Radiator Question
12-30-2008, 08:09 AM
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Radiator Question No idea where to post this so since Im going with a nitrous motor Ill post here. The plan is a 383 or 402 solid roller motor with CR of 12:1 on pump gas or something much higher on race gas. The car will see 300-400 on the spray if not higher depends on how much I can get it all dialed in. I will street drive it every now and then but not alot. The question is will the stock radiatior keep up for street driving? I have a meziere race pump btw. If not what radiatior do you guys suggest?
12-31-2008, 08:13 PM
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If you're on pump gas then yes the radiator should be just fine.
I don't know about the pump and or tstat. If you had a stock pump with tstat removed then I'd say yes, but I really don't know with what you will run.
Your fans will probably run a lot. With that plus the pump you may want to consider a larger alternator with an external adjustable regulator so you can crank the voltage up a little to 15.0 - 15.5v. It will keep the fan & pump speed up. Sometimes a smaller alternator pulley helps for idle.
Putting around on the street with race gas will create excessive heat because of the low cylinder pressure of being throttled. The fuel will burn slow and more heat will be rejected to the ports & exhaust.
Pump gas should be fine for part throttle.
If you do run without a tstat, be sure to completely block the bypass passage so all coolant has to go back to the radiator, or you will have a heating problem.
I don't know about the pump and or tstat. If you had a stock pump with tstat removed then I'd say yes, but I really don't know with what you will run.
Your fans will probably run a lot. With that plus the pump you may want to consider a larger alternator with an external adjustable regulator so you can crank the voltage up a little to 15.0 - 15.5v. It will keep the fan & pump speed up. Sometimes a smaller alternator pulley helps for idle.
Putting around on the street with race gas will create excessive heat because of the low cylinder pressure of being throttled. The fuel will burn slow and more heat will be rejected to the ports & exhaust.
Pump gas should be fine for part throttle.
If you do run without a tstat, be sure to completely block the bypass passage so all coolant has to go back to the radiator, or you will have a heating problem.
12-31-2008, 09:46 PM
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If you're on pump gas then yes the radiator should be just fine.
I don't know about the pump and or tstat. If you had a stock pump with tstat removed then I'd say yes, but I really don't know with what you will run.
Your fans will probably run a lot. With that plus the pump you may want to consider a larger alternator with an external adjustable regulator so you can crank the voltage up a little to 15.0 - 15.5v. It will keep the fan & pump speed up. Sometimes a smaller alternator pulley helps for idle.
Putting around on the street with race gas will create excessive heat because of the low cylinder pressure of being throttled. The fuel will burn slow and more heat will be rejected to the ports & exhaust.
Pump gas should be fine for part throttle.
If you do run without a tstat, be sure to completely block the bypass passage so all coolant has to go back to the radiator, or you will have a heating problem.
I don't know about the pump and or tstat. If you had a stock pump with tstat removed then I'd say yes, but I really don't know with what you will run.
Your fans will probably run a lot. With that plus the pump you may want to consider a larger alternator with an external adjustable regulator so you can crank the voltage up a little to 15.0 - 15.5v. It will keep the fan & pump speed up. Sometimes a smaller alternator pulley helps for idle.
Putting around on the street with race gas will create excessive heat because of the low cylinder pressure of being throttled. The fuel will burn slow and more heat will be rejected to the ports & exhaust.
Pump gas should be fine for part throttle.
If you do run without a tstat, be sure to completely block the bypass passage so all coolant has to go back to the radiator, or you will have a heating problem.
Happy New Year
01-01-2009, 06:14 AM
#4
Stock radiator will be fine, I'd put an electric race pump on with no tstat, run the pump all the time and just tune the car so the fans are on at 180 and you will be fine.
The race gas on the street gets expensive quick too... a motor like you want to put together with a race auto tranny setup is gonna get about 8 mph on average and that's not driving like a nut, 10 mpg if you're lucky.
Be ready for that. 9 mpg average, 12 bucks a gallon if not more, yeah you're burning like 150 bucks in fuel for a saturday night.
The race gas on the street gets expensive quick too... a motor like you want to put together with a race auto tranny setup is gonna get about 8 mph on average and that's not driving like a nut, 10 mpg if you're lucky.
Be ready for that. 9 mpg average, 12 bucks a gallon if not more, yeah you're burning like 150 bucks in fuel for a saturday night.
01-01-2009, 08:56 AM
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Yea I have an electric water pump with no T-stat and I have the electric fans so I can put them both on whenever I want. The fans also can be set my the computer so that should be good. Yea Im expecting the expensive Saturday nights. JL-ws6 Is it worth it to go from 12 to 1 to 13.5 to 1 What is an EST. HP difference I dont even have a clue.
01-02-2009, 07:30 AM
#6
I'm not 100% sure, but here is a comparison I can give you.
Eastside built my motor and another custoemr's motor at about the same tie. Both 402 ci motors. The other custoemr went with an iron block, same crank, more of a standard rod/piston setupand a set of hand finished AFR 225 heads, and a cam that's almost identical to what I have in my car, I think it's about 2 degrees short on the intake and exhasut that's it. His motor is 12 to 1. It made 505 to the tires with a tune in it for a 150 shot.
