Door Hinge Reapir Kit - Dorman vs. Total Automotive
 

With the recent posted video of how to rebuilt our hinges I'm going for it. I not only want to replace the roller and pin, but the 2 pins & bushings on each hinge also.

Dorman makes a super cheap kit, $15 per door.
Total Automotives kit is $75.00 per door!

I do want quality and not having to do this again! Is there any real difference or benefit with Total Automotive kit?

Their bolt in kit it good BUT that top down kit/total auto is the best kit out there.

So Total Solutions is worth the extra dough? Thanks, I'll probably end up spending the extra cash.

luckily the main bushings and pins on my hinges were in good shape, the doors were tight and not sagging, just the awful creaking noise from the detent roller so that was all I changed in the video

I probably dont need to change all those bushings (8 of them in total), but I'm going to anyway. I just ordered 2 sets.

I have a complete set of spare hinges, I'm going to disassemble all 4, sandblast them clean, then professionally painted Black and cleared, by my auto paint shop. Yes, Black hinges on a red Firehawk!

Lastly, I'll replace all the bushings, pins, rollers and springs with all new parts from Total Automotive. Then swap out my originals for the rebuilt hinges.

Which set did you actually end up going with?

dorman is shit stay away

I spent the extra money, and went with Total Automotive's kit. It should be here next week.



Came to the same conclusion based on how cheap they are to buy.

$75.00 per door....what a rip off. Its the same parts as the Doorman kit.
http://www.hingekits.com/search/Pont...ebird/2%20Door
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Looks identical to the kit from Doorman...they are probably made at the same manufacturer for both companies. Who knows.....

Doorman can sell their kits much cheaper than other companies because they have a seriously large company.

Doorman is all you need for the top hinges. Metal is metal, they will last for 15 years easy.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Hinge-...72.m2749.l2649


New pin and roller........$35.00 both doors.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/93-02-Camar...FU5qxB&vxp=mtr

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They are somewhat the same but also include the pins being drille out with a grease zerk installed to directly grease the bushing instead of just spraying it with wd40 when it squeaks. alot better and well worth the extra imo.
The options for the truck doors are well worth it as well.

The factory pins are not greasable and they don't squeak. After many many years....but hit'em with spray and its fixed.

Someone posted that the greased pins don't fit very well.....and you cannot get a grease gun hose to connect to it while they are installed....

I was going to get the greasable ones until I read that.

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Ive used them. You can grease them. Not with a std hard line but the flexible tube makes it easy. There are so many different attachments for grease guns you can nearly grease a fitting behind your back.
The factory bushings will gall and crack and break or will squeak. Adding that grease in there helps alot.

I'm in the process of disassembling my spare hinges, and have all the new parts to rebuilt. I'm using the pin & bushing sets from Total Automotive, and their pin & roller replacement parts also.

My q: What about the roller Arm and it's pin/bushing? Not TA, nor Dorman or anyone else I've seen make a replacement for these. I see them for older f-bodies and but our 4th gens.

never had good service from the replacement rollers
 

I tried alot of brands of roller pins and they usually last a couple of years. the problem being theres no way to lubricate them with anything but oil. i finally broke down and made my own from a long bolt the same diameter as the hole in the hinge, double nutted at the top to hold the pin in place. i drilled a hole in the hex end of the big bolt and tapped it for 3/8 or 5/16 thread(cant remember). I screwed a small hex bolt in the end of the large bolt as the shaft for the roller. i made the roller out of a small peice of thick wall tubing with the same inside diameter as the od of the small bolt. drilled and installed a grease fitting in the hex head of the small bolt for lubrication. small hex bolt will need to be cross drilled to allow grease to flow inside tubing. its been on there for about 6 years now with no signs of wear. i grease it a couple of times a year. this is on a 77 el camino.

my solution to the roller is to replace the pressed in pin and bushing with new GM pin and a sealed roller bearing.smooth as butter now

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...0c62ebd7a0.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...83969a11f7.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech...753d31eac7.jpg

Here's an update on my hinge rebuilding project. My spare set of hinges have been disassembled, sandblaster clean of old paint and rust, primed and re-assembled. All parts are from Total Automotive.

You'll notice I didn't replace the long pin, but instead just the small pin and roller.

The driver side lower hinge isn't assembled yet, that's because one of the bushing holes was worn enough so the new bushing wasn't as snug. TA is sending me a slightly larger bushing for that hole. It's no surprise that this happens on the driver side hinges.

They will be primed again and painted Gloss Black. Enjoy the pics.

Are the part numbers used to repair/rebuild the hinges the same from 1993-2002? GM Parts Direct says the part numbers listed here aren't compatible with my '94.

I used Total Automotive parts, and did more than just the roller and pin shown in the how to video.

I'd call total automotive and ask, they know their stuff and friendly to talk to about compatibility.

Thanks.

This may have not been the best thread for my question, but it was recently active. My drivers side door sounds like it's going to explode, or tear off the car etc. when opening and closing. Based upon what little I've read thus far, I think I only need to replace the roller and pin on the lower hinge. I don't believe any of my hinges need to be completely rebuilt, at least not yet. I don't believe I have any sag etc.

It's not that big of a deal to re-build them completely like I did. I say if your going to do it, do it right. No need to sandblast and re-paint, I'm just crazy enough to do the extra work.

I bet anything your top and lower hinge have play, possible roller too. Our drivers doors are ALWAYS being used, unlike the pass for most.

Grinding down and popping out the old pins/bushings, then install new ones, along with the new roller/pin. Do top and bottom hinge, and your door should be good as new.

Can buy a spare set of drivers hinges, or if you have down time now, remove yours and go to town.