HELP... Nitrous warm up procedure in staging lanes
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HELP... Nitrous warm up procedure in staging lanes
I have a few questions i want to clarify, i am sure the info is already on here but i cant find it. I am running a single stage fogger on a LS1, Pro shot NOS solenoids. NOS bottle blanket.
When i warm my bottle in the trunk i put a stand alone gauge on the bottle so i could read the gauge and the pressure didnt go to the nitrous solenoid. When nearly ready i take the stand alone gauge off and reconnect the line, turn the bottle on and the pressure dropped from 950 PSI to 800 PSI just from filling the line
1. How do you guys warm your bottle and whats your procedure for keeping the pressure up in the staging lanes?
2. Is it safe to let the bottle pressure go against the NOS solenoid with the engine off while warming the bottle in the staging lanes?
3. Do you turn the bottle off and purge the lines down between runs or just turn the bottle off and leave the lines full? (I have been doing this but i waste a lot of nitrous)
Your help is greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance
When i warm my bottle in the trunk i put a stand alone gauge on the bottle so i could read the gauge and the pressure didnt go to the nitrous solenoid. When nearly ready i take the stand alone gauge off and reconnect the line, turn the bottle on and the pressure dropped from 950 PSI to 800 PSI just from filling the line
1. How do you guys warm your bottle and whats your procedure for keeping the pressure up in the staging lanes?
2. Is it safe to let the bottle pressure go against the NOS solenoid with the engine off while warming the bottle in the staging lanes?
3. Do you turn the bottle off and purge the lines down between runs or just turn the bottle off and leave the lines full? (I have been doing this but i waste a lot of nitrous)
Your help is greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance
#2
Ls1tech & Truck Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
A heater should be able to keep the pressure up pretty easily. If its not doing its job, the heater is either on its way out, or the bottle could be close to empty, then it will become hard to keep it pressurized. You can get a bottle pressure gauge and swivel manifold that will mount the gauge right off the bottle so you won't have to empty the lines everytime. It does not hurt the solenoids leaving pressure on them when in the pits and such, but for peace of mind I empty my lines if I know the car will be sitting for an extended period of time.
-Garrett
-Garrett
#3
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A heater should be able to keep the pressure up pretty easily. If its not doing its job, the heater is either on its way out, or the bottle could be close to empty, then it will become hard to keep it pressurized. You can get a bottle pressure gauge and swivel manifold that will mount the gauge right off the bottle so you won't have to empty the lines everytime. It does not hurt the solenoids leaving pressure on them when in the pits and such, but for peace of mind I empty my lines if I know the car will be sitting for an extended period of time.
-Garrett
-Garrett
Also not all bottle warmers are created equal. So if it is not getting to pressure it might be too small.
You can get a pressure switch that will turn the warmer off when it the pressure reaches a predetermined pressure.
Also if you have a AC source you can get warmers that are AC/DC. With these you can get the bottle to pressure in the pits then the DC just maintains the pressure in the lanes.
I know a company that makes the above mentioned items. If you PM me I can give you their name.
Good luck.
#4
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
I have a few questions i want to clarify, i am sure the info is already on here but i cant find it. I am running a single stage fogger on a LS1, Pro shot NOS solenoids. NOS bottle blanket.
When i warm my bottle in the trunk i put a stand alone gauge on the bottle so i could read the gauge and the pressure didnt go to the nitrous solenoid. When nearly ready i take the stand alone gauge off and reconnect the line, turn the bottle on and the pressure dropped from 950 PSI to 800 PSI just from filling the line
1. How do you guys warm your bottle and whats your procedure for keeping the pressure up in the staging lanes?
2. Is it safe to let the bottle pressure go against the NOS solenoid with the engine off while warming the bottle in the staging lanes?
3. Do you turn the bottle off and purge the lines down between runs or just turn the bottle off and leave the lines full? (I have been doing this but i waste a lot of nitrous)
Your help is greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance
When i warm my bottle in the trunk i put a stand alone gauge on the bottle so i could read the gauge and the pressure didnt go to the nitrous solenoid. When nearly ready i take the stand alone gauge off and reconnect the line, turn the bottle on and the pressure dropped from 950 PSI to 800 PSI just from filling the line
1. How do you guys warm your bottle and whats your procedure for keeping the pressure up in the staging lanes?
2. Is it safe to let the bottle pressure go against the NOS solenoid with the engine off while warming the bottle in the staging lanes?
3. Do you turn the bottle off and purge the lines down between runs or just turn the bottle off and leave the lines full? (I have been doing this but i waste a lot of nitrous)
Your help is greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance
You could try raising your bottle pressure initially to around 1050 to offset the pressure loss from filling the lines.
You can leave pressure against the solenoid as long as your pressure doesn't creep up really high which could dimple the piston and hurt the solenoid.
Between rounds I'm swapping bottles.
#5
TECH Resident
Or if you want to keep the setup like you have now you could add one of these in line a lot closer to the solenoids. Your pressure drop wont be as extreme if you heat the bottle and keep this closed.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/plumbin...ff-valves.html
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/plumbin...ff-valves.html
#6
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
Or if you want to keep the setup like you have now you could add one of these in line a lot closer to the solenoids. Your pressure drop wont be as extreme if you heat the bottle and keep this closed.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/plumbin...ff-valves.html
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/plumbin...ff-valves.html
#7
TECH Resident
OAN: I just ordered a purge kit from you guys. I still have to hook up the kit I bought but Im sure the purge will be the same quality I have come to expect from Nitrous Outlet.
Trending Topics
#9
i use the heated bracket bottle mount with pressure controlled switch. works great. i usually open botlle and turn heater on when they call my tire class, makes about 25 mins or so before a pass in the staging lanes. if its longer than an hour till next pass i shut down and close bottle. bracket heater is from nitrous outlet.
Last edited by JDEP162; 07-25-2014 at 03:45 PM.
#11
11 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: apoopka, fl
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All the "big names" in here and every one missed the real problem. Unless your bottle was empty, you didn't lose 150psi opening the valve. I don't lose that opening a -8 feed. You have a faulty gauge somewhere or your bottle was empty