My motor was built with an ls2 block, a different tpe of rod/piston, actually a good it heavier then what his are being that this was built for alot more nitrous use, a set of ET 240 heads, and thru an unlocked n/a 5000 rpm converter and a TH400 it made 477 rwhp with a tune for a 150 shot.
For a referance, we both have a fast 90 intake and 90mm tb, both cars are 12 bolt cars, both cars had 1 3/4 headers, gutted/catless Y pipes and he had a GMMG ith a cutout, I had a LM1 on mine at the time, so the setup's are very similar.
On another car that was a 383 car that made 500 to the tires thru a M6, we swapped in a TH400 and a 4500 rpm converter that was more effecient then the n/a one I was running, and he lost 70 hp at the tires with the tranny swap. Granted the car gained 3 mph and .4 at teh track though with the swap, but the 70 hp that it lost to the tires is the general referance we use... so that would have put my car at somewhere around 545 to 550 at the tires with the same driveline that the other 402 car was built with.
Are my heads better, I dunno a hand finished AFR 225 is a good head, et 240's are good as well, so I can't really say which is a better head at this point, both were flowed and they weren't that far apart, mine carried the flow a little higher and got to 300 a touch earlier then the AFR's, and the exhaust flwo on min ewas about 20 cfm better across the board, and I have a couple degrees more cam duration, but I don't think that and the heads are the whole 50 hp more that my motor made, nevermind my roatating assy is alot heavier, which is probably a 15 to 20 hp loss.
Only thing with the compression being higher, is when you start trying to hit it harder you need to be a littel mroe careful with the tuneup and take it a little slower/go as conservative as you can with the timing as it will be critical.
Eastside built my motor and another custoemr's motor at about the same tie. Both 402 ci motors. The other custoemr went with an iron block, same crank, more of a standard rod/piston setupand a set of hand finished AFR 225 heads, and a cam that's almost identical to what I have in my car, I think it's about 2 degrees short on the intake and exhasut that's it. His motor is 12 to 1. It made 505 to the tires with a tune in it for a 150 shot.
My motor was built with an ls2 block, a different tpe of rod/piston, actually a good it heavier then what his are being that this was built for alot more nitrous use, a set of ET 240 heads, and thru an unlocked n/a 5000 rpm converter and a TH400 it made 477 rwhp with a tune for a 150 shot.
For a referance, we both have a fast 90 intake and 90mm tb, both cars are 12 bolt cars, both cars had 1 3/4 headers, gutted/catless Y pipes and he had a GMMG ith a cutout, I had a LM1 on mine at the time, so the setup's are very similar.
On another car that was a 383 car that made 500 to the tires thru a M6, we swapped in a TH400 and a 4500 rpm converter that was more effecient then the n/a one I was running, and he lost 70 hp at the tires with the tranny swap. Granted the car gained 3 mph and .4 at teh track though with the swap, but the 70 hp that it lost to the tires is the general referance we use... so that would have put my car at somewhere around 545 to 550 at the tires with the same driveline that the other 402 car was built with.
Are my heads better, I dunno a hand finished AFR 225 is a good head, et 240's are good as well, so I can't really say which is a better head at this point, both were flowed and they weren't that far apart, mine carried the flow a little higher and got to 300 a touch earlier then the AFR's, and the exhaust flwo on min ewas about 20 cfm better across the board, and I have a couple degrees more cam duration, but I don't think that and the heads are the whole 50 hp more that my motor made, nevermind my roatating assy is alot heavier, which is probably a 15 to 20 hp loss.
Only thing with the compression being higher, is when you start trying to hit it harder you need to be a littel mroe careful with the tuneup and take it a little slower/go as conservative as you can with the timing as it will be critical.
01-02-2009, 08:40 AM
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I understand, I just bought a set of ET heads as well. Do you mind telling me your flow #'s? PM or Post I just want a comparison. What times do you run? Thanks, just trying to get an idea of what Im going to be around, I know every Car is different and I know EVERYTHING is a factor just want a ball park. I have everythign top dollar for suspension and transmission/converter. The car is getting alot lighter since it was last weighed 3336 RW. Thanks again.
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01-02-2009, 09:23 AM
#8
I don't have the flow sheet in ront of me, but I remember them being around 305 @ 300 lift, and they peaked around 335 @ about 650, @ 700 they were down to 300. That being said they were a very good choice for a hydraulic roller with about 620 lift which is what I'm running.
Car's been a best of 9.53 @ 142.6x with a shitty 1.42 60 foot, jetting is a single 65 nitrous jet, @ 3350 lbs.
I won't be runing the car again for a while, I'm in the process of picking up stuff in an effort to get it to 3000 lbs even, I think I can get it there if I lose about 50 myself, once there I feel 9.30 should be possible @ the current power level.
I am however going to put a single plane intake on the car and either a diffuser plate or DP setup in an effort to try to get as much out of this motor as I can before starting the next one.
Car's been a best of 9.53 @ 142.6x with a shitty 1.42 60 foot, jetting is a single 65 nitrous jet, @ 3350 lbs.
I won't be runing the car again for a while, I'm in the process of picking up stuff in an effort to get it to 3000 lbs even, I think I can get it there if I lose about 50 myself, once there I feel 9.30 should be possible @ the current power level.
I am however going to put a single plane intake on the car and either a diffuser plate or DP setup in an effort to try to get as much out of this motor as I can before starting the next one.