LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion - Stock Cube LS1 6 Spd Nitrous Build

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Stock Cube LS1 6 Spd Nitrous Build

Ok guys, I need a little more guidance from those who are more experienced in LS nitrous builds. I tore down my cam only formula this winter knowing I had some kind of an internal issue and a slipping clutch. After tear down I discovered a couple valve retainers were broken and cam bearings were trashed. After pricing out rod bolts and flycutting the stock pistons I decided to forge the bottom end.

The engine is at the machine shop for machining and balancing; wiseco pistons, callies h beam rods, stock crank and stock block. 241 heads, Fast 102/92. G5x3 LG cam, Fast injectors and all typical supporting mods including monster stage 3 clutch, moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears, steel driveshaft, Borla exhaust with a cut out, hoosier QTP 27 inch tall tires, HP Tuners w/wideband, a Nitrous Outlet 102 plate kit and a nos mini progressive controller.

My goal is to get this car in the low 11's/high 10's N/A and 9's on spray with a limited budget. I have accomplished a little weight reduction this winter with abs, air/egr, sway bar, p/s cooler and A/C delete, PA k-member and QA1 shocks on four corners. I would like to drive the car on the street on nice days.

My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded? Should I even consider E85? What's the best way to activate the spray? Trigger through the tps or rpm? Would a stand alone be a requirement at this level or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit?
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7d008cee.jpg
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8fdae194.jpg

My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded?
How much PTV do you have? Compression under 12:1 is safe with a good tune on Fuel injection.

Should I even consider E85? Definitely if you have the fuel system to support it

What's the best way to activate the spray? A Controller that detects TPS and RPM

Is a stand alone a requirement or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit? It sure makes it easier since you can run c16 or other race fuel in it a gallon at a time and 93 in your regular tank.

I have the nos mini controller but thought the trigger method was an either/or not a both. Can I wire up both rpm and tps at same time then program it properly?

Quote:

Originally Posted by high impact (Post 18042936)

I have the nos mini controller but thought the trigger method was an either/or not a both. Can I wire up both rpm and tps at same time then program it properly?

Yes it has a TPS for the Wide open throttle activation and a rpm window switch built in. Is it a NOS15982?

Mini 2 stage progressive controller. Here's a pic

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psdhnqu1ml.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by high impact (Post 18043201)

Mini 2 stage progressive controller. Here's a pic

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psdhnqu1ml.jpg

Even better than the model I listed. Yes that will do both and progress the nitrous in if desired.

You can find the F-Body specific stand alone kits for a good deal. Might not necessarily be needed, but would be great insurance since you could run race fuel when spraying. Looking forward to seeing this build come together. I'm a M6 too and will be adding a plate kit here soon with a NOS Mini.

I have been so tempted to swap to an auto for drag racing but I love rowing the gears while driving on the street and love the overdrive. So torn...I am certain I could reach my goals with an auto, it's going to be a little more difficult with the 6 sod. I will see how it does this summer and if I am not happy I will swap next winter.

Nothing like rowing gears. Just get better with the stick and say fuck the auto. Just think how happy and proud you'll be if you do it with a stick.

You will always get respect for running a stick car.

Block, reciprocating assembly and heads are finally back from the machine shop. The reciprocating assembly has been balanced and is assembled with new GM main hardware. I am anticipating getting this engine together and back in the car. I need to figure out head gasket thickness. .036 will work out to 11.02 to 1 and .040 will work out to 10.88 to 1 compression. A little less than I wanted but not bad I guess. Head gaskets, lifters and oil pump need ordered yet.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...s2188d560.jpeg

ARP head studs

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc45b852.jpg

I'm in the process of ditching my 6speed for a auto and will miss rowing the gears.I have a no lift shift box i never got around to installing if you looking for one.

Will your budget not allow something better than the 241's? Not a crazy amount of money for a set of 243s, just asking.

Yes, a couple reasons: 243 heads are overrated and 241 heads are extremely underrated. With a little porting 241 are great heads. If I were to upgrade my heads it would be to an aftermarket head with a much thicker deck and that most likely isn't going to happen until I drop compression and boost. I already had the 241 heads and after porting, milling and a 5 angle valve job will work surprisingly well. They also are deceiving if I just happen to grudge a little. lol

Engine set in the car on my PA Racing tubular turbo k-member with solid stands.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psbbe435da.jpg

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...psdd072975.jpg

Subbed want to see this haul the mail.