normal oil pressure and temperature readings?
06-19-2008, 10:30 AM
#1
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normal oil pressure and temperature readings? hey guys, you might have read the thread about the 1998 camaro z28 i'm looking at this saturday here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-lsx-automobile-discussion/938900-1998-camaro-z28-5450-dealer.html
i figured this question belongs in the newbie tech. when test driving the car, what should the oil pressure and temperature read normally? it is a high mileage car with 123k miles, so i just want to make sure it's running well.
i figured this question belongs in the newbie tech. when test driving the car, what should the oil pressure and temperature read normally? it is a high mileage car with 123k miles, so i just want to make sure it's running well.
06-19-2008, 11:23 AM
#2
Temperature should fall just below or at 210. Anything beyond that and offer them $1000 for the car, j/k. Oil pressure should be in the 40 psi region at idle and will be higher most likely during warm up, a little under is o.k. but wouldn't buy anything that is under say 30-35 psi. It does have 123k on it but I would really try and talk them down. I just got my 2001 WS6 last September for $14,900 with 47k on it and the thing is "flawless" and was garage kept. Try and talk them down no matter what.
06-19-2008, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for the prompt response. I understand that 1998 gauges are supposedly most accurate and are not "dummy" gauges, right? How much should oil pressure be at wot? So the highest the temperature should be is 210? Would the fact that the car has 123k affect the oil pressure and/or temp significantly? Yeah, I will try talking them down no matter what, they are the stealership after all, but honestly if everything checks out, and if the car seems to be in good condition, I wouldn't mind paying the asking price ($5400), as long as they give me blue book (like they said they would) for my trade-in because I bought my trade-in vehicle for a STEAL, so there will be very little or no loss on it from what I paid for it originally. But if something doesn't seem to be right with the car, and/or the dealer tries screwing me over, I'm not afraid at all to walk out; it'll be a good experience nonetheless and I like roadtrips anyway.
06-19-2008, 03:02 PM
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Temperature should fall just below or at 210. Anything beyond that and offer them $1000 for the car, j/k. Oil pressure should be in the 40 psi region at idle and will be higher most likely during warm up, a little under is o.k. but wouldn't buy anything that is under say 30-35 psi. It does have 123k on it but I would really try and talk them down. I just got my 2001 WS6 last September for $14,900 with 47k on it and the thing is "flawless" and was garage kept. Try and talk them down no matter what.
I wonder if you'd be saying the same thing if you were selling your car.
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06-19-2008, 03:54 PM
#8
The oil pressure should rise with higher rpm's of course and should be at 60psi if not higher I would say at close to redline. The temperature gauge is the only gauge that is different than the other years and shows true temp. Still sticking to the 210 degree thing I told you before unless it's humid as **** and your sitting at a light for a while and temp goes up. As long as it goes back down your good to go. Just trying to help you out bud, but from a stealership is always a guess I think. But you seem pretty gitty about the car so I'm doing the most to help you out. Make sure you get a Carfax for it also and make sure it's as clean as possible including "flood damage". Almost bought a 96 Formula WS6 a while back and found out that it was in a flood damaged
Which one, lol.
Which one, lol.
06-19-2008, 05:58 PM
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The oil pressure should rise with higher rpm's of course and should be at 60psi if not higher I would say at close to redline. The temperature gauge is the only gauge that is different than the other years and shows true temp. Still sticking to the 210 degree thing I told you before unless it's humid as **** and your sitting at a light for a while and temp goes up. As long as it goes back down your good to go. Just trying to help you out bud, but from a stealership is always a guess I think. But you seem pretty gitty about the car so I'm doing the most to help you out. Make sure you get a Carfax for it also and make sure it's as clean as possible including "flood damage". Almost bought a 96 Formula WS6 a while back and found out that it was in a flood damaged
Which one, lol.
Which one, lol.
06-19-2008, 06:22 PM
#12
That is definitely an upgrade and that Camaro will seem like a rocket ship in comparison no doubt, lol.
The one thing that I have always done is told the dealer that I would like a outside mechanic to take a look at it to see what they say about it. Sounds like that would be a little tough to do given that it's quite a ways from you. But give it a test drive at least
The one thing that I have always done is told the dealer that I would like a outside mechanic to take a look at it to see what they say about it. Sounds like that would be a little tough to do given that it's quite a ways from you. But give it a test drive at least
06-20-2008, 02:51 PM
#14
06-20-2008, 03:07 PM
#15
I read through real quick and here are my thoughts.
