i was wondering what your car does on motor and spray and what mods you got. i might be considering going the 383 LQ4 route myself.

 

Only had one run on motor since it was completely setup for nitrous. 11.6 at 119 with SS rims up front and ET streets on salad shooters out back and 3650 race weight and stock 3.42 gears. Thats with a serious nitrous cam .535/.585 232/246 114lsa. On a 150 shot dry it went 10.7 at 128-129 with a 1.62 sixty foot. On a 200 shot dry it went 10.7 at 131. Again the car was not set up for drag. SS rims up front, stock shocks, only suspension mods where LCAs and panhard, six speed, 3.42 gears. Lots of room for improvement.

I am changing the package right now more towards track performance. I have a cam that is a variation on the MTI R1 cam. Should pick up alot NA but still be good with nitrous. I am looking for low 11s on motor and low 10s on nitrous.
New mods will be:
BMR suspension (they are local)
12 bolt with 3.73s
Lightweight race rims and ET drags/skinnies
Drop weight to below 3500 lbs
and a few others
Once I see how the quest for low 10s goes...I will make some changes to attempt a crack into the 9s

Motor specs done by ARE:
LQ4 iron block bored to 4.06
stock LS1 crank offset ground to 3.70
Lunati H beam rods
Ross nitrous pistons
Cometic head gaskets
ARP head studs
232/236 .574/.578 114
ARE stage II LS1 heads with 2.055 and 1.60 valves

Give Wade a call at ARE and he will give you a price. The LQ4 block makes it fairly cost effective. No core required..you can sell your stuff to recover some of the cost. Although they will need your crank and a few other small items.

As far as the extra 65-75 lbs up front with the iron block....I relocated the batt to the back and took out the emmissions stuff and front sway bar. Id say it breaks about even. Car drives great. Any other questions let me know....Al

 

thanks for the reply. i am going to get a 6.0L long block core from my uncle for like $500 with the aluminum heads. i am looking at my options. 10.7 is awsome with stock gears and a 150 dry shot. i am debating on eather a 383 with good heads or just buy a lunati and go 427 with stock heads and get ported heads later. eather way i will keep you posted.

 

Hey Al,
Now that you have given us a good run down of what the new motor and suspension looks like. How about a complete run down of what the nitrous system will look like <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Thanks
Glenn

 

Actually I will be running a single stage dry to put HP right at 575-600 rwhp. That is already installed on the car. Once I have the suspension and car dialed in to handle that, I will make the changes I want to the nitrous system.
Still not sure how its going to end up. Possibilities are:

1) two stage wet/dry. Maybe a 100 dry and 125+ wet. Will need fuel system upgrades or stand alone fuel system for wet shot.

2) an RPM based progressive system using an electronically controlled proportional valve similiar to whats inside the Venom kit. That would be used along side a single stage wet 100 shot. The reason for this is to keep Tq/cylinder pressure spikes in check while applying lots of nitrous as rpm increases. Should be able to adjust it on a dyno so you see 600 ft/lbs of Tq from 3000 rpm to 6500 rpm. This would be great for the type of racing that goes on around here. Lots of racing from a roll on a long bridge. Grab any gear at any time and get 600 ft/lbs on tap through the rpm range. No huge Tq spikes down low either. This will take some $$ and R&D.

3) Two stage dry/wet propane setup. Propane is high octane, doesnt require more fuel pump, is cheaper than race gas. One small bottle last a long time.

To go any higher than 625 rwhp or so with #1 or #2 will require some serious fuel system upgrades or stand alone fuel system for second stage wet.
number 1 and 2 the only one that will allow me to participate in sanctioned races I believe. But as far as practicality #3 is the cheapest and most practical. Im not much of a "racer" and there are very few events in the area to compete in. Mostly Runday Sunday heads up type grudge racing...not sanctioned. So the possibilties are endless.

All this is still up in the air. Any ideas, comments, criticisms are appreciated.

 

Nice ideas, I have a couple of questions for ya.

1)For the RPM based progressive unit you want a constant torque curve. Since torque curves drop as RPM increases you plan on adding nitrous as RPM increases instead of trying to time it through the run. How much does the torque curve drop from activation of the system to peak RPM while still on the system? If it takes you a 100 horse shot to make 600 rwtq at 3500 and you need another 150 shot to sustain the same torque at peak RPM you would end with a 250ish shot. All though you are talking about torque here and not horse power, so the shot would be smaller then those numbers I was talking about since nitrous puts out more torque then horsepower. This depends on which systems you use together to get this along with bottle pressures and nozzle types, right. Wet systems tend to torque peak more then dry systems in most cases. So would you mix the two to make this happen or just try and depend on one?

2. The propane system sound cool, it there a link to read more about it? Also does the pressure of the propane bottle have a big affect on power output like regular fuel?

3. Do you think your last cam hurt your motor run and didn't give you what you were looking for on the nitrous? I have heard that the benefits of a nitrous cam using anything less then a 300 shot is only worth a few horsepower which you inturn lose on the motor?

Thanks again and good luck with your new goals <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />