BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I have the NOS 5177 kit. I used this on my previous car with good results. I actually installed it on my current car in March of this year, but never filled the bottle. I filled it yesterday and went out for a test run.....nothing. Tried again..nothing. So I turned the valve off, disconnected the line, and tried to test to see if the noids were operating. I had a buddy hold the WOT switch, I was in the car with the rpms at around 3500, and then armed the system..nothing. So I tried bypassing the FPSS and this didn't help either. I am lost because me and my friend that helped me hook it up tested the noids after the install and all was well, I don't know what could have happened. He is outta town so I'm screwed as far as help goes. There is a big cruise in in my town this weekend and I'm suppose to have some races being lined up as we speak. One being a newer Saleen, mods unknown, 00 or newer was what I was told, and no, I have no idea what years they were made if that's wrong.

I am really wanting the bottle as a back up if I start to get pulled on, anybody have any ideas? Thanks alot.

mikey1000rr

check your fuse,main power and ground at the noids and at the switch

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Already checked fuse, it's good. Have looked for loose connections, all seems well. I'm lost, I'm not that good when it comes to wiring anyhow. I just wish my buddy was home, I'm sure it would be simple for him. Thanks. Anymore suggestions?

Could someone refresh my memory on bypassing the FPSS, I might not have done that correctly when testing? I believe that I need to connect a wire to both terminals while leaving it all hooked up, this should simulate it having pressure correct?

3rdgenguy

iTrader: (1)

i wouldn't bypass the fuel pressure safety switch thats there for a reason.

3rdgenguy

iTrader: (1)

p.s if useing the safety switch from the old car did you take the shrader valve out of the fuel rail on the new car????

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I just bypass the FPSS to test, not when I run it. And yes, I took the schrader valve out. I double checked last nite, I was hoping that was what it was.

Checked all that I can think of, this sucks ***, I finally fill the bottle and I still can't use the spray

3rdgenguy

iTrader: (1)

do you have power to the solenoids? and is the arm switched powered up where did you get the power for the system? this and what did you use as the ground?

mikey1000rr

if you have a power tester check for power to noids if you do have power then put the tester to possitive side of the battery and check for ground to the noids.I hade the same problem and it was the ground to one of the noids and the ground to the fuel pressure

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Ok, I disconnected the hot wire to the noids from the relay and touched it directly to the battery. They fired! I DO have power going into the relay, but until someone get's here to give me an extra hand I can't check to see if the power is coming out. Thanks for all the help fellas, little by little I'm getting somewhere.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Got the power for the arming switch somewhere around the radio, and the ground from the light for the ashtray I believe. My buddy is the one that found the ground and power sources. We DID check to make sure it all worked after hooking it up, and it did, so this is why I am confused.

The arming switch has a light on it, and it lights up when I turn it on, so it is getting power and ground.

2001z

iTrader: (32)

i had a problem where the arming switch wasnt getting the whole 12 volts it has to be high 11s to get the noids to fire . check that out.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

You can check it by youself. Tape the wot throttle sw down, take a jumper wire and replace your low rpm pill (asuming you have a pill type ws) with a jumper wire. Now when you turn ign on you should hear noids click. If no noid click, you may hear the relay click? The relay will have a constant 12v (high amp side to feed noids) usually the orange wire #30 (heavier gauge), but set up like above all four wires should be hot. this is where a test light comes in handy. Probe the red #86 wire (your low amp activation 12v from activate sw), if this is good, move to it's conterpart the green #85 which is the ground that goes through your wot sw to ws and then ground. Now if you have 12v on each of these and noids still don't work you have a bad relay, or a bad wot sw (can bypass with a jumper wire) or a problem in ws or ground out of window sw. sounds a little confusing, but just take it one step at a time. If this doesn't solve it, we will continue diagnostics. Don't leave your key on for a extended time though. Think of the relay as just another toggle sw, except you use 12v to toggle internal sw which allows the power to go to noids. You can PM me if you want, or continue asking on the forum. Plenty of guys can help you figure this out. I hope I made some sense.
Robert

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Hey thanks for all the replies guys. I got it going around 7:30 this evening. What I did was ground the noids to a different source, take the power wire and directly touch it to the positive terminal on the battery. The noids fired!!! So then I put it all back together, bypassed the FPSS with a short piece of wire, and tried it with a buddy. It worked!! Next I had the FPSS wired up correctly, and it worked again. So I don't know why they wouldn't fire before. But it's all working perfect now.

For info to the race, check out the kill section