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Stock Cube LS1 6 Spd Nitrous Build

 
Old 02-24-2014, 11:34 AM
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Default Stock Cube LS1 6 Spd Nitrous Build

Ok guys, I need a little more guidance from those who are more experienced in LS nitrous builds. I tore down my cam only formula this winter knowing I had some kind of an internal issue and a slipping clutch. After tear down I discovered a couple valve retainers were broken and cam bearings were trashed. After pricing out rod bolts and flycutting the stock pistons I decided to forge the bottom end.

The engine is at the machine shop for machining and balancing; wiseco pistons, callies h beam rods, stock crank and stock block. 241 heads, Fast 102/92. G5x3 LG cam, Fast injectors and all typical supporting mods including monster stage 3 clutch, moser 12 bolt with 3.73 gears, steel driveshaft, Borla exhaust with a cut out, hoosier QTP 27 inch tall tires, HP Tuners w/wideband, a Nitrous Outlet 102 plate kit and a nos mini progressive controller.

My goal is to get this car in the low 11's/high 10's N/A and 9's on spray with a limited budget. I have accomplished a little weight reduction this winter with abs, air/egr, sway bar, p/s cooler and A/C delete, PA k-member and QA1 shocks on four corners. I would like to drive the car on the street on nice days.

My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded? Should I even consider E85? What's the best way to activate the spray? Trigger through the tps or rpm? Would a stand alone be a requirement at this level or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit?


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Old 02-24-2014, 11:39 AM
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:47 AM
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My questions at this point are how much can I have the machine shop mill the 241 heads and how much compression can I safely run on premium unleaded?
How much PTV do you have? Compression under 12:1 is safe with a good tune on Fuel injection.

Should I even consider E85? Definitely if you have the fuel system to support it

What's the best way to activate the spray? A Controller that detects TPS and RPM

Is a stand alone a requirement or can I get away with a 255 or 320 pump and hotwire kit? It sure makes it easier since you can run c16 or other race fuel in it a gallon at a time and 93 in your regular tank.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:49 AM
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I have the nos mini controller but thought the trigger method was an either/or not a both. Can I wire up both rpm and tps at same time then program it properly?
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by high impact View Post
I have the nos mini controller but thought the trigger method was an either/or not a both. Can I wire up both rpm and tps at same time then program it properly?
Yes it has a TPS for the Wide open throttle activation and a rpm window switch built in. Is it a NOS15982?
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:27 PM
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Mini 2 stage progressive controller. Here's a pic

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Old 02-24-2014, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by high impact View Post
Mini 2 stage progressive controller. Here's a pic

Even better than the model I listed. Yes that will do both and progress the nitrous in if desired.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:06 PM
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You can find the F-Body specific stand alone kits for a good deal. Might not necessarily be needed, but would be great insurance since you could run race fuel when spraying. Looking forward to seeing this build come together. I'm a M6 too and will be adding a plate kit here soon with a NOS Mini.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:15 PM
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I have been so tempted to swap to an auto for drag racing but I love rowing the gears while driving on the street and love the overdrive. So torn...I am certain I could reach my goals with an auto, it's going to be a little more difficult with the 6 sod. I will see how it does this summer and if I am not happy I will swap next winter.
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:38 PM
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Nothing like rowing gears. Just get better with the stick and say **** the auto. Just think how happy and proud you'll be if you do it with a stick.
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:01 PM
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You will always get respect for running a stick car.
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:24 PM
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Block, reciprocating assembly and heads are finally back from the machine shop. The reciprocating assembly has been balanced and is assembled with new GM main hardware. I am anticipating getting this engine together and back in the car. I need to figure out head gasket thickness. .036 will work out to 11.02 to 1 and .040 will work out to 10.88 to 1 compression. A little less than I wanted but not bad I guess. Head gaskets, lifters and oil pump need ordered yet.




ARP head studs

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Old 03-27-2014, 05:28 PM
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Pistons are .003 in the hole

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Old 03-27-2014, 05:36 PM
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I'm in the process of ditching my 6speed for a auto and will miss rowing the gears.I have a no lift shift box i never got around to installing if you looking for one.
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Old 03-29-2014, 08:00 PM
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Will your budget not allow something better than the 241's? Not a crazy amount of money for a set of 243s, just asking.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:02 PM
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Yes, a couple reasons: 243 heads are overrated and 241 heads are extremely underrated. With a little porting 241 are great heads. If I were to upgrade my heads it would be to an aftermarket head with a much thicker deck and that most likely isn't going to happen until I drop compression and boost. I already had the 241 heads and after porting, milling and a 5 angle valve job will work surprisingly well. They also are deceiving if I just happen to grudge a little. lol
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:16 PM
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Finished porting the heads



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Old 04-06-2014, 10:21 PM
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Assembling the engine.



New LS7 lifters and LS2 trays


Torque heads


Assembled engine on the stand
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:24 PM
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Engine set in the car on my PA Racing tubular turbo k-member with solid stands.




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Old 04-06-2014, 10:52 PM
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Subbed want to see this haul the mail.
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