need help on painting my engine bay
02-21-2012, 09:58 PM
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need help on painting my engine bay What kind of prep work am I looking at? And I'm painting it gloss black... is there anything I need to know before I start this? I have motor and Tranny and radiator out of the engine bay
02-21-2012, 10:41 PM
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well first clean it make sure you take all the dirt out and don't use oil based products. sand down the whole engine bay and rust spots. apply fiber glass where needed I don't know the condition of your bay etc.. then paint it. not much too it.
02-21-2012, 11:38 PM
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Honestly, as long as there isn't any rust or chips, you only need to use a wet scuff pad, sanding is unneccesary for an already basically prepped surface. Also make sure it is degreased/clean of any oils before shooting paint.
02-22-2012, 01:21 AM
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id still sand the whole bay with 400 grit to make the surface applicable from old paint and what not id rather play it safe than sorry do it right the first time lol i dont know about you but i dont like to half *** things lol
02-22-2012, 01:55 AM
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I bought simple green... not sure if I will use that to clean things up or what but here are pics of my engine bay as of right now, I will buy the supplies tomorrow:
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02-22-2012, 12:58 PM
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For a awesome job Ya better take the engine harness & everything out Get some rust converter for around the battery tray I would use satin or semi gloss under your hood Prep solve is what you use to wipe everything down Sand the **** out of all metal , prep solve & paint
02-22-2012, 01:03 PM
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Sweet thanks... that goes to everyone btw... I'm going in to buy the paint and materials right now... I'm also rattle canning my entire car flat black so this should be a fun process
02-25-2012, 03:36 PM
#12
I'm doing the same thing right now. If you go with aerosol use the enamel line from duPilcolor or rustoleum . There normal etching primer, filler primer won't handle the engine bay heat. I know for a fact some get away with it but have also seen a couple have cracks or chipps.
Clean clean clean, after you clean you only need to take off the clear coat, the oem primer and paint is good surface to work on. This only need 320 or a red scotch Brits pad. After this wash again and wipe down with alcohol/water . From here if the bay looks smooth enough no dents, holes , rust , etc you can move on. Some just paint over the oem paint or primer. Others spray primer over the entire bay. Up to you . When you do your painting understand the "cure" process. Some like to wait 15-30 between coats. And you can sand the primer/paint/Clear Stages as you go with 2000 grit (wet)
I had to use body filler and por-15 because I welded , fix rust, etc. I'm using por-15 on rusted spots and simple evercoat rage filler on the really bad un eneven surfaces. I'm also using aresol (Duplicolor enamel line) I'm not done with mine. But took advice from alot of people who do this . Don't worry about aerosol cans. With good prep the come out great and last long.
Clean clean clean, after you clean you only need to take off the clear coat, the oem primer and paint is good surface to work on. This only need 320 or a red scotch Brits pad. After this wash again and wipe down with alcohol/water . From here if the bay looks smooth enough no dents, holes , rust , etc you can move on. Some just paint over the oem paint or primer. Others spray primer over the entire bay. Up to you . When you do your painting understand the "cure" process. Some like to wait 15-30 between coats. And you can sand the primer/paint/Clear Stages as you go with 2000 grit (wet)
I had to use body filler and por-15 because I welded , fix rust, etc. I'm using por-15 on rusted spots and simple evercoat rage filler on the really bad un eneven surfaces. I'm also using aresol (Duplicolor enamel line) I'm not done with mine. But took advice from alot of people who do this . Don't worry about aerosol cans. With good prep the come out great and last long.
02-25-2012, 05:00 PM
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I'm doing the same thing right now. If you go with aerosol use the enamel line from duPilcolor or rustoleum . There normal etching primer, filler primer won't handle the engine bay heat. I know for a fact some get away with it but have also seen a couple have cracks or chipps.
Clean clean clean, after you clean you only need to take off the clear coat, the oem primer and paint is good surface to work on. This only need 320 or a red scotch Brits pad. After this wash again and wipe down with alcohol/water . From here if the bay looks smooth enough no dents, holes , rust , etc you can move on. Some just paint over the oem paint or primer. Others spray primer over the entire bay. Up to you . When you do your painting understand the "cure" process. Some like to wait 15-30 between coats. And you can sand the primer/paint/Clear Stages as you go with 2000 grit (wet)
I had to use body filler and por-15 because I welded , fix rust, etc. I'm using por-15 on rusted spots and simple evercoat rage filler on the really bad un eneven surfaces. I'm also using aresol (Duplicolor enamel line) I'm not done with mine. But took advice from alot of people who do this . Don't worry about aerosol cans. With good prep the come out great and last long.
