New lq9 build nitrous advice please
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New lq9 build nitrous advice please
Im building a stock bottom lq9 with TREX cam and stock 317 heads. Yank 3500 and 3.73. Im debating on wet or dry. Ill be getting a racetronix pump and wiring but im unsure of replacing the injectors. Im leaning toward a 100-125 dry and ill never want no more than a 150 wet. If i go wet 150 ill want a stand alone and plate for piece of mind. Also my friend sprays 100 dry with an a4 and he does not use a window switch just wot and activation and he never has any problems he will just hit the switch out the hole depending on traction. Is this ok I know its hard to do that thru a m6 but not in a auto. I pretty much want to do the same but replace my pump leave injectors and im going to let my tuner know that i want some spray so he dont bump my timing. Also add tr6 plugs and im curious of the best place for a nozzle placement his is in the air box but i have heard you want to get it as close to the maf as possible so it freezes the maf pretty much and chunks the fuel. Thanks for yalls advice!
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- You can run wet system without a stand alone if you already did upgrade your fuel pump. Pulling fuel from Fuel rail had been done many times with no problems
- If you are doing wet system, no need to upgrade the fuel injectors if they can cover your N/A power.
- Window switch, WOT switch and FPSS is great insurance and IMO should be available in any nitrous car! ..
- NGK BR7EF is the right spark plugs for n2o, TR6 is projected plug and it is not a nitrous plug
- Wet Nozzle SHOULDN'T placed before the MAF ! .. the maf is not designed to read N2O and Fuel mixture
- If you are doing wet system, no need to upgrade the fuel injectors if they can cover your N/A power.
- Window switch, WOT switch and FPSS is great insurance and IMO should be available in any nitrous car! ..
- NGK BR7EF is the right spark plugs for n2o, TR6 is projected plug and it is not a nitrous plug
- Wet Nozzle SHOULDN'T placed before the MAF ! .. the maf is not designed to read N2O and Fuel mixture
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- You can run wet system without a stand alone if you already did upgrade your fuel pump. Pulling fuel from Fuel rail had been done many times with no problems
- If you are doing wet system, no need to upgrade the fuel injectors if they can cover your N/A power.
- Window switch, WOT switch and FPSS is great insurance and IMO should be available in any nitrous car! ..
- NGK BR7EF is the right spark plugs for n2o, TR6 is projected plug and it is not a nitrous plug
- Wet Nozzle SHOULDN'T placed before the MAF ! .. the maf is not designed to read N2O and Fuel mixture
- If you are doing wet system, no need to upgrade the fuel injectors if they can cover your N/A power.
- Window switch, WOT switch and FPSS is great insurance and IMO should be available in any nitrous car! ..
- NGK BR7EF is the right spark plugs for n2o, TR6 is projected plug and it is not a nitrous plug
- Wet Nozzle SHOULDN'T placed before the MAF ! .. the maf is not designed to read N2O and Fuel mixture
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But you know, I would like to know about dry nozzle placement cause IMO when MAF freezes, it will **** up the maf reading ended up giving wrong command for injectors to add fuel which can cause lean situation !! Correct me please
Last edited by Cold Zero; 01-15-2011 at 06:05 AM.
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Loool ,, it is only some advices if you ever go wet cause You said that you are debating on wet or dry ! I cannot give any info on dry. I didn't use one cause wet meets my needs ( easy to tune, can go N/A at WOT and once I arm the system Lingenfilter Unit do the work on timing )
But you know, I would like to know about dry nozzle placement cause IMO when MAF freezes, it will **** up the maf reading ended up giving wrong command for injectors to add fuel which can cause lean situation !! Correct me please
But you know, I would like to know about dry nozzle placement cause IMO when MAF freezes, it will **** up the maf reading ended up giving wrong command for injectors to add fuel which can cause lean situation !! Correct me please
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- You can run wet system without a stand alone if you already did upgrade your fuel pump. Pulling fuel from Fuel rail had been done many times with no problems
- If you are doing wet system, no need to upgrade the fuel injectors if they can cover your N/A power.
