AJ Dantzer

I have a little over 2k saved up and have been looking at either a cam swap and head work or a 150 shot (wet kit) from nitrous outlet. I have been quoted right at 1.5k for the nitrous kit but would like to know some personal opinions along with 1/4 and 1/8 times with cam or nitrous. It is a daily driver (automatic 4) with once in a while fun runs at my local 1/8 track. I have also thought about saving more and doing both. Just like to know some different opinions because I am tore between the two. Thanks.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

This is LS1 f-body I'm assuming?

billymz28

I say install the nitrous outlet kit for now then save for heads cam. you will get more gain out of the n20 and eaiser and faster to install dont really have to worry about car being down for install if you daily. I drove my c5 for 2 years just bolt ons and 150 shot hurt a lot of feelings with that setup. now cammed also.

AJ Dantzer

Yea it's a 2000 ls1 Trans am

And thanks billymz28! I appreciate your response.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Ultimately it's going to be cheaper to do it all together. If money is a concern here get a used nitrous kit along with a budget type head (maybe have your stockers ported) with a good n/a cam. This way you get it all done at once and it won't be as bad price wise

AJ Dantzer

Could you give a general estimate of all that? I have a friend that can port and polish heads for probably around half normal price.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Sure! A basic used nitrous kit would be maybe around $500. Cam and valve springs $500, then get your stockers ported by your buddy for probably less than $500. Of course you will need the proper supporting gear with the head, cam and nitrous. For around 2k you could get around another 200 hp

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

A new nx proton kit is only $400. That's what I have it works great.

98redorangeta

iTrader: (10)

If you dont have a fuel pump already you will probably need one on a 150 shot. If you are planning on a plate think about what you intake manifold plans are if you are going to a bigger set up soon you may want to wait. Over all I would vote for a 150 kit for the money

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

IMO first serious mod goes into the drivetrain, transmission, rear, driveshaft, tires, brakes, axles, lighter wheels.

First serious engine 'mod' is cleanliness- and it is nearly free spend some hours cleaning the engine with a pick, paper towels, brake cleaner, simple green, get it looking like new again. Do a tune up, papers, filters, plugs, that stuff.

picking up XXX horsepower is fun, but it runs against the longevity of the vehicle. It is like you are paying more $$ to run parts into the ground faster. That is why I recommend starting in the drivetrain, the money instead causes things to last longer. Depends of course, whether this is a daily single car, or a weekend toy. The toy obviously gets abused much harder because its fine if the engine blows up and the vehicle can sit for weeks or months.

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

If we are talking about heads/cam or nitrous I choose nitrous all day long. Heads/cam sacrifices drivability and gas mileage and you would be lucky to make 100 more hp with heads cam alone. You can't turn the cam off, but you can leave the nitrous off. It's waaaay less invasive with ease of installation and just as easy to remove and sell down the road if you end up with forced induction.

If your drivetrain and fuel system is stock you're going to be forced to address that soon anyway whether you decide to do heads/cam or nitrous. So I agree with kingtal0n above you're better off upgrading the parts that are known to break before they do. It's much more fun racing a car that is ready to handle the abuse than a car that is built with egg shells. Good luck!

WTF?

This.......1.5K for nitrous? WOW! For that price I would zip tie 5.3s in her, and pop one a year.

AJ Dantzer

Thank you guys for your input! Yes the nitrous outlet kit is 1,500 because it has a lnc controller, window switch, bottle heater, purge, literally everything I would ever need and I could use the same kit for a bigger shot in the future.

If I were to upgrade intake. What would you guys recommend? I've heard good and bad things about FAST so I don't really know much about them.

Ps I know I have to upgrade fuel pump and change spark plugs and run a higher octane for the nos.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

What intake do to have now OP?

Buzzardluck

An ls6 intake can be found at the 300$ range. Above that from my experience in what you are trying to do, i would hold out until I can get the entire cat Williams 102mm set up. I have been a huge fan of Texas Speed, you can call them and they can get you were you want to be.

VincesSS

iTrader: (1)

Dude, get a base nitrous kit from nitrous outlet or nx, a $20 gauge that mounts on the bottle valve, a dyno tune bottle heater and you can get the Inc to pull timing. You should be like $800. And you don't need a purge just go wide open a couple times during your burnout. The point of nitrous for simple street cars is CHEAP and FAST.

And fyi the proton flows 250hp so it can definitely grow with you. Mine went from 93 to 101mph in the 1/8 on 100hp and now it has 150 jets in it and it's a huge difference on the street.

jblankenship

iTrader: (5)

In this case, I think the best bang for the buck is a cam kit(cam only car), dyno tune and nitrous.

Get the nitrous outlet 78mm plate($600), with a purge($100), nos mini($200), and bottle heater($100).

Then look up how to build an IAT tricker box and when the car is being dyno'd have the tuner pull timing for the iat box. Then use the mini to activate the iat box. This is what I do and you should run mid 10's easily on a 150 hit.

This way you'll pick up 50+ from the cam and then add what you want at the track from the nitrous. With the nos mini progressing stock parts will hold up longer.

gesto

OP,

What are your currents mods? From your other posts it looks like you have ls6 heads, catback and stock exhaust manifolds. If that's true, I would start with headers, lid, 3600 stall, tune and good rear tires, noting the drive train and general cleaning and maintenance advices above, plus make sure your suspension and brakes are safe and you can hook. Those would greatly improve your dig times and still be streetable and reliable if done correctly.

I say all that being a guy who did nitrous before touching the engine, but mine is a dedicated drag car.

AJatNitrousOutlet

What all is currently done to your car and how much power are you making on motor?

AJ Dantzer

It is currently all stock except for SLP cat back exhaust.