Clean clean clean, after you clean you only need to take off the clear coat, the oem primer and paint is good surface to work on. This only need 320 or a red scotch Brits pad. After this wash again and wipe down with alcohol/water . From here if the bay looks smooth enough no dents, holes , rust , etc you can move on. Some just paint over the oem paint or primer. Others spray primer over the entire bay. Up to you . When you do your painting understand the "cure" process. Some like to wait 15-30 between coats. And you can sand the primer/paint/Clear Stages as you go with 2000 grit (wet)
I had to use body filler and por-15 because I welded , fix rust, etc. I'm using por-15 on rusted spots and simple evercoat rage filler on the really bad un eneven surfaces. I'm also using aresol (Duplicolor enamel line) I'm not done with mine. But took advice from alot of people who do this . Don't worry about aerosol cans. With good prep the come out great and last long.
02-25-2012, 06:25 PM
#14
If you can see metal you will have to lay some primer /sealer/ something.
Por-15 is what I will use to treat rust. I try to take off the most I can and then add it. Be very carefull with this stuff. Use gloves, clean the top when down or next time the can might not open. Lol . My buddys tell me this stuff is super good and strong
Not sure since your painting black on a white ground I would think atleast one full to 2 cans of base coat and two of clear. I say two because for sure around one can. Now clear is different I would think one but my cousin actually can spray 2 1/2 cans . !!! Lol. Read carefully how they suggest spraying the coats. Some have rules that if you wait more then 20-30 minutes to add a coat you must let it cure for a certain amount of hrs. So check what brand your using for proper spraying.
So I would say 2 of base coat and 1 of clear . Remember I recomend the enamel line of aerosol cans. Like I mention some get away with normal etching and filler primer but I have seen the crack and chip plus the manufactures even say not to do it. Stick with the enamel line.
Por-15 is what I will use to treat rust. I try to take off the most I can and then add it. Be very carefull with this stuff. Use gloves, clean the top when down or next time the can might not open. Lol . My buddys tell me this stuff is super good and strong
Not sure since your painting black on a white ground I would think atleast one full to 2 cans of base coat and two of clear. I say two because for sure around one can. Now clear is different I would think one but my cousin actually can spray 2 1/2 cans . !!! Lol. Read carefully how they suggest spraying the coats. Some have rules that if you wait more then 20-30 minutes to add a coat you must let it cure for a certain amount of hrs. So check what brand your using for proper spraying.
So I would say 2 of base coat and 1 of clear . Remember I recomend the enamel line of aerosol cans. Like I mention some get away with normal etching and filler primer but I have seen the crack and chip plus the manufactures even say not to do it. Stick with the enamel line.
02-25-2012, 07:26 PM
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If you can see metal you will have to lay some primer /sealer/ something.
Por-15 is what I will use to treat rust. I try to take off the most I can and then add it. Be very carefull with this stuff. Use gloves, clean the top when down or next time the can might not open. Lol . My buddys tell me this stuff is super good and strong
Not sure since your painting black on a white ground I would think atleast one full to 2 cans of base coat and two of clear. I say two because for sure around one can. Now clear is different I would think one but my cousin actually can spray 2 1/2 cans . !!! Lol. Read carefully how they suggest spraying the coats. Some have rules that if you wait more then 20-30 minutes to add a coat you must let it cure for a certain amount of hrs. So check what brand your using for proper spraying.
So I would say 2 of base coat and 1 of clear . Remember I recomend the enamel line of aerosol cans. Like I mention some get away with normal etching and filler primer but I have seen the crack and chip plus the manufactures even say not to do it. Stick with the enamel line.
Por-15 is what I will use to treat rust. I try to take off the most I can and then add it. Be very carefull with this stuff. Use gloves, clean the top when down or next time the can might not open. Lol . My buddys tell me this stuff is super good and strong
Not sure since your painting black on a white ground I would think atleast one full to 2 cans of base coat and two of clear. I say two because for sure around one can. Now clear is different I would think one but my cousin actually can spray 2 1/2 cans . !!! Lol. Read carefully how they suggest spraying the coats. Some have rules that if you wait more then 20-30 minutes to add a coat you must let it cure for a certain amount of hrs. So check what brand your using for proper spraying.
So I would say 2 of base coat and 1 of clear . Remember I recomend the enamel line of aerosol cans. Like I mention some get away with normal etching and filler primer but I have seen the crack and chip plus the manufactures even say not to do it. Stick with the enamel line.
06-12-2012, 10:05 AM
#20
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Looking good.