Purge not working
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Purge not working
Hey guys,
I built a switch panel for my nitrous switches. I originally had them on the panel under the steering wheel but moved them to under the climate control, so I had to lengthen all the wires for the purge, heater and arm switches. The board is almost done and my heater and arm switches appear to be working just fine but I can't get the purge to work now. Purge is wired independent of the heater and arm switches. The switch is getting right at 12v, so it definitely has power.
I will say that when I was taking switches off/on for a bit the other day I had a memory lapse and forgot to unhook my battery. I'm at a loss, unless my solenoid is shorted out...
What do you guys think? Here is a diagram in case it helps.
I built a switch panel for my nitrous switches. I originally had them on the panel under the steering wheel but moved them to under the climate control, so I had to lengthen all the wires for the purge, heater and arm switches. The board is almost done and my heater and arm switches appear to be working just fine but I can't get the purge to work now. Purge is wired independent of the heater and arm switches. The switch is getting right at 12v, so it definitely has power.
I will say that when I was taking switches off/on for a bit the other day I had a memory lapse and forgot to unhook my battery. I'm at a loss, unless my solenoid is shorted out...
What do you guys think? Here is a diagram in case it helps.
#6
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SE of Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is there power coming out of the switch? As has been stated, use a relay, unless the switch has a current rating that exceeds the current draw of the solenoid. Iirc, the small purge solenoid I have draws around 3-4 amps. Jumper the switch and see if the solenoid activates.
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I get a new solenoid, I will definitely be using a relay. The kit was originally installed by a shop so I would've thought they'd have used one. I meant to mention earlier that I had an extra push button switch and it didn't work either.
Forgive me for my electrical ignorance, what exactly does this mean?
Jumper the switch and see if the solenoid activates.
Trending Topics
#8
dont buy a new solenoid yet... just cut and strip the 2 wires coming out of yours (leave them long enough to re-attach) and run one to the positive terminal and one to negative and see if the solenoid clicks. if you dont hear anything its probably bad. its also possible some wiring could of burnt up and could be your problem, go right off the noid and see if its working or not.
#9
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: SE of Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I get a new solenoid, I will definitely be using a relay. The kit was originally installed by a shop so I would've thought they'd have used one. I meant to mention earlier that I had an extra push button switch and it didn't work either.
Forgive me for my electrical ignorance, what exactly does this mean?
Forgive me for my electrical ignorance, what exactly does this mean?
#10
Ls1tech & Truck Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
Did you mean to take that wire off the button to a 12v? I just noticed that.... You can send the solenoid into us and we can diagnose. Does the solenoid smell burned when you put it up to your nose? If so, the magnet is probably melted....
-Garrett
-Garrett
Last edited by NitrousExpress; 01-13-2014 at 05:14 PM.
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you mean to take that wire off the button to a 12v? I just noticed that....
Good news! I tested the solenoid tonight and it still works. So I guess the culprit is burnt wire somewhere? How would I be able to find it? I can post a diagram of an actual working setup tomorrow if needed
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, messed around with it a little tonight...
* Re-confirmed that the solenoid is still good condition - and it does still work when hooked directly to the battery.
*Checked connections to the ground at the switch as well as the connection to the battery on the driver's side - good there.
* Visually checked the wires and couldn't find anything burnt (thought I was using mostly black wire so it might've been hard to tell)
*If I hook my voltmeter up to the wires at the switch I'm getting power. However, if I jumper the wires, nothing happens.
WTF...I'm about to the point where I'm just going to re-wire the whole thing, but I don't want to do that and it still not work lol.
Could the wire be burnt at a section I can't see between the firewall and inside the dash? Seems kinda random, but I'm so stumped.
The only thing I can think of that is worth mentioning is that at one point tonight I pushed the button and it did click as if it were working but it wouldn't do it more than once. I have to jump my battery every day because its dead, so could it have something to do with my battery? I'm assuming not since I'm getting 12+ V.
* Re-confirmed that the solenoid is still good condition - and it does still work when hooked directly to the battery.
*Checked connections to the ground at the switch as well as the connection to the battery on the driver's side - good there.
* Visually checked the wires and couldn't find anything burnt (thought I was using mostly black wire so it might've been hard to tell)
*If I hook my voltmeter up to the wires at the switch I'm getting power. However, if I jumper the wires, nothing happens.
WTF...I'm about to the point where I'm just going to re-wire the whole thing, but I don't want to do that and it still not work lol.
Could the wire be burnt at a section I can't see between the firewall and inside the dash? Seems kinda random, but I'm so stumped.
The only thing I can think of that is worth mentioning is that at one point tonight I pushed the button and it did click as if it were working but it wouldn't do it more than once. I have to jump my battery every day because its dead, so could it have something to do with my battery? I'm assuming not since I'm getting 12+ V.
#18
use the wire that is already going to your purge to trigger a relay. then run a decent gauge wire with a fuse on it to the relay, then hook the + wire off your solenoid to the relay. i think the problem is all that wiring and the switch cant handle the amperage... with a relay it takes very little to kick it on. you might want to check what ever fuse it is your pulling the power for the purge from (if your not triggering it via ground) i had my purge hooked up kinda like yours and it kept popping one of my sensor fuses, then melted another one because it was too big. this can cause bigger problems need to get it right.
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First off, Thanks everyone for all your help! I feel like that has become way more complicated for me than it should be haha.
Ok, picked up a relay this afternoon and a fuse holder (got the wrong one though )
Attached is my crude wiring diagram. I feel like that is too many grounds though. Obviously there is something wrong, what is it?
Ok, picked up a relay this afternoon and a fuse holder (got the wrong one though )
Attached is my crude wiring diagram. I feel like that is too many grounds though. Obviously there is something wrong, what is it?
#20
replace the ground with the question mark on terminal 85 with a 12volt power source and it will work. you can crimp it into the same connector you use to hook up the 12v to the relay just make you a little jumper.