removing rear hatch and smooth hatch *updated*
09-14-2011, 10:15 PM
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removing rear hatch and smooth hatch *updated* TO REMOVE HATCH:
-pop hatch
-unscrew the four nuts on the hatch side of the hinge, they are 13mm and mine came off one handed with a wrench – do NOT lift UP yet
-this will allow your hatch to still sit inside the hinges supported but loose ( may want to mark where they were lined up, usually a rust/dirt line)
-support with extra supports for removal of hatch shocks
-remove headliner, had mine off but may be able to access area by just loosening the back half of the headliner
-this will show you the wiring that leads from the top of the hatch into the rubber coupler into the roof under the sail panel; pop coupler out of each end (can be pushed back in easy so no worries)
-there is a black clip and a ground screw, remove and bend vertically with the hole so they can be easily lifted out without tugging
-or if you don’t care or want to shorten wires just cut them and re-connect later
- then remove the clips on the hatch end of the shocks, simple flat screwdriver works best, loosen so there's a good ¼” gap or take out while supporting with your shoulder, and push/pull the shock out of the ball joint
-support on board for one side, remove other side shock, add support again, mine kept falling but cut angled 1 x 3's and supported from back lip of tail light to the square patches
-lift hatch up vertically, be aware of the top of the glass under the sail pan at this angle, bolts will lift out of the hinges and pull wires through
-don’t twist it too much! Best with two people on each side, I removed hatch tail for weight loss and for easier access for the next mod…
-pop hatch
-unscrew the four nuts on the hatch side of the hinge, they are 13mm and mine came off one handed with a wrench – do NOT lift UP yet
-this will allow your hatch to still sit inside the hinges supported but loose ( may want to mark where they were lined up, usually a rust/dirt line)
-support with extra supports for removal of hatch shocks
-remove headliner, had mine off but may be able to access area by just loosening the back half of the headliner
-this will show you the wiring that leads from the top of the hatch into the rubber coupler into the roof under the sail panel; pop coupler out of each end (can be pushed back in easy so no worries)
-there is a black clip and a ground screw, remove and bend vertically with the hole so they can be easily lifted out without tugging
-or if you don’t care or want to shorten wires just cut them and re-connect later
- then remove the clips on the hatch end of the shocks, simple flat screwdriver works best, loosen so there's a good ¼” gap or take out while supporting with your shoulder, and push/pull the shock out of the ball joint
-support on board for one side, remove other side shock, add support again, mine kept falling but cut angled 1 x 3's and supported from back lip of tail light to the square patches
-lift hatch up vertically, be aware of the top of the glass under the sail pan at this angle, bolts will lift out of the hinges and pull wires through
-don’t twist it too much! Best with two people on each side, I removed hatch tail for weight loss and for easier access for the next mod…
Last edited by rabbit320; 09-20-2011 at 07:50 PM.
09-14-2011, 10:19 PM
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now for the best part...
SMOOTH HATCH:
*going for a throwback look with the car, piece by piece trying to include styles from previous generations; i wanted to give it that stamped metal look. this included removing the hatch plastic and filling in 99% of the holes left
holes were sanded with a file and or sandpaper, bondo hair (longhair) filler was used for large holes, then bondo glass (short hair), then body filler. ratio of red hardener is different for each! (reminding myself
) used a 50 grit with machine for longhair, then medium grit. used 70 grit by hand then medium foam block for the rest; same with body filler for top coat. also used a thin rubber 3m sanding pad, works great and cheap! + sticky sandpaper = win. last pic is of the curve where the hole is right on the edge of the "cliff"
will be primed and sanded with 300, then sprayed satin black.
(this is my practice run before i go flush my ebay superhawk hood, thread in app & detail section)
SMOOTH HATCH:
*going for a throwback look with the car, piece by piece trying to include styles from previous generations; i wanted to give it that stamped metal look. this included removing the hatch plastic and filling in 99% of the holes left
holes were sanded with a file and or sandpaper, bondo hair (longhair) filler was used for large holes, then bondo glass (short hair), then body filler. ratio of red hardener is different for each! (reminding myself
) used a 50 grit with machine for longhair, then medium grit. used 70 grit by hand then medium foam block for the rest; same with body filler for top coat. also used a thin rubber 3m sanding pad, works great and cheap! + sticky sandpaper = win. last pic is of the curve where the hole is right on the edge of the "cliff"will be primed and sanded with 300, then sprayed satin black.
(this is my practice run before i go flush my ebay superhawk hood, thread in app & detail section)
Last edited by rabbit320; 09-14-2011 at 10:27 PM.
09-14-2011, 10:23 PM
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wire for third brake light was also hidden, fished through the double layers of the frame of the hatch. if you drill too deep it will scratch the border of black off of the glass, leaving a clear-ish mark, this was painted with a scratch pen. fishing was a pain in the @$$!!! by the elbow of the hatch frame is where its easiest to fish the wires thru both parts, but required i cut and reconnect the pin connector to get it to fit thru.
rubber coupler was conditioned.
connector to take off the wing / thrid brake light is sitting right at a nice access hole at the back driver side corner of the hatch, the only hole not covered up, i may make a small access panel for it, or just leave it.
tempted to flush out the square holes next to it, fill in and level out, good place for tweeters or a nice emblem...
rubber coupler was conditioned.
connector to take off the wing / thrid brake light is sitting right at a nice access hole at the back driver side corner of the hatch, the only hole not covered up, i may make a small access panel for it, or just leave it.
tempted to flush out the square holes next to it, fill in and level out, good place for tweeters or a nice emblem...
enjoy
09-20-2011, 07:54 PM
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pics of final product with rain channels painted as well...
done with a rattle can, used "trim paint", no matter how much you spray it wont give tiger stripes or rattled look
done with a rattle can, used "trim paint", no matter how much you spray it wont give tiger stripes or rattled look
