DrEvyl

iTrader: (5)

So, I'm getting to the point where I'm wrapping up on making my car look nice, and all the basic stuff I wanted to improve is getting close to being done. The suspension is worked out.. all the appearance stuff is covered.

Now it's time to start making it go faster.... I wanna get the car deep into the 12's at the least... but for starters I'm just trying to get over that 13 second hump. Right now it typically runs 13.4s... with a best time of 13.333 @ 105.8 mph.

So I'm thinking about where the best place to start would be... I'd like to at least get the car running 12's before biting the bullet on a 12-bolt and converter... but I have that planned.

Right now the drivetrain of the car is completely, 100% bone stock, other than 3.42 gears (with some upgrades on the 10-bolt), and a Dynomax muffler.

Any recommendations on what to do first, and low budget ways to get the car into the 12's?

Rokko

iTrader: (2)

intake and exhaust, get the air in and out as easily as you can is a good start. lid, ported tb, headers, y-pipe, catback.

juice is the best bang for the buck, but your motors got a lot of mileage.

converters are supposed to be worth .3 to .7 depending on your set up.

Ryan K

iTrader: (11)

Headman Headers and y-pipe=Bang for the Buck $400
MTI Airlid/K&N Filter $120
LS6 Intake $350ish

High 12's

Add Yank SS3600 converter. Low 12's

Ryan

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

What Rick said....I'll add some details of what worked for me & what I gained.

Headers & cat-back: 40hp & 2-3/10ths
MAF ends: unkown hp & .25/10ths
Tires: my car runs 1-2/10ths faster with QTPs vs. street tires

Suspension & Tuning: never added up the numbers, but it seems to make everything a little better & I haven't broken anything (yet!)

This should get you into the 12.75 range.

The converter IS the best thing you can do. But with a 10 bolt, I think I'd try other things first. IMO QTPs would help your 10 bolt live longer (with a stock stall). Simply because you'd get 0 tire spin & therefore 0 wheel hop. (less shock on the gear faces)

DrEvyl

iTrader: (5)

I'll actually be running the Raptor intake that goes with my hood, so I won't need an aftermarket lid. Only reason I'm looking for one now is because I need something to tie me over until I have budget to replace the current one.

DrEvyl

iTrader: (5)

I'm gonna try a set of those new Mickey Thompson E/T Street radials.... never really had wheel hop problems so far.

I am keeping the stock MAF, too... I know it's good for ~450 hp or so... makes tuning a little easier.


So do you think a catback will gain me that much considering I'm already running the Dynomax?

WAHUSKER

iTrader: (4)

DynoMax is supposed to flow pretty well, so just headers should be good.

And yes, the stock MAF is good for 450hp. I know, I've heard it too. What I'm saying is a set of MAF ends will make your car faster without giving you all the headaches. It's the electronics that screws up the PCM, not the increase in airflow. I did back to back runs at Bremerton and with the factory electronics, my car ran 13.25 with ported MAF ends, and 13.50 with the stock ends. Jon had similar results. And monitoring real data with the Predator my car flowed 5% more air at 5k in 3rd gear.

Rokko

iTrader: (2)

I don't think it's so much the muffler as it is the increase in pipe diameter and getting rid of that flattened pos stock y-pipe.

Todd2001SS

Continue with SHOWING the car, lol.!

DrEvyl

iTrader: (5)

I definitely plan to show the car.. that's why I'm doing the cosmetic stuff first. I've still got a long way to go, but I'm getting there little by little.