ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Spray what you got 1st... you need a starting point.
then adjust from there.

Graham, we sent it back to get tightened. lookin for 4400-4200.... race car stuff is a little different we have an extra 2000rpm that most guys dont have.
My old "street" stuff was 34-3600 stall.

Cam is right stall and efficency dont have to go hand in hand but for most converters it does somewhat.

Graham@NitrousOutlet

Agreed. I was more trying to clear up that a while the 3xxx is typically what you need it isn't so easy to get the right converter and that a perfect one can really make a combo scream down the track.

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

my main point when it comes to stall ratings is this: a 3200 stall converter behind a 300hp car does not work behind a 600hp car and many people dont get this. It will be very "loose" and blow thru... but its only 3200 so it should work correct?? big big difference. I could go on and on but thats the jist.

As for the OP, start with what you have and go from there, dont go shooting in the dark changing things that you dont even know work or dont work right now. Also dont go changing 10 things at once, you will never ever find out what is helping hurting etc that way

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

Agreed but what i probably should've said was in the interest of getting it to go as quickly as possible n/a, i was interested in changing the lid,tb,intake combo and MAYBE even go with something different than the TFS as cast heads but i haven't even started to look into what ported factory casting might make a big improvement over them on my 402.

Aside from that, depending on which i do first, i will either do spray first or top end first and then the other. With what i'll get for my setup it wont be much if anything out of pocket which would be really nice! The only thing i'm for sure keeping if i go the n2o route is the shortblock and cam. I'm open to a head/intake suggestion or can post in the appropriate section to get those answers.