Oil pressure depends on if it's an A4 or M6. My M6 idles at 850 stock, my A4 idles at 550 stock. The A4 has lower pressure until I raise it up to where the M6 idles at then they are equal.
PLUS if the dealer notices low oil pressure I'd bet they'd put heavier oil in it to run it up a few psi.
The stock thermostat is 186 degrees, it should run right under 210 because of the way the fans are programmed to turn on.
Carfax is useless, I've run several vehicles that I know were wrecked and the reports come back clean. Hell I had a one month sign up so I was running everything I could find. I ran the VIN of a '97 SS thats been in a junkyard for three years, looks like it was hit by a train and the carfax for that is perfect.
Oil pressure depends on if it's an A4 or M6. My M6 idles at 850 stock, my A4 idles at 550 stock. The A4 has lower pressure until I raise it up to where the M6 idles at then they are equal.
PLUS if the dealer notices low oil pressure I'd bet they'd put heavier oil in it to run it up a few psi.
The stock thermostat is 186 degrees, it should run right under 210 because of the way the fans are programmed to turn on.
Carfax is useless, I've run several vehicles that I know were wrecked and the reports come back clean. Hell I had a one month sign up so I was running everything I could find. I ran the VIN of a '97 SS thats been in a junkyard for three years, looks like it was hit by a train and the carfax for that is perfect.
06-20-2008, 04:34 PM
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I read through real quick and here are my thoughts.
Oil pressure depends on if it's an A4 or M6. My M6 idles at 850 stock, my A4 idles at 550 stock. The A4 has lower pressure until I raise it up to where the M6 idles at then they are equal.
PLUS if the dealer notices low oil pressure I'd bet they'd put heavier oil in it to run it up a few psi.
The stock thermostat is 186 degrees, it should run right under 210 because of the way the fans are programmed to turn on.
Carfax is useless, I've run several vehicles that I know were wrecked and the reports come back clean. Hell I had a one month sign up so I was running everything I could find. I ran the VIN of a '97 SS thats been in a junkyard for three years, looks like it was hit by a train and the carfax for that is perfect.
Oil pressure depends on if it's an A4 or M6. My M6 idles at 850 stock, my A4 idles at 550 stock. The A4 has lower pressure until I raise it up to where the M6 idles at then they are equal.
PLUS if the dealer notices low oil pressure I'd bet they'd put heavier oil in it to run it up a few psi.
The stock thermostat is 186 degrees, it should run right under 210 because of the way the fans are programmed to turn on.
Carfax is useless, I've run several vehicles that I know were wrecked and the reports come back clean. Hell I had a one month sign up so I was running everything I could find. I ran the VIN of a '97 SS thats been in a junkyard for three years, looks like it was hit by a train and the carfax for that is perfect.
06-20-2008, 05:54 PM
#19
Everyones posting up their idle oil pressure, but it's all relavent to rpm and oil weight. Even oil filter type can effect it.
So unless you get specifics the info isn't 100% accurate.
35 to 55psi is a basic covers it all answer IMO.
06-21-2008, 01:04 AM
#20
Bottom line is what you feel. Used cars are a crap shoot. Feeling lucky? Sure, there are the normal things to look for, oil leaks, missing, Trans slip, brake pull etc...
Look at it this way 4 weeks ago I bought a 00 Formula a4 t-top with 180k on the clock that was hit on the left front. A few guys locally saw it before I did and passed it up and made REAL low ball offers, like 1500-2000. I saw it slept on it for a week and made an offer south of 3000 and bought it. I've already fixed it with $400 and started making plans on mods. Not too many guys can drive away with an Ls1 for less than 3k. I've got 1k into it and love it, the rest of the car is sweet. For now I like it stock and can drive it daily. My Lt1 is my fun beast with all kinds of mods but hated it daily.
In short you have to like it and the budget needs to follow along. Just look at what you can and never pay full price.
Look at it this way 4 weeks ago I bought a 00 Formula a4 t-top with 180k on the clock that was hit on the left front. A few guys locally saw it before I did and passed it up and made REAL low ball offers, like 1500-2000. I saw it slept on it for a week and made an offer south of 3000 and bought it. I've already fixed it with $400 and started making plans on mods. Not too many guys can drive away with an Ls1 for less than 3k. I've got 1k into it and love it, the rest of the car is sweet. For now I like it stock and can drive it daily. My Lt1 is my fun beast with all kinds of mods but hated it daily.
In short you have to like it and the budget needs to follow along. Just look at what you can and never pay full price.