Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

What exactly determines how hard a dry kit will hit when it comes on? Does nozzle direction play a roll? What about how many nozzles or how many openings (in reference to the Halo kit)

BIRDONNOS

iTrader: (3)

depends on how much your spraying with the dry kit. i have a forged motor so i have hit it with 2 stages dry jetted at 250 total. 1st 100shot nos 5177 dual nozzles jetted at .32, in third gear it will break the street tires loose. 1st and second are no use on street tires as i run a ford 9 inch with 4.11s. in forth gear with just the second stage 150 single nozzle jetted at .63 it will break the tires loose. now with both stages on with the first stage coming on at wot and the second stage coming on at 3800rpm it will send the tires up in smoke from a roll in 4th. so i say it all depends on how much your spraying.
nozzle placement will change your overall a/f depending on the placement.

chris77

thats a good question man i dont know, but i have the 5177 kit and at first i was spraying a 75 and yes i felt it but not what i expected then i switched to a 100 shot and man what a difffrence the pulled like a ****.

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

Ultimately you are wanting all or as much of the nitrous to be mixed with the air in the airbox before passing through the MAF so you don't have a "stream" of nitrous going past the MAF wires on one side or the other correct?

If you have a "stream" going to one side or the other of the MAF wires it will cause a lean condition, where if you have it hitting the wires directly it might be a little rich or freeze or bend the wires, so making sure it is mixed will ensure your a/f's don't get out of whack right?

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

In another post someone said the closer to the maf the richer the a/f and the farther away the nozzle the leaner it will be when it first hits. What is the cause of this?

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

It will read colder closer and then you'll get a injector compansation for a bigger percieved amount of air. hope that makes sense as it is kinda short/quick. On the dry hitting not so hard it mostly has to do with the 5177 rating at the crank, a 75 shot is really about a 60rwhp shot, so don't blame it on the dry hit, just jet up till your happy with the neck snap.
Robert

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

OK here is something else I have been thinking about.

How would the car react if you had just one nozzle at the very middle front of the lid spraying a stream directly at the MAF vs. having a spray bar across the front of the lid with 10 small holes in it that would fan out the nitrous towards the MAF?

Would either way hit harder? Would one setup generate a lean condition over the other?

PREDATOR-Z

Nitrous shooting is relative to how well you tune your car for the amount that is shot.
Noid to jet distance should be short to minimize "delay" in effect (mine is only 4 inch).
You do not want to spray too close to the MAF, since the MAF wires will freeze and max out its output into an over rich condition. (also will damage MAF).
MAF reads change in air temperature going in.
So along with dry, you need to be able to monitor and adjust fuel/timing parameters in order to maximize its effect without endengering the motor.
But 100rwhp dry is the same as 100rwhp wet. Anyone saying otherwise just has no conception of what is really happening and has misconceptions.

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

Tuning the car is not a problem I just keep reading about lean spikes and nozzle direction and things like that and I am trying to figure everything out.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

The shorter the distance from the solenoid to the nozzle itself and the flow of juice determines how hard it hits. Hence why foggers tend to hit pretty good.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

You'll get a lean spike with wet or dry, as long as it's less than a second it's normal, and not to worry, unless it's super big. Nozzle set-up depends on kit, how many and whether it's straight shooters or 90* shooters and air box. Anywhere will work, but likely not optimum.
Robert

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=Bad Habit Bird]
How would the car react if you had just one nozzle at the very middle front of the lid spraying a stream directly at the MAF [QUOTE]


Mine is set up like that but I have it coming through the bottom of the fiter and aimed directly at the MAF.

It has cut a 1.34 60' at 3550 lbs. All Dry. It hits kinda hard

Bad Habit Bird

iTrader: (12)

How big of a shot are you running?

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

225 shot makes about 200 to the wheels.

1936FordPU

iTrader: (3)

Ive never gotten a lean spike with the old LT1 kits or Mustang kits..Dry kits that is.

Matt D

iTrader: (49)

Yeah, I thought you couldn't get a lean spike with dry kits? Maybe I was mis-informed.

ITSTOCK

iTrader: (1)

Switching my nozzle from premaf (spraying through the maf) to POST maf (after the maf, on a nitrous specific tune, supplying fuel via the tune, making it extra rich at the MAF, so the nitrous leans it out) made my dry kit hit an unbelieveable amount harder also.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Systems work differently. Lt1 systems don't use the MAF and PCM for supplying extra fuel, so it is faster. It also takes time for evaporating N2O to pull heat from the MAF wires, so that makes a difference on time too. Distance and strength of N2O stream in relation to the MAF wires will change the amount of time the MAF takes to react.