Timing tricker wiring diagram
03-05-2010, 08:46 PM
#1
Timing tricker wiring diagram I know theres a bunch of threads on this but I couldnt find a good wiring diagram. I have a 94 lt1 car and wanted to see what wire you tap on the iat sensor and hows the best way to set this up? Should I run it off my nitrous relay or add a extra and also would like to run it into the the nitrous toggle switch to work when its armed. Thanks in advance.
03-06-2010, 10:38 AM
#2
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The IAT rewire is easy and works well. You should use a dual position relays to alter the sensor path. Basically the relay sits on the +5v side of the IAT sensor, and then when the relay is in the "deactivated" position, the +5v path runs to the stock IAT sensor. When the relay is activated, the path changes and the +5v side is not routed to a resistor (from the chart below) and the other side of the resistor is ran to ground. Here is the resistance data for the IAT sensor. Then you just alter the desired row in the IAT-Timing table. Just be sure to wire it such that the sensor itself is totally out of the circuit when you want to pull timing, otherwise your resistance will vary with temp both ways.
Now, I dont know how much timing will be pulled with your specific PCM. I know that with my 2002 LS1 can, any IAT over 50c will cause 3 degrees to be pulled. (I altered this table to pull 6 on my car.)
Click here to SEARCH for Resistors
This thread goes into detail as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...t-how-pic.html
Radio Shack 1/2 Watt Resistors
9420 ohms = 32 *F - 0 *C
7280 ohms = 41 *F - 5 *C
5670 ohms = 50 *F - 10 *C
4450 ohms = 59 *F - 15 *C
3520 ohms = 68 *F - 20 *C
2796 ohms = 77 *F - 25 *C
2238 ohms = 86 *F - 30 *C
1802 ohms = 95 *F - 35 *C
1459 ohms = 104 *F - 40 *C
1188 ohms = 113 *F - 45 *C
973 ohms = 122 *F - 50 *C
667 ohms = 140 *F - 60 *C
467 ohms = 158 *F - 70 *C
332 ohms = 176 *F - 80 *C
241 ohms = 194 *F - 90 *C
177 ohms = 212 *F - 100 *C
132 ohms = 230 *F - 110 *C
100 ohms = 248 *F - 120 *C
77 ohms = 266 *F - 130 *C
60 ohms = 284 *F - 140 *C
47 ohms = 302 *F - 150 *C
Now, I dont know how much timing will be pulled with your specific PCM. I know that with my 2002 LS1 can, any IAT over 50c will cause 3 degrees to be pulled. (I altered this table to pull 6 on my car.)
Click here to SEARCH for Resistors
This thread goes into detail as well: https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...t-how-pic.html
Radio Shack 1/2 Watt Resistors
9420 ohms = 32 *F - 0 *C
7280 ohms = 41 *F - 5 *C
5670 ohms = 50 *F - 10 *C
4450 ohms = 59 *F - 15 *C
3520 ohms = 68 *F - 20 *C
2796 ohms = 77 *F - 25 *C
2238 ohms = 86 *F - 30 *C
1802 ohms = 95 *F - 35 *C
1459 ohms = 104 *F - 40 *C
1188 ohms = 113 *F - 45 *C
973 ohms = 122 *F - 50 *C
667 ohms = 140 *F - 60 *C
467 ohms = 158 *F - 70 *C
332 ohms = 176 *F - 80 *C
241 ohms = 194 *F - 90 *C
177 ohms = 212 *F - 100 *C
132 ohms = 230 *F - 110 *C
100 ohms = 248 *F - 120 *C
77 ohms = 266 *F - 130 *C
60 ohms = 284 *F - 140 *C
47 ohms = 302 *F - 150 *C
Last edited by Goldfinger911; 03-06-2010 at 10:52 AM.
03-07-2010, 07:09 PM
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Yup. Sure can. I control my timing retard like this with my NX Maximizer. It triggers the relay at a certain spray level. Works great. Doesnt matter where you hit the wire. Just somewhere easy to get to. Be sure and solder the wires. You dont want the retard to fail when spraying.
03-08-2010, 07:16 PM
#6
Okay another question I just want to get this right lol, But I know when I normally wire up a relay I have a main power source. With the diagrams I am seeing it looks like its using the power from my toggle switch not a constant power source correct? I guess what I am asking is its not using the toggle switch to arm it and then have another main power source. It just uses the toggle for the power source since you are turning it on and off right?
03-08-2010, 11:54 PM
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Yes... the power source or ground is applied only when you want to energize the relay coil and retard timing. Thats why you use a dual position relay... so when it is off, the normal IAT circuit is intact. My setup, I have 12v to the relay whenever the key is on, and it is the ground that the "switch" enabled by my nitrous controller.
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03-12-2010, 07:44 PM
#14
Ok picked up the resistor today whats the best way to wire and solder them in? Got any pics of the way you did it? Also I got the 680 ohms because thats the closet ones they had to 750s. Do I need to add any others with this or I should be able to just run the 680 correct?
03-13-2010, 12:00 AM
#15
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Check the chart and get it as close as you can. Also, if you can, log data with the engine off but ignition on. You should see the IAT jump when you put the resistor in the path instead of the IAT sensor.
03-14-2010, 01:48 PM
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I remove a section of wire, and solder the resistor inline. Then I cover the entire length (solder joints and the resistor itself) in heat shrink tuning to help make it strong. When youre spraying nitrous, you dont want your timing retard to fail. 