- Window switch, WOT switch and FPSS is great insurance and IMO should be available in any nitrous car! ..
- NGK BR7EF is the right spark plugs for n2o, TR6 is projected plug and it is not a nitrous plug
- Wet Nozzle SHOULDN'T placed before the MAF ! .. the maf is not designed to read N2O and Fuel mixture
- If you are doing wet system, no need to upgrade the fuel injectors if they can cover your N/A power.
- Window switch, WOT switch and FPSS is great insurance and IMO should be available in any nitrous car! ..
- NGK BR7EF is the right spark plugs for n2o, TR6 is projected plug and it is not a nitrous plug
- Wet Nozzle SHOULDN'T placed before the MAF ! .. the maf is not designed to read N2O and Fuel mixture
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It is not my recommendation in Plate vs Nozzle but the fact says the plate system will give better distribution for the mixture of N2O/Fuel
Actually many people doing it without WOT, Window Switch or FPSS .. but for me I don't want to lose my engine or using fire extinguisher cause one day I was trying to save some bucks !..
at the end, I'm still beginner with N2O .. there are many experts here like ATV, camscam02, ryarbrough, ... also try to call the nitrous venders here ( Nitrous Outlet, HSW, NX, Dynotune ... )
If you really want to choose what meets you needs, read the stickies and spend some time reading others nitrous system, try to search for dry vs wet, plate vs nozzle and 10s will not be a problem man
Actually many people doing it without WOT, Window Switch or FPSS .. but for me I don't want to lose my engine or using fire extinguisher cause one day I was trying to save some bucks !..
at the end, I'm still beginner with N2O .. there are many experts here like ATV, camscam02, ryarbrough, ... also try to call the nitrous venders here ( Nitrous Outlet, HSW, NX, Dynotune ... )
If you really want to choose what meets you needs, read the stickies and spend some time reading others nitrous system, try to search for dry vs wet, plate vs nozzle and 10s will not be a problem man
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How do u have it tuned, do you have a controller that pulls timing or do you run with pulled timing all the time how is your kit set up do u use a window switch. Im trying to avoid buying alot of electronics/ controllers i dont need lol
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Last lq9 I ran was stock bottom end, not even rod bolts, tv2 cam, ls6 intake, pump and injectors. It got a 200 shot at it all summer without breaking a sweat. 20 degrees of timing all the time (it made 425rwhp on 20 degrees still, and 628hp on the jug). I was pushing the envelope but your idea of a 100-125 shot is not anything to worry about
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It's fine if you have some nice injectors and pump. If anything fails, you are **** up ****'s creek. I'd prefer a wet system over a dry system, I have neither at the moment, but have researched a lot. If I can guarantee fuel in the engine at all times, I would do wet, and not worry about nitrous backfire or running too lean.
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It's fine if you have some nice injectors and pump. If anything fails, you are **** up ****'s creek. I'd prefer a wet system over a dry system, I have neither at the moment, but have researched a lot. If I can guarantee fuel in the engine at all times, I would do wet, and not worry about nitrous backfire or running too lean.
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I've sprayed the ***** off a lot of different ls motors on stock bottom ends, its all about tune and the user.
Last lq9 I ran was stock bottom end, not even rod bolts, tv2 cam, ls6 intake, pump and injectors. It got a 200 shot at it all summer without breaking a sweat. 20 degrees of timing all the time (it made 425rwhp on 20 degrees still, and 628hp on the jug). I was pushing the envelope but your idea of a 100-125 shot is not anything to worry about
Last lq9 I ran was stock bottom end, not even rod bolts, tv2 cam, ls6 intake, pump and injectors. It got a 200 shot at it all summer without breaking a sweat. 20 degrees of timing all the time (it made 425rwhp on 20 degrees still, and 628hp on the jug). I was pushing the envelope but your idea of a 100-125 shot is not anything to worry about