TomXTC

I am looking for suggestions for tuners in the Portland Oregon area and what I might be looking for as far as cost.

I have a 98 TA WS6. I had to do an emergency repair and at the same time am going to do a mild cam upgrade. Something like the Texas Speed 224R and LS7 lifters. Long story but had planned a one day rocker arm upgrade and it has turned in to needing lifters and perhaps the cam will have damage (have to take the heads off tomorrow). If so it won't cost me much more to upgrade to the cam and better lifters. I will just need to have a tune after. If I am getting soaked for a bunch of money I am hoping to at least get some power out of it.

I will need a tune after the cam change though and am wondering if anyone can suggest somewhere in the Portland area and the cost.

Thanks Much in advance.

SalvageZ28

iTrader: (4)

Wong's performance you wont have any regrets he's located in vancouver,wa 360-695-9433. If you want to make a lil more power on top of the cam throw a LS6 intake on it. I have one im selling Pm me if interested.

02sslayer

iTrader: (4)

wong is the only LS specific tuner in the area, if im not mistaken. there are other tuners but non that specilaize in chevys. and he has a good rep and does good work

CopMagnet

Wongs is the place to go.

TomXTC

Thanks I will check them out.

98goldz28

iTrader: (4)

TJ Wong is the man, you will not be disappointed.

TomXTC

Thanks, I tried calling today and he is out of office due to having a baby but should be back soon. I was told that a tune for my cam would run around 400 bucks. Sound about right?

The car is being fixed in Oregon City and as I understand it I can drive it to Vancouver even without the tune far enough to get there at least. Then get it really tuned.

I will have to find out about what I can get away with that won't throw out any emissions codes as in Washington State we have emissions testing every other year where they plug in the OBDII diagnostic port looking for emissions trouble codes.

If I have to I may be able to register it at a friends place in Eastern Washington where there are emissions waivers. When I read the Frost typical programming rear o2 sensor was on the list. I am sure he will know what to do but would like to squeeze out all the power I can for now until I get the money for more upgrades.

98goldz28

iTrader: (4)

I drove my heads/cam/intake camaro from Florence to Vancouver to have him tune it, you should be ok, I"m a M6 tho so that might have helped me a little bit. I would think you can make it from OC to Vancouver no problem.

TJ can delete any codes that you won't need anymore, like the rear o2's etc. You should not have any codes when you leave his shop

smokinponcho73

iTrader: (6)

Yeah Tom will delete all of the codes, I think the only problem with doing a cam swap would be if you get the sniffer test, even then with the right cam and tom doing the tune it won't be an issue. And unless you change the injectors you should be fine just don't mash on it until the tune, I know it will be hard but its just to be safe.

TomXTC

That is what someone else told me a long time ago but is on my mind. I am not removing cats or doing anything too bad and paying for premium gas and taxes so I really don't feel too bad. What am I going to do drive a Prius? I will recycle instead. Plus no batteries to throw away.

It is only Portland to Vancouver so I will drive like a granny until I get it tuned. I am looking forward to it though so your comment is certainly appropriate. First chance I get when the engine it tuned and warmed up I will see how much easier to is to roast the tires...a very scientific test indeed

The Frost general tune which says is to get by until you get the dyno tune sounds like it costs half as much as the full tune if the numbers I was given are correct. So driving it that far and not damaging anything is the way to go in my mind.

smokinponcho73

iTrader: (6)

Don't get a mail tune its a waste of time and money. Whoever created that tune doesn't know your car at all and I know they can get it close but there is a lot more than that. Just resist the temptation and take it easy on your way to toms.

TomXTC

The tune itself says right on it that it is to get the car driving and not to replace a dyno tune. So I suppose if you did some radical mod and had to drive it to get it tuned it might make more sense. For me just putting in a mild cam and stronger parts driving it there is the only option to do. Especially if it is the 400-450 bucks I was told by another member!

smokinponcho73

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I think that's what mine was is 450 and I did a radical swap, I went with a 408 243 heads an ms4 cam and full bolt ons. I drove it to Vancouver. The only thing I really wouldn't do is injectors without a tune well unless you go boost or spray or something.

wpe

That 224R cam is a small cam. You can easily drive it on the stock tune provided that the injectors are stock. No need to waste your money on a mail order start up tune. If you really feel that you need a start up tune, pull your PCM and bring it to my shop and I will flash a start up tune in it for you and I won't even charge you for it. But really, there is no need to do this. Just drive it and don't worry about it, the only thing that the PCM won't be happy about is idling.

TomXTC

Ok thanks much. This started as a rocker bearing upgrade and turned in to much more so timing and money is an issue. I will find out when the car will be done, when I have the money and when I can get it in for a tune but if that does not match up I live in Seattle and the car is in Portland so a temp flash might help under those circumstances.

98goldz28

iTrader: (4)

Like I said, I drove mine for a month or two before getting the dyno tune, the only thing that was a PITA was getting it to idle on cold start ups.

TomXTC

No other performance parts. It actually started with finding some rocker bearings and since I have to take so many things apart searching for both more bearings and damage they may have cause is the reason for these upgrades.

I plan in the future to install a Procharger but that is a ways down the road.
I will have to upgrade my transmission and rear end for that. This allows me to use my stock stuff for now and get a bit more power at the same time. The cam is not radical but it is more so than a LS1 or LS6 and my plan is to eventually make my power via a blower.

If for some reason I can't get the dyno tune in when I pick up the car though I will take up the generous offer from wpe for that starter tune while I am waiting for the full dyno tune. How can you beat that?

I am just not going to take chances having more bearings left in the motor and with all the things I am replacing with better parts it will for the most part be anywhere bearings could be hiding anyway. I also think that cam will work fine with the Prochcarger. Since it is a 98 they don't have a kit with injectors so I will be looking for the best deal on larger injectors and fuel pump and then get another dyno tune. Also get a 4L80E (not sure where yet) and had been thinking of going with a 12 bolt but may go with a S60 instead, both from Strange. Also now considering going with some other wheels. Some staggered types, I think the car will also look better with larger rears since there is a rather large gap in the wheel well IMO. Plus typical suspension mods oriented towards road racing rather than drag racing. That is the long term plan. Just fixing things and making them stronger and improving the oiling is my main goal now, the cam will just make the cost for this a bit less painful as I will at least get a bit more power than stock. I had only planned to do the rocker bearings right now and it turned in to far more which is why I am not financially prepared.

I don't know how much value the used parts will have but will try to sell them. I don't know who would want a stock cam or lifters (assuming they check out good) but I am sure the tranny and rear are worth something, particularly since my car has only 40K on it right now.