Nitrous doesn't activate from a launch
 

A very strange issue indeed. I have an NX wet kit @ a 150 shot but this really doesn't matter.

For some reason, whenever I launch or go from a 1st gear idle roll, my nitrous will not activate. Any other time, from a roll or a coasting in another gear, it'll work. My activation is taken from the wipers power in the inside fuse box to an activation switch + purge, to a push botton that I press with my left foot, to a WOT switch, and finally to the relay.

The only thing I can think of is the fact that I used a smaller gauge wire between the activation switch to the push button and the push button to the WOT switch. (used 16 gauge instead of 14). I have also taken out the lines to see if they would activate while the car was sitting still and it will (key on engine off)

I'm gunna rewire the push button tomorrow, but would that really be the solution?

Wierd....Really wierd.

Interested to see the answer to this one...

perhaps some electrical connection isnt all that tight, like a very important ground. Are you soldering any points or are you using a ton of insulated or noninsulated connectors?
You could also try selecting a different power point, perhaps there is something wrong with your wiper motor. 16 gauge cable should be enough IMO.

-Dan

I'm using all insulated connectors, no soldering. I'm going over all my connections again today while i have the car apart. Also, it turns out i used 18 gauge on the push button. I'll be replacing with 16 gauge since i have some today.

What other power supply should I use incase this is a wiper issue? I believe i have my bottle warmer switch running off the radio accessory fuse. I forgot the neccisary amperage I need for the nitrous switch!

Pull your seat forward a few clicks and test your wot switch @ wot is fully closed.
Ricky

Are you saying i just have a weak right leg? That would be the stupidest solution ever...i need to put it to the test!

That isn't it, nor is it the wire for the push button. Must be my power source....more experimenting later and I will post the results!

i will help you out if you got time tommorow- pm me- i will be installing derriks nitrous tommorow- hell you can help if you want :)

Has nothing do to with your weak legs. :jest: It has to do with people like to race their cars sitting in PIMP mode. Meaning all shretched out looking stupid in the car. You launch your body moves rearward and foot comes off the gas pedal just enough but you never know. that is what it means.

Not a stupid test just a test.
Ricky

Bringing this post back from the dead.... It is not my WOT switch, nor is it my activation wiring. I just rewired again today for the 3rd time and eliminated that extra push button. Now it's just as NX recommends wiring-wise. Still works from a roll, still works with the car off, ignition on with the lines disconnected. I switched my power source to an un-fused power source still in the inside fuse box, but it worked just the same on my wiper motor fuse.

All the wiring under the hood is done very well and secured in a very professional looking way as is the inside wiring. There is nothing pulling loose. All the crimp on connecters are tight and are in working order. I am confident that this isn't an electrical problem now because of how well it is done.

Could this be some sort of freak solenoid mechanical problem?

Help me plz guys....i look silly purging at the line and running a 13 flat @ 107 in a "nitrous fed" LS1 :(

i had a similar problem. It would only happen at the track when i would launch out of the hole. the nitrous wouldnt activate. then all of a sudden it would hit.

Turns out it was my F.P.S.S., for whatever reason it was cutting off the nitrous when i launched.

I bypassed it and fixed all the problems. Went back to cutting 1.40 60 foots. :)

FPSS IS TEH SUCK- take that shit out if you got one- otherwise find a differnt power source just to check if it continues the lets just remove everysingle wire and rewire the whole thing

I did that already! I have no FPSS...

This is like 900 bucks down the shitter :(

Sounds like you don't have enough amperage to the solenoids? Are you running a relay to power then controlling the relay. The other area would be where are you grounding the solenoids to?
Hawk :devil:

from what i can see, it ay be amperage due to bad battery/alternator...once your rolling at WOT, your voltage will spike, especially if your charging system is weak for some reason. However, that doesn't explain why it works when the car is not running...

SDB

Do you guys see why this is retarded now? SDB, I thought the very same thing. That's why i pulled out my lines to test that theory. It makes no sense at all

I do notice though, that at a roll my voltage stays above 13. I'd guess 14 or whatever the alternator issupposed to be churning. At the track waiting in the staging lanes, I'm usually at 13. I this pulling the line thing in the staging lanes too (they were putting VHT onto the track and taking their time)

do you have a first gear lockout installed just going out on a limb. It would make sense as to why your not getting 1st gear but what do i know i'm just really starting to get into the N2O setups and get a couple for myself.

nope...just a switch and a WOT microswitch to a relay