units, their kits suck and their service is even worse. I would buy a custom kit. I belive Bob at EPP sells a custom FMIC kit or at least it replaces parts of the procharger kit. You definately want to buy from someone who can help you along the way b/c procharger won't. Also, go with a D1SC and NOT a P1SC. You can run a larger pulley with the D1SC for the same boost as a P1SC, hence less potential belt-slip. Go with an 8-rib setup as well, and use an ATI harmonic balancer (crank pulley). Do everything right initially.

I would recommend the following, in order of importance. You can stop whenever cash runs out,

-Blower Kit
-Transmission cooler
-Torco!!!
-8-rib setup
-Meth or alky injection
-Patriot LQ9 Heads

Run a pulley for 7-8 psi. Tune on 93 octane WITHOUT Torco or meth. Then add one or both for maximum engine protection. Add lower compression heads like the patriot lq9, and you'll really have piece of mind.

Torco is relatively cheap. A full can raises your octane to around 98. Half a can to around 95.5. NEVER use 100+ octane race gas if it is available in your neigborhood. People who do this on their street cars are retarded. The LS1 is not designed for this octane level. Running too high octane has NO benefits, and can actually slightly reduce power. A few octane points above 93 is enough for added protection if you want it. I use Torco b/c it's cheap and easy. I don't have a meth kit, but may add one in the future.

At any rate, if you get at least the blower kit and tranny cooler and run 7psi, you'll have a 500rwhp street beast on your hands that drives like stock at cruise and will annihilate your buddies head/cam ls1 cars.

BTW, are you a4 or m6???

thaigleshmk

Wow. Nice... hehehe going FI is a pretty good idea.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

Ive had both and I say H/C = way less headaches than FI. H/C is so simple and effective without all the BS that FI has. If your wanting 450-500 go with a good H/C/I setup. Ive had 3 H/C setups and never had a problem revving the motor to 7000.

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

[QUOTE=will82] Head/cam will NOT get you to 450rwhp without sacrificing streetability.


this is the biggest line of BS ive read so far.

I run the G5X4, 240/244 111 lsa with "0" zero problems. The car drives perfect and Im making 480-490rwhp. I could easliy drive this car everyday. People have to remember, its all in the tune. If you got a shitty tune, then your car wont be fun and streetable.

will82

[QUOTE=30th t/a]BS my @$$, and I specifically said there would be those who felt that xxx cam is completely drivable. The g5x4 is not a mild cam. Yes a good tune makes it as smooth as possible. Yes, YOU think it is 100% DD material. Yes, YOUR motor spins to 7k and YOU haven't had any problems. I guess every ls1 out there can be spun to 7k and still have DD reliability and no problems with the stock bottom end. This CRAP happens EVERY time and I'm sick of it. Someone who has an aggressive setup gets offended when its suggested that the setup may be agressive. I'm glad you like the setup and it works for you.

will82

AND the op still hasn't answered what type of tranny. He may have an a4 with stock converter. I bet that g5x4 would be real comfortable with that setup.

will82

Definately. FI will cost more than H/C.

NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

I have a built h/c/i that I dd. I have no problem with it But if you are looking for something stockish I would recommed a turbo kit (front or rear mount) mainly for the ability to choose your power level and keep alot of the stock drivability. Just be prepared for a little more maintainence. Good luck