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I seriously suggest starting out with half of that, and working your way up. Spraying 200, I would back the timing down to 16* and work from there, reading the plugs. Find what that likes, add some nitrous, and pull more timing. Use a -9 plug as well.
Thanks I'm truly on a learning curve but feel I'm taking all the precautionary steps. Rings are gapped for a 400 shot (probably going to stick to no more than 300 as Im sure the motor will start becoming a cork around there) and cam's well designed for the spray on a set of TEA 706 heads. I'm referencing my wideband, fuel pressure, nitrous pressure and timing on my NCC-001 and using a LNC-2000 to pull timing, I feel the safety is there and Ill progress up from the 100 shot 50 at a time and read my plugs. I have sets of 7,8 & 9 heat range plugs, and I'll be logging my runs to see how things look. I've read a lot of the writeups and dealt with small shots of spray before. Just trying to grab info where I can.
Thanks I'm truly on a learning curve but feel I'm taking all the precautionary steps. Rings are gapped for a 400 shot (probably going to stick to no more than 300 as Im sure the motor will start becoming a cork around there) and cam's well designed for the spray on a set of TEA 706 heads. I'm referencing my wideband, fuel pressure, nitrous pressure and timing on my NCC-001 and using a LNC-2000 to pull timing, I feel the safety is there and Ill progress up from the 100 shot 50 at a time and read my plugs. I have sets of 7,8 & 9 heat range plugs, and I'll be logging my runs to see how things look. I've read a lot of the writeups and dealt with small shots of spray before. Just trying to grab info where I can.
Just remember that too much timing, and too much fuel is what kills the engine. Start conservative and work up on it. As far as a/f ratio is concerned, that can be subjective depending on where the sensor is in the pipe, and other things in general. I would use it just as a reference, and not necessarily a tuning tool.
How did this thread get to the end of page 1 and not once did someone tell this guy a poorly tuned 150 shot gets ugly "the supporting parts" melt easily on a 400 shot if you don't know what your doing.
First of all i would go ahead and put some more miles on it and really break that motor in before you go shooting nitrous through it. escpecially a 400 shot??? Even then i wouldnt shoot 400 off the bat... more than likely if you spray your motor with a 400 shot your very first time spraying it, somethings going to break. Nitrous can be great if you take it safe and slow, tune it right, and work your way up. But going straight to a 400 shot will not end good i can promise you that. You will have one hell of a pull though lol. Like everyone else said id start 200. that will handle fine no doubt. Then go 300 then 400 if you must.
No real need for breakin beyond a few heat cycles and changing the oil. We have broke motors in in the burnout box before a spray pass. I do agree with don't start on the 400 shot if you have never had anything close to that. start at 150 and go up 50 at a time it will show you what fuel and timming curves need to be that way.
No real need for breakin beyond a few heat cycles and changing the oil. We have broke motors in in the burnout box before a spray pass. I do agree with don't start on the 400 shot if you have never had anything close to that. start at 150 and go up 50 at a time it will show you what fuel and timming curves need to be that way.
A 150 can be really nasty . So can a 200. It's instant torque.
We sprayed a 200k junkyard 5.3 with a nitrous cam and rod bolts with a 325 on pump in the tank and 118 in a stand alone. We are going to find out what a 400 does on our 422.
the 2 degree rule sucks. it worked well for a few cars and a few years. but my current car on a 150 hit. took 11* to make it right. cause the car took alot of timing on motor and took fuel very well. anything over 150 id be careful and start with short hits and check and go from there.
02-20-2014, 05:28 PM
. So can a 200. It's instant torque. 
